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Rear brake hose removal help

Joined
7 May 2018
Messages
996
Location
San Jose
I'm trying to uncouple the rear brake hose. Unfortunately, the metal bracket is deformed and preventing me from sticking a socket into the 10mm head to remove the bolt. I didn't think to snap a picture at the time because I didn't even realize the bracket was deformed. Upon searching I found the below picture of how the bracket is supposed to look like. The bolt I can't remove is the one in the "middle" just above the bolt holding the hose. The lip around the top of the bracket is pressed down thus preventing the insertion of a socket to remove bolt. I had tried to raise the lip back up by twisting with a flat head screwdriver but it didn't budge at all. Now that I know it's deformed, tomorrow I intend to try some pliers or maybe even a flathead screwdriver with hammer to try to move the lip back up to make some space. I have no idea how it could've gotten squished down. Any other suggestions that I could try?

R01.jpg
 
If you can remove the other two bolts completely, you may be able to twist the whole plate and 'crack' the bolt enough to turn it by other means?
Otherwise a stud extractor if you can get on in there.
 
Not sure exactly what you are trying to do but if your aim is the removal of the brake hose and can remove the bottom bolt (12mm) holding the crimped hose bracket, can you not just pull the hose out through the opening of the upright after removing the banjo (oil) bolt at the brake calliper side???
You don't even need touching the two 10mm bolts and thus, no need for removing the metal bracket/plate with deformed lip.

There is a protection rubber block inside the same opening but the rubber has a slit and only briefly glued to the hose that you can easily remove it.

As NSXGB mentioned, even if you can't remove the middle 10mm bolt, if you can remove the other 10mm one, you may be able to 'swing' the entire metal bracket/plate.


Or, may be I'm missing something???


Kaz

 
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Do you have a hand held impact driver? Cat's ass for removing stuck machine screws, particularly phillips head screws. Popped the retaining screw off the rotors on my 2003 Pilot and my Son's RSX sans effort.

This one is a bit pricey and I am not particularly crazy about the 3/8 drive (compared to my 45 year old one that looks more like a screwdriver); but, you get the idea.

https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/...-TR-_-PR-_-PLA-NA-_-EN&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA

Whang the back of the driver with a ball peen hammer and out pops the screw. A required tool if you owned a Japanese motorcycle from the late 60s- to early 70s because the engine cases were all assembled with phillips head machine screws and the heads would strip on removal. It was the mid to late 70s before Honda discovered the hex head machine screw.
 
Do you have a hand held impact driver? Cat's ass for removing stuck machine screws, particularly phillips head screws. Popped the retaining screw off the rotors on my 2003 Pilot and my Son's RSX sans effort.

This one is a bit pricey and I am not particularly crazy about the 3/8 drive (compared to my 45 year old one that looks more like a screwdriver); but, you get the idea.

https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/...-TR-_-PR-_-PLA-NA-_-EN&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA

Whang the back of the driver with a ball peen hammer and out pops the screw. A required tool if you owned a Japanese motorcycle from the late 60s- to early 70s because the engine cases were all assembled with phillips head machine screws and the heads would strip on removal. It was the mid to late 70s before Honda discovered the hex head machine screw.

Yeah I have a cheapy Harbor Freight one. The screws were so stuck that the driver bit actually deformed! I did manage to get them out after a lot of banging, torching, and soaking with WD40. Didn't even strip the heads.
 
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