Ok guys, I'm electronic illiterate. If I want to delete my head unit, how would I use my ipod since that's all I use anyway. I would like to run it through my speakers though. Is it even possible? Thank you.
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Ipod without a head unit?
- Thread starter davidf
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David. Shoot me a call man.
You don't need to delete your head unit .. in fact if you do, you'll loose the ability to get sound to your speakers. Just buy one of these: http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/interior_performance_products/NSX/USASpec/ and it essentially becomes the CD input to the head unit. The head unit won't display the name of the song or the group or playlist name .. you'll have to use the iPod to display/control that.
You can easily delete the radio. nsx2398 what di you mean you'll lose the ability to ger sound from your speakers?
There's a right and a wrong way to do this.
David I can get you a charger that you can permanently mount and dock your phone into the coin tray plus get audio out. It's just one step. No headphone jack to hookup, nothing else to mess with. Then you need an adaptor that slightly steps up the voltage, and you can have a little rotary volume knob you can mount anywhere convenient. It's tiny. And that is your volume control. You also need a trigger for the amps to come on and I know where you can get that too.
There's a right and a wrong way to do this.
David I can get you a charger that you can permanently mount and dock your phone into the coin tray plus get audio out. It's just one step. No headphone jack to hookup, nothing else to mess with. Then you need an adaptor that slightly steps up the voltage, and you can have a little rotary volume knob you can mount anywhere convenient. It's tiny. And that is your volume control. You also need a trigger for the amps to come on and I know where you can get that too.
TURBO2GO ... the OP has already said he's "electronic illiterate" so I was trying to give basic "plug and play" advice. While I don't doubt that you can "cobble something together" as you have suggested ... in the last 13 years on Prime, I don't believe that I have seen anyone document that approach with specific component details and wiring diagrams that an "electronic illiterate" could successfully implement themselves. Most people don't even understand the distributed BOSE amp design enough to know that they can handle line level inputs .. but what you're suggesting would require, at a minimum, splicing/soldering into the factory wiring harness from the head unit (or buying the SOS adapter) for both the audio and sub power .. again, this is something I don't realistically see an "electronic illiterate" person attempting. Not saying your solution isn't do-able .. I'm just trying to give advice appropriate to the OP's abilities.
Just my $0.02 worth.
Just my $0.02 worth.
Ian don't get upset, I wasn't trying to get on your case, hope it didn't sound that way. I understand why you said what you said... But honestly it's not hard to do this if he wanted to. I can have the whole setup running in under 30 minutes.
Can you post that setup? I'm interested :smile:
You should talk to Sduff he has a setuo without the headunit, just Bluetooth.
You can do that too, although Bluetooth can be a pain. The Bose amps respond fine to a line level out of a radio. It's no different from a portable. You just need a headphone 1/8 stereo jack to RCA wire and the SOS adaptor for stock speakers and aftermarket head unit. This is a 10 minute install. And the you have to provide 12V to the remote turn-on lead so the amps turn on. You can just wire that to the ignition or you can get an adaptor that senses music and triggers 12V on.
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http://www.discountcarstereo.com/catalog/PIE-Cyclops-Low-Voltage-Trigger-p-17606.html
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http://www.discountcarstereo.com/catalog/PIE-Cyclops-Low-Voltage-Trigger-p-17606.html
Yeah I ran a headphone jack to my phone before and recently added the Bluetooth element to it. I truthfully didn't care for a cord like that floating around the cabin but it's all personal preference.
The alpine unit I think ryu is running is nice because of the remove.
The only drawback that I haven't really addressed is volume adjustment on the music. Right now I use the phone but I have a volume knob that intigrated into RCA wires that just isn't installed. Or I still have the little headphone volume thing that I could run somewhere also. But it's been a great set up thus far.
The alpine unit I think ryu is running is nice because of the remove.
The only drawback that I haven't really addressed is volume adjustment on the music. Right now I use the phone but I have a volume knob that intigrated into RCA wires that just isn't installed. Or I still have the little headphone volume thing that I could run somewhere also. But it's been a great set up thus far.
Yeah I saw that before. I thought for some reason it hooked into the amp but now I see it's just the RCA connectors and that the volume controller goes into the black box
I'll look into that. Thanks.
I'll look into that. Thanks.
That's the only clean module. You can even get. Silver knob for it which matches the OEM 2005.
And here is what you install the end of in your coin tray then just dock your phone into it. It charges and gets the audio out.
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So the isimple harness connector gets attached to your phone, other end goes to the JL clc. You mount the volume knob where convenient, and you take the output of the JL CLC RLC into an SOS adaptor, factory speakers and aftermarket radio harness. By the way that is a generic harness, although give SOS your business. If you want to truly make it nice you can get the pie cyclops which will turn on the amps when it senses audio from your phone.
You're done.
And here is what you install the end of in your coin tray then just dock your phone into it. It charges and gets the audio out.
