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Re-Done Sub Box!!!

Joined
10 July 2004
Messages
734
Location
Planet Earth.
I just finished the install into a '95, MalibuRappers car. Perfect fit! BASS Sounds unbelievable!! He is using JL 10W3v2.

It fits in over the carpet!! You just put a slit at the crease at the floor. Do not cut the carpet out completely, unless you want to. :confused:

Re-designed the construction of the box. The new size with water test at .68 cu ft. :biggrin: :biggrin: Improved the construction over the prototype. The face is 4 layers of 17 oz. Pro-Cloth w/ 3/4 oz. matt sewn into it. The body is 4-5 layers of 2 oz. matt.

I will supply hardened steel floating nut plates with Allen head bolts, so no screws are being held into the fiberglass.
If you order pre fit, I will drill and set hardend steel floating nut plates to fit your speaker, or I will supply one.

Due to the amount of time each box takes, the price has to be adjusted.


The time it takes to do this is outrageous!! I have designed a very large box, with no extra lost space, compaired to other boxes I have seen. I have put every effort into making a first class, quality product. Ask MalibuRapper what he thinks of the quality and fit of the box. I apologize for the increase, but it takes alot of time.

The price list is as follows.

OPTION 1
Box done with basic hole cut to fit a 8 or a 10, supply nut plates, and Allen Head bolts, you drill and Epoxy them into place, is $350.00

OPTION 2
If I drill and Epoxy them into place, and set your speaker into it $400.00

OPTION 3
If I make cover plate to flush out, and set speaker $450.00

OPTION 4
If you order with me suppling JL10W1v2, drilled, set-up, with cover plate and grill $550.00

PLEASE specify what number you want to order, makes it MUCH easier for me. :biggrin:

Orders filled on a first come first serve basis.
See new pics!!!
 

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CDX_NSX said:
zetoolman, any chance that we can meet up so that I can check it out?

Sure, but MalibeRapper has the new box. I am installing the prototype back into the '91, wich works awesome! I am making more now. Email me with contact info.
 
My hats off to zetoolman. This box is nothing short of a work of art. The craftsmanship is second to none. Honestly, the box fits so well that it gives you the feeling like it's become part of the structural integrity of the car. Trust me, I've seen some amazing fiberglass work and this is as good as anything I've ever seen. When I saw the finish of the box face, I was at a loss for words.

The face with the 4 layers of the exotic fiberglass is stronger than I could have ever imagined. He put in floating nuts which I've never used before and they are so much better than tee nuts because the play that they give.

I'll be honest with you, if I had known the quality would be this good, I would have willingly paid twice the price for this box and it would have been a good deal. There is no shop that comes to mind that would go through the effort that he did to achieve this level of perfection. You can see the endless hours that he put into squeezing the box into every last nook and cranny. It made the Buzz box look like the proverbial square peg in the round hole.

My car is a 95 with the EPS computer moved right beneath the glovebox. The box slid in and fit perfectly. 95+ cars will have to use this same trick to move the EPS computer and the mounting brackets. Once that is done, the box will squeeze in and make you wonder if you can ever take it back out (which you can).

It is as advertised. The box slides over your existing carpet. He's measured this box with water. My JL10W3V2 fit in just fine and you might have an issue with those insanely deep superwoofers. I saw the molds in his garage, I know the work he's put into this box. It's really mind numbing to me that he would go through all this effort to build a subwoofer box but I can also recognize that he is an extreme perfectionist by the actions I've seen tonight. His first posts regarding the box, I just thought he was Joe Schmoe weekend warrior. Now I think of him as a cross between the Fishman and Da Vinci, supreme installer and artist.

CDX_NSX, if you want to take a look at the box and can do it on the weekends in OC, I will be happy to show you my box. You don't have to take my word for it, I'll let you cross-examine my box. PM me, I'll be in town tomorrow until the late evening.
 
Judging by my calculations,if right,that box is roughly 19 litres?
Is this correct?
By the way great looking piece!!!
I was just going to get started on mine next week,but why bother when I can buy it!
Doing this project in car could lend itself to a huge mess,ever try to clean fiberglass resin off of carpet,LOL !!
 
stacy'snsx said:
Judging by my calculations,if right,that box is roughly 19 litres?
Is this correct?
By the way great looking piece!!!
I was just going to get started on mine next week,but why bother when I can buy it!
Doing this project in car could lend itself to a huge mess,ever try to clean fiberglass resin off of carpet,LOL !!


