Made an appointment to get my 2022 NSX type S oil changed. Car has 300 plus miles. Local dealer said they would have the filter and the NSX mechanic ready. When I arrived, he said we don't have the filter and I wouldn't change the the oil and filter. Manual says to change the oil at 1 year and oil and filter at 2 years. Service manager said he wouldn't waste $500 to get it done as the synthetic doesn't spoil. My inclination is to get it done, if for no other reason than warranty may depend on it. Can anyone weigh in here? Thanks.
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When to get first oil change ?
- Thread starter RAD-NSX
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This question is a bit of controversy because we have verified cases of dealer NSX-trained and certified techs telling owners to just follow the maintenance minder and not worry about time. These are techs who were trained at the PMC by the folks who designed and built the engines. At the same time, there is some Acura literature (a footnote I think) that says to change it at 1 year no matter what.
I tend to follow the 1-year mark on all my cars not because I think the oil will suddenly turn to sludge on day 366, but because of the contaminants it picks up: water, PCV blowby vapor and fuel (twin turbo cars are especially prone to gasoline contamination). I'm sure the synth oil would last 10 years or more before chemically breaking down, but it's more about keeping clean oil in there.
That said, there are many NC1s on this forum that use both methods and are running just fine.
YMMV
I tend to follow the 1-year mark on all my cars not because I think the oil will suddenly turn to sludge on day 366, but because of the contaminants it picks up: water, PCV blowby vapor and fuel (twin turbo cars are especially prone to gasoline contamination). I'm sure the synth oil would last 10 years or more before chemically breaking down, but it's more about keeping clean oil in there.
That said, there are many NC1s on this forum that use both methods and are running just fine.
YMMV
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My car is 6 1/2 years old with 14K miles on it.
My service advisor says go by the computer.
I think the car has had 3 oil and filter changes.
I keep asking about other stiff and he says the closest thing to being done is the cabin air filter.
It did have the 12V battery replaced prior to it reaching 4 years old.
My service advisor says go by the computer.
I think the car has had 3 oil and filter changes.
I keep asking about other stiff and he says the closest thing to being done is the cabin air filter.
It did have the 12V battery replaced prior to it reaching 4 years old.
I'm 100% comfortable going with the maintenance minder. I decided to change it myself as I really hate letting others work on it unless totally necessary. It was a satisfying project but there is no way to do seven plugs without making a bit of a mess. I can't remember what miles I was at with 10% oil life left. Around 7,500 maybe.
I hear you but our cars have a problem in that respect. When you jack up the car the only place to put a jack stand is one of the two reinforced jack points. So it is hard to get the car up high enough to work on it. You have to be careful around the jack points as the floor is really thin and partially carbon fiber. About the only way I understand you can do much is with a lift or a large scissor type lift. If anyone has a different take please educate me. I have driven it on a ramp front or rear, then jacked up each side with a jack 9left each jack in place). How do you place stands?
‘Someone once pointed out a special stand that is used in the initial lift and then it allows you to remove the jack leaving a stand in place. I forgot the manufacture? Found it https://jackpointjackstands.com/
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wheel stands are fine if you don't have to take the wheels off. You can build some workable stands out of wood. The only thing to worry about with those makeshift stands in that pic is the risk of the car rolling off, which can be fixed with a better design.
Here is something I built decades ago, before I got a lift. Made out of 2x4 and 2x12 lumber:
Here is something I built decades ago, before I got a lift. Made out of 2x4 and 2x12 lumber:
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I actually purchased a pair. They do help getting the car up. I would like to be able to put the car up so that I can work on the wheels. Right now I have to do one wheel at a time. I did find this. RennStand Jack Stand
I purchased a first Gen NSX scissor Jack which is light weight aluminum. I carry it in my rear trunk area of the second Gen car. I would only use it in an emergency Of course. I tried it out on both the front and rear lift point. I was trying to find some literature that gives its max lifting weight. But no luck.
The pieces of wood in my picture are all screwed together, so they are a solid block basically. With the parking brake on, I was pushing like crazy and it was immovable. The reason I went this route was the issue of where to place the jack stand while jacking up using the pinch weld block (I know it isn't a pinch weld).
Thank you for the safety reminder.
Thank you for the safety reminder.
I really like your design. I was thinking of making something similar for my NSX to facilitate torqueing the suspension bolts, which should be done under body weight.
To add to the original post, Direct Injection, turbo engines are famous for oil delusion and oil contamination.
however,
According to Acura, the original oil has a molly in it for some break in and should be there for 5000 miles, 8000 kms. (~50%)
Any oil analysis I have seen from an NC1 engine oil, there never seems to be anything like fuel in the oil, Personally, I waited until I was at 8000kms for the first oil change. (oil was still very clear)
quick-jacks 7000 series for the win:
however,
According to Acura, the original oil has a molly in it for some break in and should be there for 5000 miles, 8000 kms. (~50%)
Any oil analysis I have seen from an NC1 engine oil, there never seems to be anything like fuel in the oil, Personally, I waited until I was at 8000kms for the first oil change. (oil was still very clear)
quick-jacks 7000 series for the win:
Attachments
Our engines have two injectors per cylinder which insures that oil gunk is not built up on the valve train.
It is also a very precise burn insuring that the cylinder walls are not awash with fuel.
