Which version of CTSC
- Thread starter 4AU4LIFE
- Start date
Autorotor, the newer version. I have the old whipple one.:frown:
AutoRotor (Targa)
Is the new version that much better than the old?
I was told its more efficient, little more hp, doesn’t get as HOT or make the car temp go up on prolonged track usage..... A person who drove mine which has the NEW one and his the whipple. Same year cars (92) minus he had headers and I didn’t....He said my car pulled better down low then his....I didn’t drive his....(headers may have moved his power curve up a bit....) Not Sure.... His boost gauge said 5.7 (peak 6.5) while mine was at 5.9 and spiked to 8.0 at times (real brief)....We both had low boost....... LAYMEN --
I also was told if I had the old its no point in buying the new. But If i had the choice of picking a used Whipple for 5k vs the autorotor for 7k...get the later.....Choice I had before I got a car with one already in it....
Off topic..But another prime member told me going high boost for 3500 more bucks....made a difference, but wasnt worth it to him... He stated he should have just spent his money on BELT TENSIONER and OIL Blow off off and called it a day for 110.00 ......................
Debating should I add headers to my CTSC install now....if my car doesnt sell anytime soon...
I also was told if I had the old its no point in buying the new. But If i had the choice of picking a used Whipple for 5k vs the autorotor for 7k...get the later.....Choice I had before I got a car with one already in it....
Off topic..But another prime member told me going high boost for 3500 more bucks....made a difference, but wasnt worth it to him... He stated he should have just spent his money on BELT TENSIONER and OIL Blow off off and called it a day for 110.00 ......................
Debating should I add headers to my CTSC install now....if my car doesnt sell anytime soon...
That is kinda where I'm at.
Looking at possibly selling my current one and one that I have my eye on looks like this.
Just not sure if I feel comfortable getting back into the FI realm.
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So pretty much it produces less heat, uses less HP to run the SC(in turn gaining some of the HP you lost to run the whipple) cool.
I assume then that an a/m engine management system isn't required on the new style blower either?
With Low Boost its Plug and Play....NO AEM or ECU upgrade needed
I have known one Guy who ran HIGH Boost without AEM--He used an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reg to adjust. I do not know how it worked out for him. Havent seen him on the board for a while... THE AEM is the expensive part of the HIGH BOOST Set up which keeps my finger off the trigggggggggger.... With the scare of what it might do if not TUNED properly...
I have electric A/F and Boost Gauge which keep me SANE and not on a DYNO every 3 months........... When my belt slipped I knew right away from GTECH reading paired with Gauge... Only draw back is real world testing...
I have known one Guy who ran HIGH Boost without AEM--He used an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reg to adjust. I do not know how it worked out for him. Havent seen him on the board for a while... THE AEM is the expensive part of the HIGH BOOST Set up which keeps my finger off the trigggggggggger.... With the scare of what it might do if not TUNED properly...
I have electric A/F and Boost Gauge which keep me SANE and not on a DYNO every 3 months........... When my belt slipped I knew right away from GTECH reading paired with Gauge... Only draw back is real world testing...
If car is NA2 and is claimed to be putting 375 RWHP would you estimate that to be hi or low boost?
The good one :biggrin:
if its autorotor I would guess LOW....But I could be wrong....
LOW BOOST with the recommended mods IMO
HIGH Boost should put you at 400hp give or take 5 - 10 hp (assuming headers exh, aem and tuned)
Reference
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103538
Low Boost on my CtSC NA1 on dyno avg was 349 rwhp ---No Headers/Uni Filter/GTLW EXh
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This is what I have. For me it's hi-boost, but it's a misnomer. 'hi-boost' on 3.2 is really 7PSI max. 'lo-boost' on Autorotor is 8PSI.. even 9 PSI at times.
Dyno comparisons with Whipple & Autorotor shows that the torque curve is higher earlier and longer but, in my configuration, I still made PEAK 30-40RWHP vs my buddy's. I think this is because of tuning...
With my 98 & his 91, we were about dead-even on 30-60, 75, but after that, it was game over and I went by a few car lenghts...
In other words, both are great kits and you can't go wrong.
-A well tuned Whipple low or 'hi' boost will hold it's own agaisnt Autorotor and win in the hi-boost case imho.
-A well tuned Autorotor should spank a Whipple by probably at least 25RWHP with same conditions.
-A stock Autorotor > stock Whipple.
-'Hi' boost Whipple PSI ~= Autorotor PSI (and I'll argue Autorotor more!) and by extension, as safe or even safer.
--EG: Don't get mislead by "hi-boost" - it's not.
NA2 already has very efficient exhaust manifolds so is there anything to be gained by having those also.
It also is supposed to have cold air intake, although I'm not sure the specifics on that though.
I haven't discussed with the owner if it is the 'Hi' or 'Low' boost kit as I'm in the very early stages of looking at this car.
YOU WOULD THINK that if it is a 'Hi' boost that would benefit the owner to have an engine management system in place that they would have done that correct? Especially if you are putting so much $$ into the s/c anyway, you might as well make it 'safe' power.
It also is supposed to have cold air intake, although I'm not sure the specifics on that though.
I haven't discussed with the owner if it is the 'Hi' or 'Low' boost kit as I'm in the very early stages of looking at this car.
YOU WOULD THINK that if it is a 'Hi' boost that would benefit the owner to have an engine management system in place that they would have done that correct? Especially if you are putting so much $$ into the s/c anyway, you might as well make it 'safe' power.
I would think he would have AEM if he has HIGH BOOST. Expensive lesson to learn here if he doesnt. With the Bigger Injectors needed, someting has to change the A/F. The stock ECu will try, but was it really designed for the HI BOOST FI...............LIL things like BIG Throttle BODY, EXHAUST, HEADERS--- PLAY A bigger role in an FI car then a stock....IMO............. Cold air intake was robbing me of power down low, once the car got to reg operating temp.....The car felt faster, but it was due to the powerband dropping then rising again. Once I went back to oem and UNI....Power Band didnt dip up to the tested 7600 rpm. I thought of changing the ECU and moving the REV LIMITER up some....But i am rarely at 6500 rpm in 1st gear. Their is so much more power down low, that i dont feel the need to redline the car in any gear.
I stilll have oem exh manifold, so I am sure the NA2 Header system is better then what I have, from what I read. When I drive the car daily the speed and power is predictable. However after not driving for 2 weeks, she always put a grin back on my face. I have not went forward with the headers, for I hate spending 2k just to feel a marginal difference.
Well, this all might be a mute point now. The vehicle I was looking at might be going somewhere other than my garage.:frown:
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