What is the easiest way to change the transmission oil? Read a few topics in the forum. But my question is how are you to supposed to properly fill back the oil w/o having the car raised and level? Don't have a lift.
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transmission oil change
- Thread starter silver-one
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Use 4 jack stands. The car will then be level when you go to fill it up with new fluid. You MUST jack the car up somehow, unless you are a midget or are very flexible.
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2.9 quarts is the magic number. Just guessimate on the third bottle or get a measuring cup to be precise.
i recommend you purchase a set of jack stands and jack.
if you really want to save the 50$,
this is the most ghetto way i can think of.
you can drive the car up on the curb on the passenger side so that the driver side is lower then the passenger side.
depending on your mid drift circumference :biggrin:, you'll have enough room to crawl under the car and lossen up the drain bolt.
For that bolt, place a 3/8 inch wrench on it. You might need to hit it with your hand to crack the bolt loose.
Let it drain.
Place the bolt back in.
While your under there, use a 17mm socket and open up the fill bolt.
Now push your car back down the ramp so that the car is level.
From the top, take off your air filter box. Place a funnel with long tube into the filler hole.
Fill till fluid leaks out. Screw in the fill plug and tighten.
Install air box.
getting real creative, that's how it can be done..... in my head. :biggrin:
much better to get jack and stand.
If you only have 2 stand, you'll need to put the car down on the ground so the tranny is level and fill it in from the top.
If you have 4, you can have the car level in the air and pump in the fluid from the bottom.
if you really want to save the 50$,
this is the most ghetto way i can think of.
you can drive the car up on the curb on the passenger side so that the driver side is lower then the passenger side.
depending on your mid drift circumference :biggrin:, you'll have enough room to crawl under the car and lossen up the drain bolt.
For that bolt, place a 3/8 inch wrench on it. You might need to hit it with your hand to crack the bolt loose.
Let it drain.
Place the bolt back in.
While your under there, use a 17mm socket and open up the fill bolt.
Now push your car back down the ramp so that the car is level.
From the top, take off your air filter box. Place a funnel with long tube into the filler hole.
Fill till fluid leaks out. Screw in the fill plug and tighten.
Install air box.
getting real creative, that's how it can be done..... in my head. :biggrin:
much better to get jack and stand.
If you only have 2 stand, you'll need to put the car down on the ground so the tranny is level and fill it in from the top.
If you have 4, you can have the car level in the air and pump in the fluid from the bottom.
Definitely use the Honda white cap fluid...do a search. My tranny is a LOT smoother after I changed from Redline to the Honda stuff.
Jeff
it depends on who you ask.
I think 30K is a good number. I just pulled fluid from a nsx for 60k service. Fluid looked good, a little colored.
you can get the oil from Honda, its cheaper then getting it at Acura.
you'll need to ask for Honda MTF. you'll need 3 quarts. They have a white top and a red top. The red was phased out almost a year ago so you probably wont get the red top. White cap is supposedly better.
once i saw on BMI the head honcho at mugen or was it spoon, recommended changing the tranny fluid every time you change your oil. His thinking is engine oil is pressurized and filtered, the tranny on the other hand is not filtered, the gears are submerged in oil and are there is no pressure system to ensure that all the gears get good lubrication. Thus wear and tare on the tranny is greater and fluid should be changed every time oil is changed.
It makes perfect sense.
3 quarts of MTF and a hour under the car is much cheaper then tranny rebuild. Like the oil change, you cant over do it.
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Thanks guys.............I cant recall seeing a tranny fluid change in any of the recent service paperwork I got from the PO so I will stop by Honda tonight and get this changed ASAP.
good luck, have fun and work safe.
make sure to get the car up on jack stands.
make sure to get the car up on jack stands.
Instructions with pics are at http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/transoil/index.htm
If you don't have access to a lift, you will need at least a good floor jack. Read post #5 & #10.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106307&highlight=transmission+oil
Don't get under the car without jacks. I didn't have to with my method. PM me if you have any questions. Good luck.
