Salt on the road concerns??

PghMiller

PghMiller

Experienced Member
Joined
22 April 2013
Messages
378
Location
Pittsburgh PA
Please educate me about this issues/concerns about driving on salty roads?? Why is it so bad to drive in those conditions? Millions of cars do it all winter long, then spring comes and you get a good wash/detail and nothing is wrong. (I drive my other cars in winter, and nothing is wrong with that!?)

Also, I have opti-coat on my car, which apparently is a "permanent" clear coat that can only be removed by buffing it off with a compound, and CAN'T be removed/compromised by even the harshest of chemicals.... so what's salty water going to do??
 
Quite simply, salt-water acts as a catalyst for rust production.
Check out this short and sweet response: http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=552

Salt water will also quickly eat away at aluminum bits in the presence of most other metals. I believe many aluminum hulled boats must be electronically charged if other metal components are used extensively in the hull to prevent said "galvanic" corrosion.

Salty roads are also bad since the salty residue tends to dry rubber bits out faster, like weather stripping, gaskets, bushings, and tires.

As you can see, for steel/aluminum/rubber machines, such as cars, salt and specifically salt water is the enemy.

I can't speak for the coatings, but theoretically, if the iron in one's car can be isolated from oxygen, rust will never form (hence the coating doing its job).

Ideally, vehicles driven in salty winter conditions should be washed after every salty adventure to avoid the above. Petro Canada sells 90 day daily car wash passes for this exact reason:
http://retail.petro-canada.ca/en/maintenance/3181.aspx?linkid=CW-SP

Obviously, certain cars are more prone to rust, so if you have been having good luck, then you've picked the right cars!

Lucas

Edit:

Also, small rock sized salt bits suck for paint jobs!
 
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My understanding is dry salt isn't particularly active but mixed with water becomes a very good oxidation catalyst.
I don't think the risk of salt/water damage is so much to the NSX topside, but more to the underside components of the car.
Here in BC we don't have as much salt as you do, but we have lots of water in the winter.
When I installed my headers I found all the exhaust system bolts were totally corroded and had to be cut out.
Also spray from the front wheels catalyzed corrosion on most of the steel components around the ABS system and other under hood areas.
I've also got some corrosion on steel parts in the engine compartment.

Aluminum also oxidizes and I have evidence of that on the underside components too.
At least with aluminum once the oxide forms it goes no further.

There also a fair bit of wiring under hood, lower engine and O2 sensors etc. that can be fouled by salt/water.
 
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Good info, thanks!

I've driven around a few times this winter (on "nice" days) because this is my first year with the NSX and I just couldn't bear not driving it! And I DID wash/rinse the body soon after (not always the same day, but very soon after)... but I didn't do any washing/rinsing of the underbody...

Should I go through one of those touchless car washes that offer the underbody spray? (is that good enough?)
Or do I have to go to a detailer or dealership that offer an underbody cleaning?
 
I always spend a fair amount of time rinsing the undercarriage when I take it out in winter times. We don't get much snow in the DC area in general, but they salt the roads to excess. I stick the hose under the car from the front, back and sides to try and give it a good rinse. Similar story around each wheel well. Probably not perfect, but I figure it is better than ignoring the bottom.

I wouldn't run my car through an automated car wash, but I am risk adverse when it comes to the NSX. Odds are it would come out fine, but I have heard too many horror stories of those car was places causing problems even with normal cars.
 
also remember its not just the Body that you are concerned with. all the dust makes its way into your engine and under your hood corroding things in there too... washing justs gets the stuff you can see on the outside.
 
blue_myriddn said:
I wouldn't run my car through an automated car wash, but I am risk adverse when it comes to the NSX. Odds are it would come out fine, but I have heard too many horror stories of those car was places causing problems even with normal cars.
Click to expand...

I've been using touchless Laserwashes almost weekly for a decade with no ill effects.

laserwash g5.jpg
 
This is now my second winter driving the NSX around in the DC area and as mentioned above we get a ton of salt. The big reason 'other cars' have no issue driving around in winter is that most of those other cars are replaced every few years whereas odds are we plan on hanging onto our NSXs for a good long while. Personally I think frequent rinsing will go a long way (I still wash my daily-driven NSX at least weekly) but time will tell if it is enough. I am okay with the idea of replacing the exhaust and assorted parts in the long run if I have to. There are enough NSX guys owned by less brave drivers that we will always have spare parts available ;)
 
I had a friend that lived in snow country with a nice car (a BMW CS) that he drove sometimes in the winter.
His (heated) garage was next to his house with a fairly long driveway (about 75 feet) from the street.
He had sprinklers installed in the driveway's grass center strip and had them connected to a hot/cold mixing bib.
At the end of drives he would turn on the (very-warm) water sprinklers and slowly drive to the heated garage.
Don't know if that's a perfect solution, but it sounds interesting.
 
SFNSXguy said:
I had a friend that lived in snow country with a nice car (a BMW CS) that he drove sometimes in the winter.
His (heated) garage was next to his house with a fairly long driveway (about 75 feet) from the street.
He had sprinklers installed in the driveway's grass center strip and had them connected to a hot/cold mixing bib.
At the end of drives he would turn on the (very-warm) water sprinklers and slowly drive to the heated garage.
Don't know if that's a perfect solution, but it sounds interesting.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea :biggrin: Wish my yard was flat enough to do that
 
a9uny9eh.jpg

It looked like this..

ajyga2aj.jpg

And then this after having to drive home.

