Theory about oil from vent tubes on turbo/SC engines

sjs

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This is a long one...

Dan/tunapie got me thinking more about the loss of oil through the valve cover vents experienced on various turbo and BBSC cars especially because his has been leak-down tested and shown to have very low true blow-by. I too had something like it happen when I ran mine at Gateway. Prior to that I hadn’t seen any oil, but there I burped out a bunch. Others have also said that hard runs on the street don’t push out a drop, but on the track they lose a lot. Now I’ve got a theory or two about what happens and I’d like others to kick it around and look for the fatal flaw.

This is based on the 3.0 engines which have the PCV valve on the front cover. There were changes to the 3.2 which may or may not have the same problem

The NSX block has huge oil return drain passages leading from the head down to the pan. There are four down each side of each bank (actually, some of the inner ones lead to the main bearings rather than dumping into the pan). These passages are what create those large ribs down the sides of the block and under the intake manifold. Since the engine is a 90 degree V the outer passages “hang” off the lowest sides at 45+ degrees. They are much larger at the top than the bottom. Interestingly, where they empty into the pan the rear outer passages are quite a bit smaller than the front outer ones. (14mm vs. 17mm which is a big difference in area) Makes me wonder why. Anyway, on the rear valve cover the vent pipe comes out high and close to the inside of the V. Under the valve cover you find a flat plate in the shape of a U, creating an air chamber under those conspicuous bumps in the cover, with the vent pipe out one end. The plate is sealed and solid from the vent tube up to the far end, across the end, then back down the other side, which seems to rule out a simple path for the oil. In the center of the far side (outside of the V) are ten 8mm holes for air to pass between the engine and vent chamber. Just one of those is located on the extreme outer/lower edge while the rest are clustered slightly inside/above of center, so I’d guess the one acts as a drain for any oil that does splash up and through the others.

Now imagine sustained high revs and therefore high oil pressure and flow to the head for the cams etc. I need to examine an engine and the drawings more closely, but I think the oil that actuates VTEC then also flows into the head below the cover. (can’t think where else it would go) If so, sustained high RPM means lots of extra oil that needs to drain back down.

Switching to the front valve cover vent for a minute, it normally vents to the intake under vacuum. That vacuum actively draws pressure out of the crankcase, so simply routing the line to atmosphere reduces it’s ability to relieve the pressure. I think that’s a contributing factor to our problem, though I’m not sure how big of a factor. It may be that as oil flow gets very high, oil builds up under the valve cover unable to drain back down for several reasons, one of them being that pressure below in the crankcase. Add boost to the engine and even with good piston rings the volume of gasses past those rings must rise somewhat, increasing the amount of venting required at the same time pressure relief is compromised.

Now add to that high G’s in various directions, sloshing around all that oil up top and possibly centrifugal force “holding it up” in the drain passages. With all that happening the result may be excessive “pooling” of oil under the valve covers, and when you get enough under the rear one it sloshes up through the baffle holes and is carried around to the vent. Belch!

One possible way to decrease the pooling might be to increase the venting capacity of the front cover so it can relieve crankcase pressure and allow oil to drain faster. So a much larger vent tube there may help, allowing the drains to do their job better. I’m not real confident that the pressure is the main thing slowing down the drains, but it’s a simple enough mod for starters. I think the amount of oil escaping might be reduced with a few strategically placed drain holes in the inner/upper side of the cover baffle, allowing oil to run back out before reaching the vent tube. I can’t think why Honda didn’t do that to begin with. But that would still leave lots of oil pooling up there, which may be a problem for other reasons

I’m wondering if the same thing contributes to the oil starvation failures seen on high banks. That’s generally assumed to be caused by oil in the pan being forced to one side by G loads, leaving the pickup to suck air. But if the NSX sump is well designed that shouldn’t happen when you have the proper amount of oil. However, if a bunch of the oil is trapped under the cover and in the return passages then the risk of starvation increases as though you were low on oil.

Another possibility is that under high G loads the oil in the pan may be sloshing over and under the drain outlets, effectively obstructing them and slowing the drain flow from above, but I need a closer look at the pan and baffle arrangement to see if that’s possible. If so, some baffle mods down there might be part of the solution.

Looking for input and ideas.
 
