Transmission Removal advice-help with removing release fork?

[SWFL_NSX]

I'm in the process of removing the transmission to address a squeaky clutch pedal and some oil leaks but am having difficulty removing the transmission.

The transmission is separated from the engine block by about a finger's width, but there are 3 bolts still holding it aligned, and a transmission jack providing support. The engine is supported by a 4x4 beam across the top of the engine bay (with blankets underneath), and a hydraulic jack (with wood plank) under the oil plan. Front beam, axels, IM shaft. all removed.

Unfortunately, the release fork is not coming out! This thread indicates to remove the release fork after the trans is separated from the engine block, but the FSM gives the opposite order of operations. I fear that the transmission is now too far separated from the block to let the fork to be removed.

1. Is the release fork supposed to just pull out easily with the trans attached to the car? In it's current position I can wiggle it back and forth a little bit, but that's it.

2. I've tried to re-seat the transmission so I can try to remove the fork while the transmission is attached to the block, but I'm not getting anywhere. If re-attaching the transmission is the way to go here, any advice? I'm concerned that the input shaft is now misaligned inside the trans.

3. If the transmission won't go back in easily, is there any other way to remove the fork? I can see one of the bolts for the clutch release hanger, but it looks tough to get to, and I don't want to make things worse.

 

[jwmelvin]

I followed the service manual so I guess removed the fork before separating the trans from the engine. A finger-width gap doesn’t seem like so much, though so I’m surprised you can’t free the fork. Remove the rubber shroud; is there gap all around the fork?

On another note, your difficulty getting the trans fully into the engine is foreshadowing a good time to come. I remember that being a massive pain.

 

[SWFL_NSX]

On another note, your difficulty getting the trans fully into the engine is foreshadowing a good time to come. I remember that being a massive pain.

I wasn't looking forward to it, but didn't know I would have to do it so soon =)

Update-

After adjusting the "angle of dangle" on the transmission jack, and pushing with my legs from outside the left wheel well, the transmission slid back on easily. The clutch fork is still inside the housing but "clipped" on the edge of the opening-which I gather is the correct position for removing the transmission. I'll try to lower the trans later tonight.

Interesting side note-if it's possible to pull the release fork partially out with the transmission on the car, then it's possible to lubricate it as well. Till now I thought you could put urea grease on the cup of the fork, but not the pivot point inside.

 

[jwmelvin]

Nice work. I definitely used that move to get my trans back on, though other moves were also involved. Good luck with the rest of your process.

 

[goldNSX]

You can't remove the release fork with the tranny partially attached (like 5 or 10 cm away of the engine). You need to pull on the release fork (about 1''). Call it the 'able to take the tranny away position'. Pull the tranny, (only) after that you're able to remove the release fork completely (from the inside of the tranny housing of course).

While the tranny/engine 'marriage' don't forget to install the release fork in the tranny case FIRST BUT NOT in it's final position, pretty obvious why.

I guess you've already found out how to remount it with the help of the "angle of dangle", some force, some feel and wiggling. The hardest step is when the mainshaft has to go into the hole of the flywheel bearing. It's a small bearing, so brute force it not recommended...the right angle/position with some amount of force does it. Good luck!

 

[Mac Attack]

[MENTION=33404]SWFL_NSX[/MENTION]

That's a lot of work to go through to address squeaks and leaks. Since you have an older five-speed like mine, have you seen the following thread?
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/203689-Need-a-new-clutch-Considerations-for-older-cars-or-high-mileage-ones

 

[SWFL_NSX]

@SWFL_NSX
That's a lot of work to go through to address squeaks and leaks.

It is! We just bought a family car so I'm more inclined to sort some of this stuff.

Since you have an older five-speed like mine, have you seen the following thread?
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...derations-for-older-cars-or-high-mileage-ones

It's actually open in another tab right now. :smile:

I'm not getting any shuddering or noise from the gearbox and my axle boots are dry, but am using your thread (as well as @goldNSX 's on NSXCB) as a guide to figure out which parts to replace on the clutch side. The RMS, release fork, release hanger, axel seals, motor mounts are all likely to get replaced. My passenger axle on the inboard side was previously done, and I'll measure the clutch disk(s)to see if it needs to be replaced as well.

Do you know of anybody willing to loan out the Honda clutch alignment and ring gear holder tools? I'm familiar with using a taped-up deep well socket and a screwdriver, but would rather rent the tools if possible.

 

[goldNSX]

Miles on the car now?

 

[SWFL_NSX]

Miles on the car now?

103,xxx

The serial number is SR8M-5000124, which I believe is a snap-ring replacement housing.