I am going to have to do the entire glass and gasket replacement alignment on my car after paint. After reading this, looks like I'll have to set aside a few days... @Kaz-kzukNA1 if you can, could you post your notes on the full install and alignment procedure here? As our NSX gets older, I think there are many owners who will need to replace the rails, sashes and door gaskets in the next few years. I will be doing this miserable job in a month or so and would appreciate any advice!
I share your window adjustment frustrations and can offer up some discussion points from my experience this past month trying to adjust mine. My philosophy was to use the FSM as a reference but ignore all of the measurement specs, just get the window working and sealing the best I could.
-I tried to keep both lower track adjustment bolts at the same height since the FSM said to keep their adjustments the same. In certain situations (like yours), adjusting one bolt differently than the other might help reduce the twisting of the track. I'm not sure if they're meant to be somewhat twisted (doubt it) but I didn't notice it on my tracks. I think the key here would be to test the window movement with the track twisted in either direction and with no twist (3 positions) to find which point causes the least friction to the window guides which I would think is the ultimate goal, even if that means leaving the bolts adjusted differently to one another. No factory specs to share since I have no idea if mine were touched before I got to them.
I will have to go back and carefully re read the FSM. I interpreted the 'keep the adjustments the same' as keep them at the same number of turns as when the tracks were removed from the car; but, that the two bolts could have different number of turns. Are you interpreting this as both the front and back adjusting bolt should have the same depth?
Some Kaz pics here (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1581-ABS-Upgrade-Door-Window-Refresh-etc-09&goto=next) if that helps you figure out if your track is out of whack, hit Prev/Next for more good posts. They definitely change shape over time, I was able to get satisfactory performance with my 30+ year old guides but a set of T3TEC guides for $800 plus shipping and a set of 8 new OEM guides would make things work a lot smoother, but over $1k USD for that extra bit of performance isn't worth it to me right now.
Its hard to tell from the photos in Kaz's blog whether the back rails have a slight twist. The picture of the T3TEC rear window guide does look like it has a slight twist to it. I am going to have to search around some more to find out whether twist is good or twist is bad. Kaz did make the comment that the silver color that appears in the grease is due to wear of the track material and I definitely have that. On my rear track I noticed that at the bottom and top of the motion range of the glides there was a round impression in the bottom of the track rail. This was slight on my drivers side door; but, very noticeable on my passenger side. In retrospect, it almost looks like when the window starts or stops its movement at the top or bottom of the range that the regulator might be pulling the window sideways and causing the mounting screw for the glides to hit the track.
I checked Amayama and the rear track and new glides would be about $125 US so not unreasonable; however, they list a ? next to shipping for the track which I expect means over size which is going to send the price by Fed Ex way up, so definitely next year when other shipping options become available. In his blog, Kaz makes reference to adjusting the glides, shimming them and the glides being loose. I am curious about what is meant by shimming them since I see no provision in the parts manual for shims. I was not able to determine where he is shimming them. If you shim them under the mounting screw that would push the glide more into the bottom of the track which would increase the wear on the bottom of the track and I already have lots of that so I think I am missing something. I am also unsure about the looseness part. My glides appear to be free to gimble on the mount and I assumed that was part of the design. The glides also appeared to have in-out movement on the mount and I also assumed that was part of the design. The mounting screws were not loose and the glides did not seem to rattle on their mounts although the pads on the outside of my glides had disappeared which may lead to the mounting screw dragging on the bottom of the track. Were your glides rigid or did they also have the gimble and in - out movement?
-I also wonder how the track fore-aft adjustment is meant to work when they're fixed at the top by the sash bolts which have much less adjustment fore-aft. There is a slot in the back of the rear sashes where the window guide slides on but the bolt hole in the door skin to that slot is just a circle, not enough to allow for real guide adjustment at the top.
My take was that the slot was just to allow some small adjustment in the position of the rear sash to deal with the boot stretch problem / final alignment relative to the rest of the body. I don't think there is any real provision for-aft adjustment in the tracks.