Both my oil analysis that were done did not indicate excessive water or fuel dilution. I could have easily driven more miles before the change. It comes down to convenience and time for me personally.
Our engines have oil additives that protect the engine while allowing the rings to break in. I don’t recall ever reading any documentation from Acura suggesting or stating that 5000 miles represents a milestone event. As they say show me the beef.
It is also a very precise burn insuring that the cylinder walls are not awash with fuel.
Both my oil analysis that were done did not indicate excessive water or fuel dilution. I could have easily driven more miles before the change. It comes down to convenience and time for me personally.
Our engines have oil additives that protect the engine while allowing the rings to break in. I don’t recall ever reading any documentation from Acura suggesting or stating that 5000 miles represents a milestone event. As they say show me the beef.
I'm programmed to change the oil in all of my cars every November so I started making the appointments. Sadly, sometimes it's the only time I've driven them all year. I do an oil change, lookover, detail and tuck back away for winter. I prefer to use the dealers or a local Indy as it records to Carfax and I like the records for my binders that I make on all the cars. Plus it substantiates the mileage. Got me thinking about the Type S.
FWIW, I recently spoke to Acura and was told not to change the oil until the maintenance minder told me to. I remembered talking to the engine builder at Anna engine plant and was pretty sure that was what he told my wife and I. Being the nut I am, I followed up again as my memory is hazy at best.
The response was as follow,
"You are correct that Anna puts special break in oil in the NSX engines and if the oil is changed too quickly it could negatively impact how the engine breaks in. Our recommendation is to go ahead and run your NSX until it reaches the Maintenance Minder indication to change the oil, and then change it at that point.
Hopefully this helps and you feel comfortable running her several more miles!!"
FWIW, I recently spoke to Acura and was told not to change the oil until the maintenance minder told me to. I remembered talking to the engine builder at Anna engine plant and was pretty sure that was what he told my wife and I. Being the nut I am, I followed up again as my memory is hazy at best.
The response was as follow,
"You are correct that Anna puts special break in oil in the NSX engines and if the oil is changed too quickly it could negatively impact how the engine breaks in. Our recommendation is to go ahead and run your NSX until it reaches the Maintenance Minder indication to change the oil, and then change it at that point.
Hopefully this helps and you feel comfortable running her several more miles!!"
Yes, that is great information and would give someone piece of mind. My only add to that is how much time has gone by. So as an example if you rarely drive your car, say 100 miles per year, the maintenance minder may not suggest changing the oil for some period of time. I think you have to imagine what Acura thought a typical year's worth of mileage would be. I can recall years back when you could lease a NSX. The mileage limit was typically 7500 per year or less. So someone who drives 50 miles per year would wait a decade for the maintenance minder? Just thinking out loud. In the end it is what ever someone is comfortable with.
Here are some soundbites and links to prior discussion on how we understand Honda's oil life calculation:
- Oil life monitoring is INDIRECT. Oil condition itself isn't directly measured, and other/related factors are used to calculate/interpret remaining oil life.
- Electronic sensors send info on engine rpm/speed, ambient/engine temperature, coolant temperature, number of starts/stops, drive time, drive style (time throttle is open), and engine timing/load. Every drive cycle (on/off) is tracked, rather than an 'average' driving style.
- Short trips, frequent stop/go (city driving) and hilly terrain cause higher engine temperature (and shorten oil life). These were formerly called "severe" driving conditions, but are now included as part of the calculation.
- Different modes (EV/Econ/Normal/Sport) affect engine use and are tracked as output from electronic sensors in the drivetrain.
- The car's computer tracks/logs these key factors affecting oil life (until reset). It runs the factors through a mathematical algorithm to predict conditions for oil life degradation, and the resulting 'remaining oil life' value is posted for the driver in the maintenance minder area.
- The algorithm includes a "time counter" to complement the sensor readings, to ensure low-mileage drivers change their oil after 1 year (even if driving conditions or sensor measurement doesn't trigger).
I asked the engine builders at the Anna, OH engine plant as "The Kid" did, they told me that time does not matter, you want that oil in the engine until 20% or lower. I picked up my car at the dealer on 2/18/2022, I have 8,400 miles on it now. I am replacing the air filters this weekend with K&N air filters, I will make an appointment by the end of the month for the oil change. My oil is currently at 15%, I will change the oil annually in February after this first oil change. of the 8,400 miles, about 4,800 is highway mileage, no track days.
I am not sure about the brake fluid, transmission fluid or differential fluid, maybe do all 3 when I get the oil changed in February next year. If anyone has any information about the brake, differential or transmission fluid I would appreciate it.
I am not sure about the brake fluid, transmission fluid or differential fluid, maybe do all 3 when I get the oil changed in February next year. If anyone has any information about the brake, differential or transmission fluid I would appreciate it.
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My service advisor says go by the car's computer for the oil and filter changes.
My car is over 7 years old with about 15,000 miles, no track days.
My service advisor has not recommended other fluid changes even though I have asked (multiple times).
Some folks here have opted for such fluid changes which makes sense to me.
My car is over 7 years old with about 15,000 miles, no track days.
My service advisor has not recommended other fluid changes even though I have asked (multiple times).
Some folks here have opted for such fluid changes which makes sense to me.
I'm at 40% and 4500 miles. Was going to service it when I did my downpipes and some other little things
