Type-S vs Type-R Suspension What's what? :)

THonda said:
Which lowers the car more? Which ride softer on the street?


TIA

Per the NSX Type R Perfect Guide published by HyperRev, the NA2 NSX-R uses 10kg/mm F 8kg/mm R and the Type-S uses 8kg/mm F 6kg/mmR, so based on that the NSX-R suspension will feel stiffer than the Type-S. In regards to lowering of the car height it should be about 10mm for both 1170mm for stock suspension and 1160mm for both Type-S and NSX-R (NA1 and NA2).

There is a thread that talks about spring rates so you might want to check it out.

Good luck!

Ken
 
2slow2speed said:
Tetsuo,

I noticed that you had Tein RA's for sale in the classifieds section, the NSX-R rides a lot smoother than the RA's (I switched to the TypeR while getting the RA's rebuilt)

Ken

Ken,

I'm interested to know what you are having done to your RA's?

I am finding the RA's too stiff for our roads and tracks down here so I am thinking along the lines of replacing with type R or S suspension... However, if it is possible to rebuild the RA's... Would that be a better solution....?

Mike
 
I installed the NSX-R suspension and front anti-roll bar a couple months ago. It's terrific on the track:the car is flat in turns and braking, gets rid of the roll and dive, excellent response. I roughly measured that it lowered my 94 NSX 3/8th of an inch. It is noticeable when parked next to a stock NSX.

The progressive nature of the springs enables it to take visible pumps surprisingly well. BUT some roads have little irregularities (that you can't really see) which sets the front in motion - I find my head vibrating up and down as I drive along. A knowledgeable friend suggested that the shocks are tuned to dampen the stiffest part of the progressive springs and don't dampen the softer setting of the spring accurately. Fortunately this only lasts for a few miles until the road smooths out - but it is annoying!

Unless you are a real track junkie, you don't want this suspension. Try the Zanardi suspension. It would work well except for the most die hard trackers.
 
I went for a drive in a 91 with the Type R suspension and swaybar up front at NSXPO. The car is considerably stiffer than stock (which I have). I've been looking at the same 2 choices (type R / Zan & type S) and I have to say that the Type R handles beautifully. Without having driven a Zan or Type S car I would say that the Type R would be good for track fiends or if your local roads are in good condition. If you have rougher roads or don't track it to often the other Acura upgrades seem to be a viable option, but I'd love to drive one to see and I don't know if they lower the car significantly.
 
I got the Type R with front sway bar also, the initial reaction to this set-up is overwhelming firm! but after 1 month or 1000 miles or so. Your rear end will adj. to this, When I first installed it, I almost regret the choice, but after driving in the local mountain roads, I am glad I made the choice that I did. Will I do again? Yes, but I would get 15" 16" setup for the lightest unsprung weight. I currently run 17", 18" Volk GTC, the factory 15"16" make this car feels like a go cart! :D
 
EIFFEL said:
..............but I would get 15" 16" setup for the lightest unsprung weight. I currently run 17", 18" Volk GTC, the factory 15"16" make this car feels like a go cart! :D


Maybe so; my 94 NSX has 16/17 inch wheels. With the NSX-R suspension, I recently installed 1 cm wider Bridgestone SO3s (225/16 and 255/17) and drove at Virginia International Raceway (VIR) for three days. It is an awesome combination. I actually thought that the ride was a little smoother on highways to and from the track - but maybe my rear end is just getting used to the type R suspension as EIFFEL suggested.

I love my upgrade to 2001 NSX brake calipers with slotted rotors too. So my car is now running the NSX-type R suspension, brakes and tire widths - but is a couple hundred pounds heavier than the Japanese NSX-type R.
 
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OLDE GUY said:
So my car is now running the NSX-type R suspension, brakes and tire widths - but is a couple hundred pounds heavier.
How much of the weight increase is due to the Type R suspension?
 
AU_NSX said:
Ken,

I'm interested to know what you are having done to your RA's?

I am finding the RA's too stiff for our roads and tracks down here so I am thinking along the lines of replacing with type R or S suspension... However, if it is possible to rebuild the RA's... Would that be a better solution....?

Mike

Mike,

This is a bit OT but since you asked, I'm sending the Tein's back to TEIN USA to get the suspension tested on a dyno, I suspect that one of the shocks is probably not working optimally.

The suspension had about 73 track events and I have a tendency of riding the berms at the track. About 3 months ago I started noticing some weird handling characteristics when making left turns. While trying to determine the cause of the problem, I ended up replacing the right rear knuckle, the handling became better but still not comparable to when making right turns, so after eliminating most of the other variables I decided to get the suspension tested and possibly rebuilt if needed.

I'm not sure if revalving will alleviate things for your particular case, perhaps changing spring rates might help, but I'm not sure. I was running the 10/10 setup on my car vs the 10/12 that comes from the factory so the car rode a bit better than the standard TEIN factory setup.

Ken
 
SoCalDude said:
How much of the weight increase is due to the Type R suspension?

Ten pounds maybe - not more. The rear shocks have reserve canisters of fluid; the front anti-roll bar weights a tad more.

Actually, I was comparing my car's weight to the Japanese NSX-type R which is lighter than a U.S. NSX because of some carbon fiber parts, no spare tire, race seats, etc.

But my 1994 NSX coupe even with modifications still weights about 125 pounds less than a 1997 or later NSX - Targa and is more rigid than a targa.
 
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OLDE GUY said:
I was comparing my car's weight to the Japanese NSX-type R which is lighter than a U.S. NSX because of some carbon fiber parts, no spare tire, race seats, etc.

But my 1994 NSX even with modifications still weights about 125 pounds less than a 1997 or later NSX - Targa and is more rigid than a targa.
Some of your mods I am dying to try. My 91 has the 16/17's from a 95. I was planning on going with SO3's next in 225/40-16 & 225/40-17. The Type R suspension is also on my wish list.
 