-I found that if I moved a track outside of its "natural" settling point (that I found by leaving the track bolts loose and moving the window), the window would actually stick at the bottom of the door and wouldn't move. What I did to reduce friction was leaving the track bolts loose (the whole bolt, not the in-out adjuster) and bolting them down with the window fully up at the point of "least tension" on the guides. I would need to experiment more with this method to come to any useful conclusion, ultimately if I bolted down the tracks in a position they didn't seem to want to be in, the window tended to stick as the guides probably got jammed up.
Your natural settling point idea is interesting. I know that when I reinstalled the back track on the passenger door I installed the top bolt first and ran in in to slightly tight - no rattle; but, loose enough to allow movement. This resulted in the lower part of the track being located towards the center of the door with the tips of the adjusting bolts just barely projecting through the mounting holes. With the adjusting bolts at their bottomed position (the way they came out of the car) I had to exert a fair amount of force on the lower part of the track to screw on the nuts and tighten them. If the tracks are supposed to be close to their normal mounting point when you insert them my passenger side definitely wasn't. I don't recall this being a problem on the driver's side. I am wondering if the in-out adjustment on the rear sash might be part of the problem. Working on your natural positioning idea, I am thinking that a plan might be to detach the regulator from the glass and then slide the window up and down to see if there is a bind point. If the bind occurs when entering the front or rear sash then it might be a question of adjusting the sash in or out to address the bind rather than adjusting the tracks. Once the tracks and the sash play nicely with the window, then perhaps you can adjust the tracks and sash together to get the desired gasket fit.
One thing I noticed while messing with the passenger window is that the sliding spool where the glass holder attaches to the regulator did not seem to be moving in and out as the window went up and down. Its clean and well greased (I did a Hugo kit a couple of years ago). In retrospect, this leaves me wondering whether part of the glass movement binding problem may be caused by the regulator mounting forcing the glass into an abnormal position. If you can get the glass to operate smoothly while detached from the regulator, it might be interesting to see what happens to the movement of the glass after you attach the regulator. If the regulator is the problem, then perhaps it might be necessary to 'somehow' shim the regulator to position it better. It occurs to me that you might be able to check the position of the glass relative to the gaskets and trim without the regulator attached. This would be a bit of extra effort requiring a lot of tape to hold the glass in the up position; but, if you can adjust the tracks, sashes and the glass stops so that the glass moves smoothly and is positioned correctly that 'should' remove them as the source of the problem. I will note that at this point this is definitely not a fully thought out idea.
-The left (driver's) window in your pic is adjusted way further forward (fore) than mine is, but mine is too far aft to begin with (almost hits the B-pillar) so there's a middle ground there. I think the gap in yours might be creating the wind noise you report due to the crevice between the window edge and B-pillar interrupting the smooth flow of air. If you manage to bring the window further aft, you might not need to bring it further inboard as well since the edge of the window will naturally press harder against the gasket.
That is possible; but, I still seem to be getting a little wind noise from the area of the front sash (not where the glass touches the gasket). I ended up with the glass that far forward because I was attempting to get the A trim overlap on the glass in the area just above the sash into the FSM specified 1-3 mm range. For-aft adjustment of the glass was the only option since raising the window stops would increase the overlap along the roof line past 3 mm. What is interesting is that both the driver side and passenger side glass are full forward in their attachment points to the regulator and the regulator mounts are in their full forward position, yet the driver's side glass is clearly much farther forward the passenger's side. Unless there is variability in the location of the mounting points in the doors, I am thinking that variability has to be in the regulator mounting points on the glass when they get bonded to the glass at the factory.
Every window is different so the intricacies are hard to convey with text, it would be nice to have another experienced helper in-person. I really think that unless you're spending $2k+ on all new gaskets, guides, tracks, regulators, sashes, etc. and you devote several days to the project which almost no one has time for, the windows will never be quite perfect.