I looked at a baffle and with so little space inside of the oil pan (the crank supports are in the way) I figure a quart and a half was all I could trap diring a high g turn. I ended up with a Acusump 3 qt accumulator. There is one turn at Thunderhill that has several cars droping oil pressure. One has added the Acusump and he still shows a drop in the same place. Next we are addind a mechanical guage to see if it is the crappy nsx indication. I know the CTSC people are saying they do not have this problem . My guess is because the blower is placed AFTER the throttle body and have more vacume with the added air flow to help draw the extra gases. All the rest of us have positive pressure to slow things down. Its just a guess!! Dan
 
I had the same thought 3 years ago when I went turbo,
I drilled holes in the rear valve cover baffle just before the vent hole allowing oil to drain that might be trapped on the baffle during cornering, and have not had a problem since.
 
Originally posted by Gerry Johnson:
I had the same thought 3 years ago when I went turbo,
I drilled holes in the rear valve cover baffle just before the vent hole allowing oil to drain that might be trapped on the baffle during cornering, and have not had a problem since.

Yes, that's one of the possibilities I mention above. Thanks Gerry for confirming that it seems to be OK to do. However, that still leaves the possibility that we are trapping far to much oil up top when it should be down in the pan for the pickup. That much oil up top may also result in frothing as the cams and rockers churn in it but I guess that's of minimal concern.

Dan, what triggers the Acusump to release it's reserve?
 
I only turn the thing on while tracking. No trigger, just stores the pressure energy and puts it back when the pressure drops. Dan
 
We have some good ideas going here and I am sure a LOT of FI people would like to solve this problem also. The last 2 trips to the track have been cut short so if we can come up with a fix I will be the lab raton any of the local FOUR world class tracks we have (I just had to rub that in). Thanks for the info Gerry, I just need to know where to drill the holes. Dan
 
Originally posted by tunapie:
...I just need to know where to drill the holes. Dan

I think that they would be best if centered lengthwise (as are the original ones on the lower side) and along the lower edge of the top half of the U shaped baffle, similar to the single hole in the lower half of the U. I would avoid placing them all the way at the end by the vent tube because that may get swamped with the trapped oil around right-hand turns making things worse, so I think centered along the length of the baffle is best.
 
Some pics:

Underside of rear cover:

nsxvc.jpg


Rear bank of (dirty) engine block:

nsxblock1.jpg


Underside of engine block:
Center "drains" are actually breathers covered by baffles.

nsxblock2.jpg
 
Originally posted by beckertb:
Steve,

Have you made these holes yet? Did it help?

TIA

Ben

Nope. Between work and the weather I've had little opportunity to tinker with or even drive any of my cars, but even if I did I probably couldn't confirm improvement without getting to a track. I figure that at a minimum it shouldn’t hurt anything and it sounds like Gerry had success with a similar approach.
 
Disclaimer: this may be a stupid and useless post, as I'm not entirely sure I know what I'm talking about. That said, here goes:

So if I understand the topic, there's two problems up for discussion?

1) blowing oil out the PCV
2) general oil buildup that contributes both to #1, and to a general drop in oil pressure.

Isn't an oil catch can pretty standard procedure for addressing problem #1?

Another easy thing to try would be to replace the PCV connection with one of those K&N crankcase breather filters like on the Dali shiny intake. From reading this thread, I'm not sure that would be a good thing in terms of venting pressure, especially on an FI car, or what the implication of pressure buildup is. But it may or may not give some indication as to whether that venting could be affecting oil return, and reducing oil loss is one reason (I think) people with other cars (like integras/civics) do that mod.

I believe Sport Compact Car had a problem similar to this with their project 300zx (or rather, their engine builder told them about the problem being common on the 300zx), and the problem was fixed by simply relocating the PCV port (is that a good word?) somewhere else. If memory serves correctly, though, I think that engine only had one big oil drain passage, per head, as opposed to lots of separate ones like our car.

-Mike
 
(5) NSX’s went to a track event this last weekend in the South East at Road Atlanta. (3) Of the (5) had modified rear valve cover modifications. (1) Was Basch supercharged, and (2) just had aftermarket air intakes (Eliminating the hose running from the rear valve cover to just before the throttle body). All three-aftermarket cars had severe oil spewing problems. Conditions: All cars were driven extremely hard on a long, high RPM (Continuous V-Tech) Track. It is also notable that the temperature was 40 degrees +/- 10 depending on the time of the day.
Now… this leads me to believe that since the (2) stock cars didn’t have a problem; they either didn’t pushed the cars as hard, or a small amount of vacuum at high RPM is necessary in the rear valve cover.

