What do you guys think of these NSX's for sale?

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15 February 2012
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Hey guys I am currently in the market for a NSX. There aren't too many for sale but I have no idea where to start.

Is there a specific year model you guys would recommend? I guess preferably the year with the least problems.

My budget is anywhere from 35-40k or so. Looking for one preferably under 60K miles..


What do you guys think of this one? I'm usually never interested in "Rebuilt" titles but this car looks amazing and i'm curious to see if the owner of this car is on this forum? Here is a link to the ebay Auction

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rare...6010389?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1c23945e95


These are a few others i'm interested in

http://www.ecarlist.com/showroom/1658/photos/2627093#19

this one is stunning as well

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=53&standard=false

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...e=b&num_records=25&cardist=566&standard=false


http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...e=b&num_records=25&cardist=346&standard=false

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=30&standard=false

Any advice is appreciated guys, This will be my daily driver. I'm looking for a reliable / fun / unique daily driver. I currently have 2010 GTR but driving it everyday can be a pain in some situations..

Also would like to note im planning on keeping NSX very long term and planning on turboing it as well :)
 
Welcome:smile: Check out the wiki...lots of good info there.

The early cars 91-94 are usually better suited for mods...thicker cyl sleeves, OBD1 diagnostics. They are also the lightest.

Typical buying thought process starts with whether you want a coupe or NSX-T. Coupes have ~1" more headroom and stiffer chassis. That narrows things down substantially.

I am not a fan of rebuilt titles, but mostly because I care about resale value.

I think I like the Sebring Silver '91 the best...but the asking price is a little high.
 
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Welcome:smile: Check out the wiki...lots of good info there.

The early cars 91-94 are usually better suited for mods...thicker cyl sleeves, OBD1 diagnostics. They are also the lightest.

Typical buying thought process starts with whether you want a coupe or NSX-T. Coupes have ~1" more headroom and stiffer chassis. That narrows things down substancially.

I am not a fan of rebuilt titles, but mostly because I care about resale value.

Thanks for the tips :)

I wouldn't mind settling with a 91-94 if they are better suited for mods. I guess i somehow got the impression the newer ones 97+ are more reliable since they are newer and what not.

I can't seem to tell much a difference aesthetically from the 90's NSX's to the 2000's NSX's..

I much rather prefer the T top on the NSX, I had a 300ZX Targa top and I loved it. I'm sure the stiffer chassis on the coupe isn't a huge differnence compared to the Targa top NSX's.

I also care about resale values I might just pick one up with clean titles, I'm just a bit concerned with reliability picking one up with over 60K on the clock..
 
Thanks for the tips :)

I wouldn't mind settling with a 91-94 if they are better suited for mods. I guess i somehow got the impression the newer ones 97+ are more reliable since they are newer and what not.

I can't seem to tell much a difference aesthetically from the 90's NSX's to the 2000's NSX's..

I much rather prefer the T top on the NSX, I had a 300ZX Targa top and I loved it. I'm sure the stiffer chassis on the coupe isn't a huge differnence compared to the Targa top NSX's.

I also care about resale values I might just pick one up with clean titles, I'm just a bit concerned with reliability picking one up with over 60K on the clock..

Sure thing :)

You should drive both before you make that determination. The NSX-T does flex quite a bit and the top tends to squeak now and then.

If you do decide you want a NSX-T then you need to find a 1995+

The older models are just as reliable as the newer ones. There were many more produced also making them more available. Several NSXs on these boards have gone 200K+ miles and some are tracked regularly!

Take a look at this...to see the differences in year. 1991-2001 all have the same body. 2002+ went to the "bug eye" head lights.

http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Changes_by_Year
 
I'm planning on keeping NSX very long term and planning on turboing it as well :)

You said you want a Targa... and are gonna turbo it

options:
91-94
95-96
97-01
02-05

figure out whether you want the NA1 or NA2 engine
then whether you want a 5 speed or 6 speed transmission
then whether you want OBD I or OBD II
then whether you want the Targa
then what colors you want
your price range is going to adjust your target
then find the car that fits your target (good luck)
then set aside 5K for fix its
then set aside 10K-15K for turbo setup and tuning
then set aside wheel/tire money
then set aside cool parts money

then drive it like you stole it :biggrin:
 
Thanks you guys all have helpful information.

Finding the perfect NSX for me might be next to impossible.

NA1 / NA2 engine doesn't really matter to me, 20hp and 10tq isn't a huge concern to me since I plan on turboing it later down the line.

My concern is out 91-2005 do they all "handle" the same? I know the Targa tops don't handle as good as the coupes. I'm just curious if a Coupe from 91 will handle just as good as a coupe from 2001.

Also I read this article thoroughly

http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Changes_by_Year

Seems like so many changes were made throughout the years! Except aesthetically of course, it makes me wonder if they all "Drive" differently. I would go and test drive all of them one by one if i could..

I don't plan on tracking my car at all, just the occasional spirited drive :) I love taking sharp/tight turns going to the Canyons and stuff.

I noticed in 94 - Gear cut method changed to reduce gear noise

Does this change make a huge difference in gear noise?