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So the isimple harness connector gets attached to your phone, other end goes to the JL clc. You mount the volume knob where convenient, and you take the output of the JL CLC RLC into an SOS adaptor, factory speakers and aftermarket radio harness. By the way that is a generic harness, although give SOS your business. If you want to truly make it nice you can get the pie cyclops which will turn on the amps when it senses audio from your phone.
You're done.
Thanks turbo2go- I will look into it some more.
Actually I have this now. Maybe I'll run it first. It worked fine for a test install awhile ago. Just is slightly more bulky then the knob pictured above.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J226O/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SL500_SS115
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J226O/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SL500_SS115
No, that thing is not in any way similar to the CLC RLC.
That is a passive device not active and analog. Not only does it degrade the sound but you can only go "down" in volume from your maximum setting. The JL gives you more proper voltage and can go up as it is self amplified. I do not recommend that PAC piece.
That is a passive device not active and analog. Not only does it degrade the sound but you can only go "down" in volume from your maximum setting. The JL gives you more proper voltage and can go up as it is self amplified. I do not recommend that PAC piece.
That's the only clean module. You can even get. Silver knob for it which matches the OEM 2005.
And here is what you install the end of in your coin tray then just dock your phone into it. It charges and gets the audio out.
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So the isimple harness connector gets attached to your phone, other end goes to the JL clc. You mount the volume knob where convenient, and you take the output of the JL CLC RLC into an SOS adaptor, factory speakers and aftermarket radio harness. By the way that is a generic harness, although give SOS your business. If you want to truly make it nice you can get the pie cyclops which will turn on the amps when it senses audio from your phone.
You're done.
The one above isn't going to work if you plan on mirroring your phone on a screen. It's good, but a set of av cables will eventually plug and charge your device. Then you connect the volume via Bluetooth and it's golden.
If you don't plan on running video out then yeah that's a good option. But the whole point of my install was to keep things looking clean and not have to hook up to many wires in and out. Hence the belkin aircast thing.
I wonder if they'll ever come out with Bluetooth video, or maybe they have. I'm not techie so I'm not up to date,
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I run a line output driver so I think it works fine no? It's only a concern if you're running straight to an amp.
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Basically it'll be Bluetooth, to line output driver, volume knob, amp, speakers. Sure it can't raise the level maybe, but you just turn it up full on your driver, while the knob is on the mid range.
Stephen the isimple wire I posted give you a charging solution. There are zero visible wires. Just a small apple connector in your coin tray (the back). Your phone slides in, it charges, and you get 100% solid and reliable hard wired audio out. That is the solution for the question posted here.
Mirroring your iPhone on a display and other things is a whole other game, and I would think for most people looking for a way to listen to their phone music, unnecessary. Now you are talking navpod, monitor, and a whole bunch of peripherals. And for what? It's not a touch screen anyway. It's pretty limited functionality IMO, I don't know what you are using it for. But we are talking about a solid $50 solution versus many hundreds of dollars, and you still can't charge without wires.
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On that amp driver and PAC piece. The audio quality will not be as good. Trust me on that. And why? You are using two items for what one can achieve in a better manner. I know you already might own them but do yourself a favor and get the CLC-RLC.
Mirroring your iPhone on a display and other things is a whole other game, and I would think for most people looking for a way to listen to their phone music, unnecessary. Now you are talking navpod, monitor, and a whole bunch of peripherals. And for what? It's not a touch screen anyway. It's pretty limited functionality IMO, I don't know what you are using it for. But we are talking about a solid $50 solution versus many hundreds of dollars, and you still can't charge without wires.
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On that amp driver and PAC piece. The audio quality will not be as good. Trust me on that. And why? You are using two items for what one can achieve in a better manner. I know you already might own them but do yourself a favor and get the CLC-RLC.
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Yeah guess I was side tracked in my own requirements. The JL one linked above I'll check out. I've changed my stereo system probably 5 times in the past 7 years of ownership but it's nice to finally have a solution in my mind anyways.
But to get back on track the volume knob should work fine granted you run a line output driver. That will be the boosted signal and then the knob will be between that and the amp to control that boosted signal. The whole thing shouldn't be more then $100 if I remember correctly.
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Maybe slightly more. For all the pm's I get here's what I'm running in this order right now.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004CLYJ2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1375117359&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EZV3T8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1375117293&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
Then this little controller or the JL controller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J226O/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SL500_SS115
Then amp to speakers.
But to get back on track the volume knob should work fine granted you run a line output driver. That will be the boosted signal and then the knob will be between that and the amp to control that boosted signal. The whole thing shouldn't be more then $100 if I remember correctly.
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Maybe slightly more. For all the pm's I get here's what I'm running in this order right now.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004CLYJ2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1375117359&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EZV3T8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1375117293&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
Then this little controller or the JL controller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J226O/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SL500_SS115
Then amp to speakers.
Gotcha. Well I don't want phase distortion so I'll check out the JL one then.
When I briefly hooked it up I didn't notice any really but was more concerned about if it even worked or not I think.
When I briefly hooked it up I didn't notice any really but was more concerned about if it even worked or not I think.