SoCalDude said:
I was planning on going with SO3's next in 225/45-16 & 255/40-17.

I think that you will be very happy with that combinations of SO3s on the 16/17 inch rims. I am rather simplistic in my modification thinking. I have owned Porsches, been around Porsche Driver's Education events for 12 years and seen owners modify then modify again and again their car's suspensions, etc. Very costly.

Most performance drivers will be pleased to follow Honda's examples. Honda actually provides several examples of driving possibilities: stock, Zanardi, type S and type R. Choose your intended use of the car and modify accordingly. Those who enjoy hands on working on their car and adjusting shocks, changing springs, adjusting ride height, changing sway bars (front and rear, only fronts), etc., etc. will have fun trying different combinations and seeing their effects. Where I live, I can't do that - condo restrictions - and it's not my thing. I am just copying the NSX-R and hoping for the best - so far so good. And I anticipate that my total costs will be less than those who modify, then modify then modify again.
 
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OLDE GUY said:
I was comparing my car's weight to the Japanese NSX-type R which is lighter than a U.S. NSX because of some carbon fiber parts, no spare tire, race seats, etc.

But my 1994 NSX even with modifications still weights about 125 pounds less than a 1997 or later NSX - Targa and is more rigid than a targa.

Hi Bill,

Please don't rub it in, I wish that I had a coupe instead of my squeaking targa, just kidding.. :)

BTW: How much of a weight reduction effort have you undertaken? you can get about 50~60 lbs off the car without a lot of work. (engine cover, spare tire removal, toolkit removal, smaller/lighter battery)

Ken :D
 
Ken - I haven't done much. On the track I of course remove the spare tire, tools and air pump. I am putting on the Compteck headers in two weeks and hope to have a lighter exhaust one day. Then some day Recaro sport seats and harnesses.

Gary Yates (NCDogDoc) has removed 400 pounds from his track NSX and it is very fast (with only 270 HP) and brakes incredibly well. Weight is the devil when it comes to performance.
 
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Please don't rub it in, I wish that I had a coupe instead of my squeaking targa, just kidding..

Is that true that if you removed the top, you wouldn't hear the squeaking and also 10 lbs lighter (I'm not sure how much the top weight, but should be pretty light..) I had a 91 so I really don't know anything about the T.

New Question, what if i Just want to lower the car for looks FIRST & Handling second?
What would you go with?

You should not even looking at Type S / R , Tein, or coilovers, they are more gear (valving and spring rate) to the track driving and even smooth Japanese Roads.

We had a lot of owners switching their springs to the Eibach springs which lower 1.5 inches. Bilstein w/ its built in lower perch, you may even go lower than that... Koni shocks are usually a little softer than the Bilstein, but I'm not sure about the one they made for nsx though. There's also a H&R Cup kit that Tirerack sales, AaronR used to have it on his car and based on his answers to my PM, it's not harsh at all. I also thinks that the setup is not as spendy as others. ($800 if I remembered right.)
 
OLDE GUY said:
Ken - I haven't done much. On the track I of course remove the spare tire, tools and air pump. I am putting on the Compteck headers in two weeks and hope to have a lighter exhaust one day. Then some day Recaro sport seats and harnesses.

Gary Yates (NCDogDoc) has removed 400 pounds from his track NSX and it is very fast (with only 270 HP) and brakes incredibly well. Weight is the devil when it comes to performance.

Yep,

I saw Gary's car at NSXPO last year, it looked like a car that was recovered after being stolen and stripped. I was amazed that he was not stopped by the friendly LE folks here in CA, even the tires on his car looked like beater tires :D. (Just giving Gary a hard time)

From what I recall he is only running the Comptech Pro suspension on his daily driver and the OEM setup on the Track Rat.

Ken
 
NSXDreamer2 said:
There's also a H&R Cup kit that Tirerack sales, AaronR used to have it on his car and based on his answers to my PM, it's not harsh at all. I also thinks that the setup is not as spendy as others. ($800 if I remembered right.)
I'm interested in how the setup of the H&R Cup Kit's like. Please tell us more. :)
 
2slow2speed said:
..............From what I recall he is only running the Comptech Pro suspension on his daily driver and the OEM setup on the Track Rat.

Ken

Pretty close, Ken. I was running the stock suspension on the rat at Sear's, but the Comptech Pro was in the box waiting to go on. I have run the Pro setup on my street car which normally has Koni Yellows, and it was actually a better setup. Only drawback was noise from all metal bushings.

The pro setup on the track is fabuloso(sp)!!!!!

I would not choose the Type R setup for a street car, but can see how it would be great in the canyons or on the track. I think the Showa dampers with constant rate springs would be better. JMHO.
 
goldNSX said:
Thanks for your input. It's always astonishing how prices differ on the marktes. In Switzerland the same Cup kit is listed with $ 1900 (no joke). :(

will they be the same cup kit?? I found it hard to believe, maybe you should order it and then use the money you saved for a trip to next year nsxpo :p
 
NSXDreamer2 said:
will they be the same cup kit?? I found it hard to believe, maybe you should order it and then use the money you saved for a trip to next year nsxpo :p
Unfortunately the price is for the same kit. :( Really hard to believe I know. But i have one more example: I bought a set of wheels in the United States for £ 1700 which are not available in Switzerland as most of the parts for the NSX. We would have to pay more than 4000 here I guess. The lesson told to us is that governmental market protection (we need a certificate for suspension parts etc. from a Swiss importer that these parts are safe *ridiculous*) is bad and we're paying for that. :(
Maybe, with all the money spend on additional parts I can attend to the NSXPO the hole lifetime. :)
 
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