The front Valve cover (PCV side) gets vacuum with little or no throttle, and then the rear valve cover gets vacuum at high to full throttle. I think we have a balance thing going on here, maybe for drainage reasons. I will also add that the stock configured cars didn’t have oil spewing out the tail pipes, as would be the case if the same volume of oil were fed into the throttle body.

All (3) of these cars have been tracked very hard at Texas without having this problem. So Atlanta might be a contributor, as it has one very long extended V-tech condition. The temperature might also have contributed to the oil flow, but I would have to think that engine temperature would have thinned the oil to normal.

I know this problem isn’t new, as I’ve seen it at other track events- always on someone else’s car… assuming it must be a car specific problem. I have also been told that numerous Basch cars are having the problem, and have seen this problem in (2) turbo cars.

Oil drainage seems to be a logical answer- does anyone have tested facts?



[This message has been edited by NSXEE (edited 14 January 2003).]
 
Rob,

This is Mike from the track event, I have a solution to our Oil Issue. I reviewed the manual, did some thinking, and came up with what i believe will solve our problem. I will be working this mod on Mark Hicks car wed. we will also do the thermo, since it did stick the last run sun. I finally got some track time with MH, and i spent it watching gauges, and engine compartment. I can say with confidence that Road Atlanta was what caused the problem, nothing with the kit. We only made about 4 or 5 laps, and then coming outta 10B i saw the oil press drop and tried to get mark to pit but he didnt hear me, then topping 11, and heading into 12, the temp pegged due to the bad thermostat sticking, so we keyed off and coasted down the straight, and put it in the dirt on the outside wall, about a min later, the thermo opened, and we backed it up into pit lane and called it a day. So going to do that also wed.


Email me at [email protected] and I will give ya full details, and would apprieciate any insight you may have to the mod I am going to do.

[This message has been edited by KODIAC (edited 14 January 2003).]
 
Mike,
Good to here from you. Mark doesn’t have a mechanical oil pressure gauge; he is still using the stock one. I was having suspicious readings with my stock gauge, so I installed a mechanical using a “T” fitting, so I could retain the stock one also. I have watched both of them on the track, daily driving, and at the dyno… I can assure you that the stock gauge should never be trusted. I have watched the needle go in the opposite direction of the mechanical gauge, reaching near zero, while the mechanical climbs to 90+psi.

But, you did bring something up that is intriguing… Mark had a problem on his first session of the first day. I saw steam exiting his overflow as I was easily passing him (Just kidding about the passing him). When we came in he had an overheating problem. He said he had the heat on during the run. He also developed the oil spewing problem shortly after.
I on the other hand did not have an oil problem the first day, but the second day I left my heat on by mistake, and when I came in I had the oil problem. It may not be related, but worth noting. (I did push a lot harder the second day)

I personally think that this is in fact an oil flow issue in the valve cover/head. My oil pressure is very high around 90 to 100 psi. 1 bar = 14.?? Psi, so 8 bars= 112+

I intend on drilling a drain hole in the valve cover, at Roebling the weekend after next. I want to wait until after I see the problem again, so I can verify the fix. Unfortunately if Road Atlanta is the cause, it may not show itself at Roebling.

Rob
 
Rob,

The heating issue was related to a stuck thermostat, I will be heading over to Marks here in an hour or so, and we are going to change the thermostat, and look at the oil drain/blowby issue.

Also, on the second day when you had the oil issue slightly( nothing like the 2 qt mark saw), you had put that rubber cap on your breather line. after removing it, there wasnt any major oil issue after that if I remember correctly.
 
Originally posted by KODIAC:
Rob,

The heating issue was related to a stuck thermostat, I will be heading over to Marks here in an hour or so, and we are going to change the thermostat, and look at the oil drain/blowby issue.

Also, on the second day when you had the oil issue slightly( nothing like the 2 qt mark saw), you had put that rubber cap on your breather line. after removing it, there wasnt any major oil issue after that if I remember correctly.