There's so many questions to be asked.. I will continue to search around the forum for answers.
 
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Concentrate on condition, not mileage. These things will run forever.

and I agree, I couldn't live without my targa!
 
I like the first red one you posted, with 20Kish miles.

The last one you posted, the autotrader one which was also red, has had its front end repainted and I wouldn't trust that 2003 to have a clean title.

Like others have said, the wiki has some good info. A buyer's guide is a good idea.
 
NA1 / NA2 engine doesn't really matter to me, 20hp and 10tq isn't a huge concern to me since I plan on turboing it later down the line.

My concern is out 91-2005 do they all "handle" the same? I know the Targa tops don't handle as good as the coupes. I'm just curious if a Coupe from 91 will handle just as good as a coupe from 2001.

Seems like so many changes were made throughout the years! Except aesthetically of course, it makes me wonder if they all "Drive" differently. I would go and test drive all of them one by one if i could..

I don't plan on tracking my car at all, just the occasional spirited drive :) I love taking sharp/tight turns going to the Canyons and stuff.

I noticed in 94 - Gear cut method changed to reduce gear noise

Does this change make a huge difference in gear noise?
If you don't care about engine size and aren't going to track it .. just 'spirited drives', then aside from the earlier comments about T-tops, they all drive about the same .. with the exception of the transmission. Many people seem to prefer the 6-sp over the 5-sp and think it's much more responsive. The gear cut thing is unnoticeable.

As someone who bought a '91 with 90k miles already on it from a guy who tracked it .. and then put on another 90k miles myself, my advice to you is that good maintenance records are more important than mileage. And, since the first major service interval is at 7 years or about 80k miles, make sure you're not buying one just before the service interval ..unless they've discounted it because of that. If the records are good, consider spending a little more for one that has recently had the work done .. and maybe even a new clutch if you're lucky. And I'm not a fan of low mileage ones .. I'd much rather have one that was daily driven and well maintained.
Good luck.
 
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If you don't care about engine size and aren't going to track it .. just 'spirited drives', then aside from the earlier comments about T-tops, they all drive about the same .. with the exception of the transmission. Many people seem to prefer the 6-sp over the 5-sp and think it's much more responsive. The gear cut thing is unnoticeable.

As someone who bought a '91 with 90k miles already on it from a guy who tracked it .. and then put on another 90k miles myself, my advice to you is that good maintenance records are more important than mileage. And, since the first major service interval is at 7 years or about 80k miles, make sure you're not buying one just before the service interval ..unless they've discounted it because of that. If the records are good, consider spending a little more for one that has recently had the work done .. and maybe even a new clutch if you're lucky. And I'm not a fan of low mileage ones .. I'd much rather have one that was daily driven and well maintained.
Good luck.

Great advice and tips thanks! I figured the 6-sp transmission would be better. I will definitely look for one where the owner cared enough to keep all the service records. The 7 year 80k mile service.. is that the timing belt? Did you mention that specific service since it is the most expensive one?

I actually called this guy a few minutes ago

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=53&standard=false

Hes local to me, he claims to have over $20K in records of servicing the car and stuff. The ad says it has a Science of Speed transmission which is around $7K according to him. He mentioned it previously had the snap ring issue in the transmission which is why he had it replaced about a year ago.. Only has about 59,000 miles and still on the original clutch of course. He has owned it for 6 years, the fact that he kept all the records (which he says ) is a huge plus for me, i would have to see them in person to know for sure. I asked him if he was aware of the site and he said he was but he did not lurk around here much, i figured he did if he had chose to go with a Science of Speed transmission. He also mentioned something about having a NSX-R transmission, not sure if certain parts were from the NSX-R or something but he claimed it had 40 more HP then your average NSX and drove way different than any other NSX.. I'm just not sure if 35K for a 91 59K miles NSX is a good price? He mentioned the paint is in good condition but there ARE some rock chips in the front of the car, no surprise here.

Any more helpful tips and buying advice is greatly appreciated, if you guys have any other comments in regards to making a good/smart NSX purchase please do let me know :) Thanks again guys
 
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Also, if you're looking at the one in the second Autotrader link, you might want to check out this discussion: http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155458


Oh wow good catch! No longer interested in that one haha. Im almost 99% sure anyone who doesn't mention they have a Clean/Clear title means it DOESN'T have a Clean/Clear title..

Hard to tell these days when even stuff gets by Carfax..
 
FYI, with a few mods, a Targa can be stiffened up quite nicely for under 1K

Since it hasn't been mentioned yet...

When you do get serious about a particular NSX, do your due diligence, and get a full scope Pre-Purchase Inspection with compression test from a qualified NSX mechanic of YOUR choice.

We hate reading posts about how you SHOULD have done a PPI.

+1 to what Ric said... buy the best that you can afford
 
FYI, with a few mods, a Targa can be stiffened up quite nicely for under 1K

Since it hasn't been mentioned yet...

When you do get serious about a particular NSX, do your due diligence, and get a full scope Pre-Purchase Inspection with compression test from a qualified NSX mechanic of YOUR choice.

We hate reading posts about how you SHOULD have done a PPI.