When I changed mine a 6 months ago, I just used a funnel with a clear hose attached and filled it up until the fluid started to drip out of the hole. However, I did not shift into all gears prior to tightening the bolt.
His thinking is engine oil is pressurized and filtered, the tranny on the other hand is not filtered, the gears are submerged in oil and are there is no pressure system to ensure that all the gears get good lubrication.
The NSX transmission has an internal oil pressure system, with pump and filter, so I do not buy this for the NSX.
BTW: shifting gears before checking fluid level is for automatics, not manual transmssions
.
Regards,
LarryB
The NSX transmission has an internal oil pressure system, with pump and filter, so I do not buy this for the NSX.
BTW: shifting gears before checking fluid level is for automatics, not manual transmssions
.Regards,
LarryB
i would also pull the tranny filter/screen out (manual tranny) and clean it while your there. just to make sure there is not any excess metal flakes. real easy
Doesn't the manual say 3 years? I just changed mine at 3 years / 12k miles.
His thinking is engine oil is pressurized and filtered, the tranny on the other hand is not filtered, the gears are submerged in oil and are there is no pressure system to ensure that all the gears get good lubrication.
The NSX transmission has an internal oil pressure system, with pump and filter, so I do not buy this for the NSX.
BTW: shifting gears before checking fluid level is for automatics, not manual transmssions
Regards,
LarryB
LIES! :biggrin: j/k
its for honda's in general.
Never, ever remove the drain plug before removing the fill plug first. If you remove the drain plug first, then find that the fill plug is seized, you are in big trouble.
Make sure you all memorize Olyar15's excellent advice. Those that do not heed his warning will vewwwy vewwwy sowwwy!
taking off the filler first is great advice.
i live life on the edge. i take off the drain plug first :biggrin:
i was using mobil 1 10w/30 mixed 50/50 with the GM snake oil. (GM synchomesh friction modifier) based on couple threads we had few years ago.
Can someone tell me if this white cap honda MTF is better than mobil 1?
Can someone tell me if this white cap honda MTF is better than mobil 1?
I cannot technically say it is better, but I can tell you that after many trans services the results I get is people are always saying their trans shifts smoother then before.
HTH,
LarryB
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I have that DVD. It's Mr. Ichishima, the president of Spoon Sports. He really gave Tsuchiya a hard time about the transmission oil and using oil flushes in his NSX-R (he noted the cleansers can dislodge dirt and metal bits, which can work their way into the bearings). But, I think he was really more focused on track conditions. Anyway it was a funny segment.
What the heck, I'll chime in with my $0.02. I did a fair amount of reseach before selecting a synthetic MTF for changing my transaxle oil. I ended up selecting Redline. Better than the Honda OEM stuff or not? Who knows. Lots of track guys swear by it, so that was my deciding factor.
One thing you may consider buying is a magnetic drain plug. I did enough research on that item to make sure it was not a bogus "bling" item. For a modest cost, you can get a set for both the gear oil and motor oil drain plugs as I did. For $20 I figured it was worth the added protection.
PS. The fill plug can and does get stuck if overtightened, so allow a little time for that. The access is a bit tricky as well. I jacked up my car as much as I dared to allow for the needed space to put use my big socket bar. I also changed the fill bolt as the old one had worn edges from prior difficulty in removing it and/or from careless mechanics.
One thing you may consider buying is a magnetic drain plug. I did enough research on that item to make sure it was not a bogus "bling" item. For a modest cost, you can get a set for both the gear oil and motor oil drain plugs as I did. For $20 I figured it was worth the added protection.
PS. The fill plug can and does get stuck if overtightened, so allow a little time for that. The access is a bit tricky as well. I jacked up my car as much as I dared to allow for the needed space to put use my big socket bar. I also changed the fill bolt as the old one had worn edges from prior difficulty in removing it and/or from careless mechanics.
