Chris, can you describe any differences in the old comptech cams they used for thier iem package vs the toda specs.
Chris, based on your link above, are you saying that the steel h-beam con rods are lighter than the OEM Ti rods? And also are you unable to balance the OEM rods?
Our rotating assembly (rod, piston, & accessories) is lighter than the factory rod, piston, & accessories. That factory rod itself compared to the 4130 is lighter, but the overall assembly (which is what counts as the rotating mass) is less.
Anyone have anymore info on toda cams? Specifically B cams. I don’t want to go stroker.
The Toda B is and aggressive cam profile and will require both a valvetrain upgrade (36mm valves, springs and retainers) and dedicated engine management. This cam (along with the C) was designed to optimize airflow for the 3.2 and 3.5 liter engines rotating beyond 8,000 rpm with ITBs, so if you want to use it on a 3.0 with the factory rev limit and induction system, you will not be able to realize the full performance gain. In that case, the Toda A or Comptech is a better calibrated choice. For the Toda B, the primary and secondary lobes are much larger than the Honda genuine cams- they have nearly as much valve lift as the VTEC lobes on the Comptech cams! (11 mm vs. 11.43 on the CT) The Toda B VTEC lobes are even bigger- 12 mm of lift! Because they effectively delete the non-VTEC fidelity on the primary and secondary lobes, the B and C cams are really for race cars. You might be able to get them to run and idle smoothly with good tuning, but it will probably not be like OEM.
I try to steer most people to the Toda A and Comptech cams for street cars. Even there, you will need supporting mods and tuning to realize the full benefit of the cams. Bolt-on with no tuning, you're looking at maybe a 20 hp gain max and you will be at 100% duty cycle on your injectors in VTEC. The NSX heads flow extremely well from the factory, so they can support additional airflow from upgraded camshafts.
Thank you for your thorough reply. I plan on doing valvetrain, ITB's, injectors and AEM for management. I can do oversized valves if that's ideal. I would rather not have to change displacement, but I don't mind doing pistons and rods if needed to raise the rev limit and maximize the cams safely. I am confident in my tuner to be able to get it running well for the street. Do you have a recommendation for compression as part of this system? Also, what is the ideal rev limit for the B cams? I know it won't be as smooth as the factory setup, but I don't mind a few hiccups here and there with idle. Thank you again for your help.
sorry to hijack the thread, has anyone ran toda type c cams with the toda 12.1 pistons? Are cam gears needed, im assuming toda cams and toda pistons should have the appropriate clearances for piston to valve contact
Definitely do the 36mm intake valves. Compression is a factor of the gas quality you have. Here in Colorado, we're stuck with 91, so I tend to stick to the factory compression. If you have regular access to high-test gas (100 RON+), IMHO you can get away with 11:1 or slightly more. I would go with the SOS pistons. As for the Toda B cams, they will produce power beyond 9,000 rpm, though at that range you likely will need to do some head porting and you will definitely need the Toda timing belt and oil pump gear. You may want to give Shad a call at Driving Ambition- he has a lot of experience with the NSX engine in race spec.