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SRS Control Module Removal Issues

1 June 2009
Nuclear Power Plant, New York
Hi All,

I am in the process of removing my SRS Control module to send it over to Brian for repair. I have removed everything up to the actual control module. Now trying to remove those T30 Torx screws is becoming a problem. I have tried most of my tools and cannot loosen those screws AT ALL.
Any suggestions, I have already tried WO40...
I have attached a photo of the screws.


I read a post here years ago that recommended vice grips. I thought no way.
Then I wound up using vice grips, they worked like a charm.
Heat is your friend. The factory used red loctite. One trick is to heat up the back of the screw before you loosen the screw. Just be careful not to burn down the whole car. :D
Indeed - heat is the treat. One of those little micro butane torches may do the trick; but, you do need to give consideration to the whole open flame in the presence of combustible articles and potential damage to paint finishes. You could try a hot air gun (think paint stripper guns). The better ones come with adjustable temperature and air speed and more importantly different sized nozzles. You want one with a nozzle about 3/8" in diameter so that you don't go cooking everything in the vicinity of the screws.
If you have a soldering iron or gun, you might want to try that since they usually have small tip options and you can put high heat right where you need it with high precision and without affecting the general area.

Once you get the screws out, my experience was that it wasn't straightforward removing it .. just keep manipulating it until you find something that works. It will come out
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I used a butane torch (this one, actually), held it on the bolt head for about 45 seconds then used a torx bit on a ratchet and they came right out. Loctite says to heat parts to 550°F before the red stuff will release. Those bolts are particularly soft, too, which makes it more important to get things nice and hot
I'm afraid the ones in your photo is the easier side.
The mating thread/fastener is on the SRS controller housing and they are held really well that no worries of freely spinning the mating fastener making it impossible to remove the Torx bolt.

Now if you carefully look at the other side, you will notice the difference.

The mating thread/fastener is on the chassis frame and not on the controller housing like in your photo.

That side may cause headache if you are not careful.
The mating thread/fastener is welded but not so strong that if you apply too much torque, you will break the welding and end up freely spinning the mating thread/fastener behind the chassis frame.
Very limited space....

So, heat may help but best if you get tiny locking plier before starting the task at the other side.

Make sure to invest in good quality Torx bit and I normally recommend the use of T-wrench so that you can press against the bolt while rotating it to minimise the damage to the Torx groove.

Several examples here; http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=48