The experiment with the cap was the worse case… but the rest of my experiments just minimized the oil splatter on my engine, firewall glass, hatch, smell (like a junkyard beater from getting on the exhaust), and most important; some oil would have made it to the track. The final version with minimal oil splatter involved a foot of hose, an inline filter, another 3 feet of hose, into a bottle that was vented, and wrapped with paper towels and duct tape. (Disclaimer: this was desperation at the track) This really just minimized the oil from spreading, and is not a solution. I will also add that restricting, and or capping the rear valve cover/breather will add to the airflow balance problem, and prematurely increase your oil pressure.
I wont be satisfied until fumes are the only form of ventilation.
I think that Marks oil problem is compounded by boost. If you read my earlier post, my theory about oil flow in the valve cover or baffle is due to a change from the stock vacuum and positive pressures.
“The front Valve cover (PCV side) gets vacuum with little or no throttle, and then the rear valve cover gets vacuum at high to full throttle. I think we have a balance thing going on here, maybe for drainage reasons. I will also add that; the stock configured cars didn’t have oil spewing out the tail pipes, as would be the case if the same volume of oil were fed into the throttle body.”
I would like to add more- both the front and rear covers switch airflow direction depending on throttle position. And with boost the range goes from 0 to –30 lbs of vacuum to +12 to –30 lbs of vacuum.

If the NSX engine was designed to only work near this stock environment, then that would explain all the problems with the boosted engines.
 
Just got off the phone with Mark, who had a good point… Atlanta has many high G right hand turns, including a very long turn 12. If oil is having a hard time draining out of the rear valve cover, then that oil would travel out the hose under right handed G load. The stock hose bends up and over. I think that the late model red valve cover revised the exit location.
Mark is going to re-route his hose up and over the valve cover to a catch/breather can. I would also suggest a gradual incline with a large hose to allow drain back.
I still don’t like the over accumulation in the head, and intend on adding that drain hole in the valve cover.
I also intend on feeding the front cover to a catch can and breather; eliminating the pcv valve and plugging the vacuum line.
Those of you with higher performance engines that are still sucking the oil in through the intake, will not only see a performance loss, but the oil can cause detonation.
 
Originally posted by NSXEE:
Just got off the phone with Mark, who had a good point… Atlanta has many high G right hand turns, including a very long turn 12. If oil is having a hard time draining out of the rear valve cover, then that oil would travel out the hose under right handed G load. The stock hose bends up and over. I think that the late model red valve cover revised the exit location.
Mark is going to re-route his hose up and over the valve cover to a catch/breather can. I would also suggest a gradual incline with a large hose to allow drain back.
I still don’t like the over accumulation in the head, and intend on adding that drain hole in the valve cover.
I also intend on feeding the front cover to a catch can and breather; eliminating the pcv valve and plugging the vacuum line.
Those of you with higher performance engines that are still sucking the oil in through the intake, will not only see a performance loss, but the oil can cause detonation.

I am assuming you mean Mark Hicks (MH) obviously, we did his thermo today, and removed his engine bay fan to give up room to put the catch can on the passenger side. We are going to review our modified catch can setup this weekend, in even more detail.

On the "red heads" there is a PCV on the rear, up high, this would also be ideal if we just tapped the valve cover at the middle point near the top, so it would be equa-distant from either side sloshing under high cornering loads to the left or right.

thanks for the input, glad to have it!
 
A quote from Gerry Johnson-

had drilled my valve cover over 3 years ago and have not had any blo-by problems after the mods. I drilled the holes after I had removed the baffle from the underside of the cover, then I replaced the baffle with the newly drilled holes. I also plugged the original hole in the side and drilled a new hole on the top of the valve cover for a # 10 braided hose, I run that to a catch can, after the mods the only thing that I get out of the catch can is condensation.
Regards,
Gerry.

Thanks Gerry
 
OK Guys, this is what my mechanic felt was the best solution:

In a nutshell, this engine was obviously not designed to utilize forced induction. In the original configuration, vacuum would be generated and pulled through the holes in the bottom of the baffle. In forced induction applications, oil was getting above the heads and being forced into the lowest portion of the baffle where the original holes were placed. What he has done is to remove the baffle with the exception of the highest portion (where the stock crank vent resides) and drilled small holes to allow air to freely pass but for the oil to not. So far, in the limited testing we have been able to perform, we have not had any oil in the catch can or mist blowing from the K&N on the catch can like we had before. I will let you all know if this indeed is a fix for our woes.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed and a special Thank You to Paul (my mechanic) who has spent countless hours on this project and even was so kind to take these photos for me to share.

fca8f402.jpg


fca8f3f4.jpg


fca8f3ed.jpg


Best regards,

Ben
 
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