That is 19.14 Ltrs.
 
Malibu Rapper said:
My hats off to zetoolman. This box is nothing short of a work of art. The craftsmanship is second to none. Honestly, the box fits so well that it gives you the feeling like it's become part of the structural integrity of the car. Trust me, I've seen some amazing fiberglass work and this is as good as anything I've ever seen. When I saw the finish of the box face, I was at a loss for words.

The face with the 4 layers of the exotic fiberglass is stronger than I could have ever imagined. He put in floating nuts which I've never used before and they are so much better than tee nuts because the play that they give.

I'll be honest with you, if I had known the quality would be this good, I would have willingly paid twice the price for this box and it would have been a good deal. There is no shop that comes to mind that would go through the effort that he did to achieve this level of perfection. You can see the endless hours that he put into squeezing the box into every last nook and cranny. It made the Buzz box look like the proverbial square peg in the round hole.

My car is a 95 with the EPS computer moved right beneath the glovebox. The box slid in and fit perfectly. 95+ cars will have to use this same trick to move the EPS computer and the mounting brackets. Once that is done, the box will squeeze in and make you wonder if you can ever take it back out (which you can).

It is as advertised. The box slides over your existing carpet. He's measured this box with water. My JL10W3V2 fit in just fine and you might have an issue with those insanely deep superwoofers. I saw the molds in his garage, I know the work he's put into this box. It's really mind numbing to me that he would go through all this effort to build a subwoofer box but I can also recognize that he is an extreme perfectionist by the actions I've seen tonight. His first posts regarding the box, I just thought he was Joe Schmoe weekend warrior. Now I think of him as a cross between the Fishman and Da Vinci, supreme installer and artist.

CDX_NSX, if you want to take a look at the box and can do it on the weekends in OC, I will be happy to show you my box. You don't have to take my word for it, I'll let you cross-examine my box. PM me, I'll be in town tomorrow until the late evening.


So workmanship is A++, but what is your honest opinion on the sound?

I may have missed it but what is the main difference between the JL10W1v2 and that JL10W3v2, did you listen to both?

Thanks in advance!

ALIENT
 
The W3 is dual voice coil, and double the cost!
I think the W1 is just as good as the W3. It needs less power, so a smaller amp works great. Car is hard enough to fit stuff into already. I heard both and you can get TONS of bass out of the W1.
 
I just learned today PayPal has a limit per month. So, I will have people send Money Order, or check. Since it takes time to finish the orders, the checks will clear!
If people do not have a problem with that.
If you only want to use paypal, I will upgrade my account. It will add 3% to total.

Thanks,
Zetoolman
 
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ALIENT said:
So workmanship is A++, but what is your honest opinion on the sound?

I may have missed it but what is the main difference between the JL10W1v2 and that JL10W3v2, did you listen to both?

Thanks in advance!

ALIENT

Today I went for a long cruise with some friends. My sub had more time to break in today and it loosened up. Sound quality is awesome. It's as good as any box you can build for this sub. I cranked it today, playing Pink Floyd made people think that helicopters were flying overhead. The box held up like a champ and didn't fall apart like my buzz box.

The difference between the W3 and W1 is price, power handling, and excursion. They sound VERY similar. The W3v2 has over .5" of one way linear travel which means it has the ability to be louder by moving more air. That's a very big number for most 10" subs. But you will need more power to push it to its limits. If you have a basic 4x50 amp that bridges to 200 watts on the sub, you would want to get the W1.

I'll tell you a few advantages the W1 has over the W3. First, the terminals on the W1V2 are really nice, the spring load clip type. The W3 has the old style slip on terminals. The W1 is lower profile. The W1 also has a better sealing gasket on the back of the basket, the W3 uses a big rubber ring which is more durable but I think doesn't create as good a seal.

You can't go wrong with either sub. Both will rock your car like no tomorrow and provide excellent SQ. The W1 is the newer of the two subs. I chose the W3 because I had to 340 watts to feed it and the excursion numbers were higher. The W1 is more versatile because it uses less power and is lower profile. The W3 if you have the power and the money, why not? :)
 
zetoolman said:
I just finished ...
.
Orders filled on a first come first serve basis.
See new pics!!!