+1 to what Ric said... buy the best that you can afford

Very sound advice...PPI with a reputable NSX tech. You should ask for a leak down compression test also.

Maintenance records are paramount to reduce the guess work on deferred maiintenance. There are a lot of cars out there needing TB/WP based on time not mileage.
 
Great advice and tips thanks! I figured the 6-sp transmission would be better. I will definitely look for one where the owner cared enough to keep all the service records. The 7 year 80k mile service.. is that the timing belt? Did you mention that specific service since it is the most expensive one?

I actually called this guy a few minutes ago

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=53&standard=false

Hes local to me, he claims to have over $20K in records of servicing the car and stuff. The ad says it has a Science of Speed transmission which is around $7K according to him. He mentioned it previously had the snap ring issue in the transmission which is why he had it replaced about a year ago.. Only has about 59,000 miles and still on the original clutch of course. He has owned it for 6 years, the fact that he kept all the records (which he says ) is a huge plus for me, i would have to see them in person to know for sure. I asked him if he was aware of the site and he said he was but he did not lurk around here much, i figured he did if he had chose to go with a Science of Speed transmission. He also mentioned something about having a NSX-R transmission, not sure if certain parts were from the NSX-R or something but he claimed it had 40 more HP then your average NSX and drove way different than any other NSX.. I'm just not sure if 35K for a 91 59K miles NSX is a good price? He mentioned the paint is in good condition but there ARE some rock chips in the front of the car, no surprise here.

Any more helpful tips and buying advice is greatly appreciated, if you guys have any other comments in regards to making a good/smart NSX purchase please do let me know :) Thanks again guys

The SOS tranny is most likely their NSX-R short gears and for that price had better have the 4.23 final drive. Even then, that sounds a little high price including the install and you never expect to recoup all the investment. I did the same change to my car because of the snap ring issue. It definitly doesn't give you 40 more HP but keeps you in V-TEC during shifts and gives it a lot more pep. Getting rid of that stock exhaust for a better flow one will increase your 40HP. I think that price is a little high and should be negotiated down some for a fairly stock NSX. Good luck!

Here's the tranny:

http://scienceofspeed.com/products/...SX/ScienceofSpeed/transmissions/custom_5-spd/

Agree 1000% on the PPI always!
 
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Excellent info, I also have been looking for awhile. Just one question for some one that had purchased a car, how was the owner when asked to let someone unknown do a PPI to there car? Good luck on your future purchase. I have found a 96 with a ctsc on it and have been working with owner. I am not completly sold on the targa top. I have a first year Stingray roadster and don't really need another car that the top comes off.
 
Having owned a 93, 95 and 2000, my advice would be to find a 97. The 6 speed is much better IMO. The targa is nice to have.

Add a love fab and a little suspension work and you will be very happy.

I highly recommend a ppi, compression and leak down test if you plan to go turbo.
 
Excellent info, I also have been looking for awhile. Just one question for some one that had purchased a car, how was the owner when asked to let someone unknown do a PPI to there car? Good luck on your future purchase. I have found a 96 with a ctsc on it and have been working with owner. I am not completly sold on the targa top. I have a first year Stingray roadster and don't really need another car that the top comes off.

Usually owners expects to have a PPI performed at the Buyers expense. The buyer chooses who does it within a reasonable geographic area near the seller. If the seller doesn't like the person, then select a mechanic that both parties trust.
 
If the seller refuses a PPI, run away quickly...they are hiding something.

And, make sure the PPI mechanic knows NSX's well. Mine was done at my Acura dealership and their "NSX Tech" said my car was NOT in the snap-ring range (according to my VIN #, which I later found out is a worthless way to tell). Two years later, when my snap-ring broke, the dealership got to buy me a new tranny :tongue: (R-Type) since luckily they put the non-snap ring in writing.
 
If the seller refuses a PPI, run away quickly...they are hiding something.

And, make sure the PPI mechanic knows NSX's well. Mine was done at my Acura dealership and their "NSX Tech" said my car was NOT in the snap-ring range (according to my VIN #, which I later found out is a worthless way to tell). Two years later, when my snap-ring broke, the dealership got to buy me a new tranny :tongue: (R-Type) since luckily they put the non-snap ring in writing.

How much does as PPI usually cost? I'm in socal hopefully it isn't a problem finding a NSX tech around here.
 
Glad to see you active on the boards lately :) I agree, if they don't want to allow a PPI then it isnt good.

Great Story...I bet the dealer couldn't believe that they had made such a bonehead move. Serves them right for not doing the research to properly ascertain which models were affected.


If the seller refuses a PPI, run away quickly...they are hiding something.

And, make sure the PPI mechanic knows NSX's well. Mine was done at my Acura dealership and their "NSX Tech" said my car was NOT in the snap-ring range (according to my VIN #, which I later found out is a worthless way to tell). Two years later, when my snap-ring broke, the dealership got to buy me a new tranny :tongue: (R-Type) since luckily they put the non-snap ring in writing.
 
How much does as PPI usually cost? I'm in socal hopefully it isn't a problem finding a NSX tech around here.

Around $150-$200 you have to ask for the compression test, its usually not included.
 
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