Last night, sick of not listening to music in my new car, I replaced the factory deck with an analog audio input. I used a connector from eBay ($4) and some bits I had laying around.
My car had a phone in its former life, so the coin tray has a big hole in the bottom of it. I decided that entitled me to proceed with reckless abandon, so I drilled holes for the audio and Lightning connector at the back of the coin tray and hot-melt glued the cables in place:
This hideous mess, from the topside, looks like this:
And with my phone plugged in, looks like this:
I paired the front and rear inputs to the factory harness; from testing the left and right each appear to provide signal to the sub and rear speaker. The red (switched-power) wire on the harness connector mates to the blue (antenna) wire; that turns on the amps when the ignition is on. I unplugged the antenna in the trunk so it stays down. The Lightning connector runs into the ash tray, where it may be plugged into a USB-power adapter. I would have wired this directly and tucked it away but the lighter-plug-to-USB converters I have are ultra cheap and seem to have a tendency to get hot. I prefer not to convert my NSX to a smoldering pile of toxic waste due to a $0.30 piece of junk. Ultimately I will likely replace this with a reputable 12V-5V converter hardwired.
The signal level from my iPhone 5 headphone output is nearly perfectly matched to the Bose amps. A good volume is around 60-80% on the phone.
It's nice to be able to plug the phone in where I tended to set it anyway and both charge it and listen to music. The hardware volume buttons are just accessible on the side of the phone. Nav on the iPhone will play through the system. My only problem is phone calls, which will play audio through the system but expect me to speak into the microphone on the phone. I use a bluetooth headset so I don't think this will be an issue but we'll see. It's possible that I may want a bluetooth handsfree kit with a switch to select between that and a direct audio connection.
This setup is only appropriate for my phone (or other naked iPhone 5's), but that's okay with me and a new coin tray could be made for a new phone. I would prefer a better location for the phone but I'm going to live with this for a bit and see how it goes.
-jason
My car had a phone in its former life, so the coin tray has a big hole in the bottom of it. I decided that entitled me to proceed with reckless abandon, so I drilled holes for the audio and Lightning connector at the back of the coin tray and hot-melt glued the cables in place:
This hideous mess, from the topside, looks like this:
And with my phone plugged in, looks like this:
I paired the front and rear inputs to the factory harness; from testing the left and right each appear to provide signal to the sub and rear speaker. The red (switched-power) wire on the harness connector mates to the blue (antenna) wire; that turns on the amps when the ignition is on. I unplugged the antenna in the trunk so it stays down. The Lightning connector runs into the ash tray, where it may be plugged into a USB-power adapter. I would have wired this directly and tucked it away but the lighter-plug-to-USB converters I have are ultra cheap and seem to have a tendency to get hot. I prefer not to convert my NSX to a smoldering pile of toxic waste due to a $0.30 piece of junk. Ultimately I will likely replace this with a reputable 12V-5V converter hardwired.
The signal level from my iPhone 5 headphone output is nearly perfectly matched to the Bose amps. A good volume is around 60-80% on the phone.
It's nice to be able to plug the phone in where I tended to set it anyway and both charge it and listen to music. The hardware volume buttons are just accessible on the side of the phone. Nav on the iPhone will play through the system. My only problem is phone calls, which will play audio through the system but expect me to speak into the microphone on the phone. I use a bluetooth headset so I don't think this will be an issue but we'll see. It's possible that I may want a bluetooth handsfree kit with a switch to select between that and a direct audio connection.
This setup is only appropriate for my phone (or other naked iPhone 5's), but that's okay with me and a new coin tray could be made for a new phone. I would prefer a better location for the phone but I'm going to live with this for a bit and see how it goes.
-jason
If would be awesome if someone made a bracket that attaches on the side of the carpet by the right side of the drivers leg. That way it's easy to reach, you can run a charging plug to it as well. I was looking at various phone cases that you could use and found a case by speck that would probably work. It was heavy duty and had a rubber ring that went around the phone and that entire casing went inside a larger plastic cover. Well without the rubber ring you could put your phone in the plastic holder and have it not slide out but also stay in place if mounted somewhere. Haven't tried it but that's the idea I had.
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I have a complete audio system (DD, amps, speakers, subwoofer, rear cam) which I rarely use. IMO, a complete waste. I'd rather get rid of them and go with a simple route like what OP has mentioned or something similar to what Ferrari has done with 16M. I don't have stock Bose components so I'm assuming I still need an amp. Correct?
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Yes, if you don't have the Bose components you still need an amp. You can plug your phone/iPod into an amp if you have (1) an amp with a remote volume knob, like many JL-Audio amps, or (2) a separate line driver with a volume control, like turbo2go posted above.
Finding a suitable dock is a bit challenging. If you want high quality, the iStreamer is supposed to be a good choice; it will charge your phone and get the audio off as a digital signal. In that case, this dock appears to be the best I have found. Then you need a volume control and amp. That may be the direction I go in, unless some of the high-quality bluetooth options come along.