The other weekend my NSX had its second salt experience. The first was driving it home from Ohio after purchase. And then this time after the motor trend show in Baltimore. I really didn't have a option but to drive home or park in Baltimore and get a room miss work etc. I took it to a touch less and ran it thru twice on the least expensive one so no wax etc. I just did it for the under body wash. Now I have to pull it out next warm day and hand wash it, and clean the underside again...
 
My nsx has spent all its life in NE Pa.....It is not used in winter...but the brine/friction goboldiguck that pendot and our town bath the roads in all winter do have a very corrosive effect on my Landcruiser.The underbody is rusting as is the manifold/exhaust system...really disappointed in Toyota that there premium ute deteriorates in this way.
 
docjohn said:
My nsx has spent all its life in NE Pa.....It is not used in winter...but the brine/friction goboldiguck that pendot and our town bath the roads in all winter do have a very corrosive effect on my Landcruiser.The underbody is rusting as is the manifold/exhaust system...really disappointed in Toyota that there premium ute deteriorates in this way.
Click to expand...


Could have sworn that I've seen your NSX out of NE PA, in Watkins Glen NY, in Columbus Ohio, and in Raleigh NC to name just a few places that aren't in NE PA.

Love to bust back at ya Doc!!!!!
 
.lol .don't forget sonoma!!!....btw Roger don't forget about nus....and lulu ....:tongue:
 
As I've mentioned in previous threads, I have a '91 that I drive year 'round here in the Great White North. I have put somewhere around 95k miles (U.S. car) on myself in 13 years .. and probably around 25-30k of those were in winter conditions of some kind so I probably have more experience than most. The roads aren't as heavily salted here as elsewhere as salt looses its effectiveness when temps are lower than 10 F but I have certainly driven many times in the spring in 'salt spray'. And for 8 of those years, I parked at work 5 days a week in underground heated parkade where the snow/salt would melt and become a wet salt solution for about 6 hours a day. So, I think I've probably subjected my car to way worse conditions than any of you. The only proactive protection I took was a nose bra and mirror bras. During the winter, I don't even wash the car much because you risk freezing up the door seals when its below about -20.

Yes, the exhaust bolts and other components will rust if they're not stainless ... and I've had some rusting near the battery box .. but no discernable impact on the body or any other visible part of the car. No early replacements of O2 sensors; rubber bushings; shocks; or anything else. CV boots have held up pretty well although I had them re-done at the second major service. I replaced the OEM exhaust at about 120k miles with a new RM Racing/BB exhaust which has held up pretty well 65k miles later. OEM main coolant hoses were replaced at the 165k mark along with new headers at the point but that was my choice, not a required item. I replaced one of the two condensor fan motors at probably about 135k mark .. no issues since. Considering the constant freeze/thaw cycles, I'm surprised that the condensation in the gas tank hasn't necessitated a fuel pump change yet. I did the SOS ABS brake retrofit but, again, that was due to typical solenoid issue not corrosion.

So, to be honest, I think this issue is largely overblown by people who have no actual experience. My car would never get best of show .. but then it had minor road rash paint imperfections and probably wouldn't have won back in 2001 when I bought it.
YMMV
 
It's been explained in the above posts the damage that salt can and does do to cars. That being said I'm sure you could drive your NSX to your hearts content with no more ill effects than a standard car. You could also use the Mona Lisa as a place mat while chowing down on a nice bowl of pasta. The question is why would you do it? Unless the NSX is your only form of transportation park it for the winter and, come spring, dust it off and drive all summer and fall.
 
Thanks for the insight, NSX2398. I am happy to hear I can continue to enjoy my NSX all year round in all conditions. Why cheat myself of the daily driving experience?
 
FF Drifter said:
Thanks for the insight, NSX2398. I am happy to hear I can continue to enjoy my NSX all year round in all conditions.
Click to expand...
I neglected to include my usual disclaimer that if you're planning to drive in winter conditions, please seriously consider getting a set of winter tires. Consult Tire Rack for many explanations on the bad effects that cold temperatures can have on a tires grip and even if you're not 'in snow'. And even with winter tires, you're going to have to dial things back compared to summer driving .. but, on the other hand, there's nothing quite as much fun in winter as a rear wheel drive vehicle with the TCS off.

- - - Updated - - -

Aluminsx said:
The question is why would you do it?
Click to expand...
Because the fun of driving it every day is way better than parking it. You're obviously in it for the driveway jewelry experience .. not the driving experience.
 
Fully agree on the winter tires. Without them I can't imagine driving all winter. It was pretty cold this year and my Hankook W310's worked nicely. I am, however, looking forward to returning to summer tires.

On washing after winter driving, here is something I got together this weekend, hooked up to my hot-water spigot:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=vlq7m7PQ8bA
 
In case anyone is interested, it's a model A5 from this page (they also make a model specifically for washing under cars but I had this laying around). I cut the tube between the bend and the nozzles and put it back together with a piece of tubing and some hose clamps. A garden hose didn't fit over and the only thing I could find laying around was 3/4" PEX, which fit after expanded with the special expansion tool; secured with hose clamps.

If I were ordering something, I would measure the size of the waterbroom pipe first and get some tubing like this with some hose clamps.
 
I toughed it on on summer tires through the brutal DC winter this year =/ luckily I am able to work remotely so that helped a lot, but next year I will definitely need to purchase a new set of wheels with winter rubber on them.
 

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