I can't believe this hasn't been covered, but my searches were futile. I just installed the SOS toe-links along with Titanium Dave's mono-ball rear beam bushings and have some advice on the installation. Toe-links first: excellent product, tolerances perfect, but these obviously have no protection against airborne dust and grit, and of course rain water. While thousands of race cars have used these and just shoot them with Break-Free or that crap WD40, sealing them up if possible only makes sense, and on a street car IMO is an absolute necessity. So I set out to design a seal and found that a company named Seals-it has been there and done that. They offer two types of seals: one that is a traditional cup type seal that is just clamped in between the heim joint and the reducer bushing, one of each side. I ordered some and they would work well in our toe links. I would recommend however that you carefully polish off the heim joint imprinted indentity markings as they will probably wear away the seal a bit. They sell for $1.95 each. As they are clamped into the "assembly", you will have to shave off the thickness of the seal from the outer surface of each reducer bushing by the thickness of the seals integral washer (looks like around .030"). But I wouldn't even go there as Seal-it has another boot product that is just plain outstanding. It is a very stretchy rubber boot that seals around the heim joint as well as both reducer bushings (it's magic!) A package of six is $28 and they work great. Just lather up the joints with wheel bearing grease and snap the boot on (which looks impossible at first). When tightening the heim joint nut on the bench, I suggest you line up the joint with the flat on the toe-link body so you can tell your alignment person to keep that flat vertical so the heim joint will be near vertical after alignment. I adjusted the toe link length on the bench to 1/4" longer than the stock length. Regarding the mono-balls, another awesome product: First, they don't come greased up, so I took them apart and greased them just a little, and don't grease the reducer bushings themselves. Make sure the bushings are turned to the outside (3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position). Take a prick punch and witness mark the edge of the bushing at the outside 3 position on one and the 9 position on the other in a manner where this mark will be visible after all is assembled. Tell your alignment tech that you have "offset bushings" in there and when he rotates the cam bolts to make sure that punch mark stays to the outside position. Vendors, feel free to use any of the above in product literature if desired. Find the seals at SEALSIT.COM or www.FASTAXLE.COM. Part # RERS3 for the boots. Pic's attached.