I put an order in for one of these the other day, and am now in the process of selecting the amp. Current setup is stock everything except for a carpc in the trunk fed into the oem headunit via a Blitzsafe adaptor, controlled via navpod touchscreen.

Phase 1 is to replace the oem sub with this one, powered by a new amp, while leaving the door speaker/amp assemblies intact. It would be nice to find a good spot for the amp in the cabin, but I'll probably end up placing it in the trunk. I'm think I'm going to have to use the more hidden driver's side grommet since the passenger one is pretty full from the VGA/USB/RCA/etc cables for the Shuttle XPC. I'll need a custom harness to plug into the back of the bose headunit, but that's easy enough to fabricate with the proper connectors.

Phase 2, which may be a couple months down the line, is to take care of the doors, at which point the headunit becomes little more than a volume control, and could easily be taken out of the loop completely (stereo delete console?) with replacement volume knob somewhere. So ideally I'd choose an amp solution that would take care of me throughout these scenarios. I'm not looking for competition grade sound, but I want it to sound good, and I want quality gear. I've arrived to the Rockford Fosgate Punch P_002 series, either the P3002 ($179) or the P5002 ($250).

There's cheaper places to get it then here but the info is useful:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pBMap1JsriD/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=110&id=features_and_specs&i=575P3002

The tri-amp mode these amps support seems useful for the nsx situation, since it allows the amp to power both the main L+R and a sub as well. Also, the remote bass adjust will help me compensate for the OEM headunit's non-linear volume-frequency "feature."

Here's a description of the tri-amp mode:
----
"The PAC TM-100 Tri-Way crossover allows you to power a pair of stereo speakers and a subwoofer simultaneously from a Tri-Way compatible 2-channel amp. It's a cost-effective way to drive a subwoofer.

The TM-100 has input and output wires that you connect to your amp's speaker outputs and to the wires leading to your speakers. A 12 dB/octave low-pass filter sends frequencies below 100 Hz to your subwoofer. A 6 dB/octave high-pass filter sends frequencies above 100 Hz to your main speakers. Handles 250 watts RMS per channel. 4-3/4"W x 2-1/16"H x 3-13/16"D. 1-year warranty. "
----

Do these amps seem like a reasonable choice for this sub solution? Does someone with experience using tri-amp mode know if it's good or something to be avoided? It's difficult to choose without knowing what I'm going to put in the doors, but as long as this amp will support enough options, I'm ok limiting myself somewhat. Originally I was going to go with a mono sub amp but I'd rather not have to wire in a second amp later, taking up more trunk space, etc. But if tri-amp sucks then I may end up going with separate amps, or maybe a single (more expensive) 4 channel.

Any other amp suggestions that fit this awesome new sub package and my scenario are welcome and appreciated! :)

-Josh
 
I'd really consider replacing the Bose head unit. I replaced mine and there was a night and day difference. Initially replaced it with a Kenwood which will be for sale soon with a DIN center painted silver. Now, an Eclipse head unit which really rocks. Tim
 
jorligan said:
I'd really consider replacing the Bose head unit. I replaced mine and there was a night and day difference. Initially replaced it with a Kenwood which will be for sale soon with a DIN center painted silver. Now, an Eclipse head unit which really rocks. Tim

I use the carpc for all head unit functionality, so it's essentially replaced, except for the volume limiting and filter applied by passing the signal through the oem unit. That filter and probably some additional noise is what I'd guess accounts for the difference in percieved quality between the outdated oem and a modern unit. I could bypass the oem piece completely once I come up with an alternate volume knob. EQ can be done on the PC though I am unsure how it would compare to a hardware EQ.

-Josh
 
donwon said:
Do you have any pics with the floormat in?


Not yet. I gave Malibu Rapper the first complete unit. I need to make a new face plate to template the mats. First I need to make more boxes to fill orders! :biggrin:
When I get Template, I will send to Hurant so he can make for all.
 
I need to get confirmed orders from guys who have contacted me.

I have removed the list of names. Some people do not want there name posted. So, please send me email with order information/conformation to [email protected] so I have a log of all orders. I have received emails that have not been confirmed orders.
Thanks :smile:
 
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