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Clutch Recommendation

I just found out that the CompTech Powergrip clutch is no longer available. Now I'm thinking of the Exedy. Regan, what other parts do I need to install an Excedy clutch on my 97? Also, which clutch model is the best one for my engine HP and occasional track use?

Thanks
You're going to need to do some research. I can't do all the work for you man :)

I recommended calling OS Giken. They might have a 97+ clutch for the NSX by now. You can contact [MENTION=4034]Coz[/MENTION] for advice on Exedy.

For everyday ease of use - no weird exotic clutch noise and ability to hold 320RWTQ and 450RWHP the single disc OEM clutch found in the later model NSX works like a charm.

I know from first hand experience.
I just wish the flywheel was WAY lighter. It's like driving a stickshift Accord. The RPM takes forever to settle down. Super annoying when driving at the track. Like painfully annoying... and i'm not even a great driver.
 
I have one of the SOS Sport 275 and a 350 clutch (street and race car). I will say I prefer the OEM clutch over both for general feel / engagement, but the 350 is handling the track abuse (Super Touring 2) just fine, and the street one seems to do just fine as well, although i'll note that I do like the 'feel' significantly better with the OEM Clutch damper vs the elimination.
 
"No longer available" as in no longer available ever? Shiet..
I'm sure Shad has a few sitting in a warehouse somewhere.:cool:
 
Mario, sorry I am late to the thread and your PM... I fully agree with the 0.02 provided by Mr Regan Yu aka [MENTION=20915]RYU[/MENTION]. He is correct in that my SOS sport clutch failed on me after 3,000 miles- within one year of the install. The clutch disc itself failed in that a huge chunk of it literally came off of the disc. Thankfully, no further damage was had from the failure. Chris at SOS sent me a brand new clutch disc and we sort of called it even. I was happy at the end of it because I hated how the SOS would chatter, plus engagement was terrible. This was back in 2011-2012, I am hopeful that these issues have been addressed. I now have a ctpg1 which you can test out if you'd like. Zero chatter, precise engagement and heavy pedal feel (this is a plus for me).
 
For those interested in ct pg 1. A few more bits of input.
When my car was naturally aspirated with a ct pg 1 clutch, I could get the car sideways, smoke the tires, and just go balls out with the ct clutch. It was so much fun. Wheels spin was guaranteed when moving your left foot quickly. Engagement was laser sharp, and zero clutch noise.
Fast forward to my OEM clutch with a ctsc on 7 psi max boost. The clutch has no bite to it. I never feel when it grips, when the wheels spin, it immediately hits the limiter with poor transfer to the wheels.
Lastly, if I dump it and launch the car, it wreaks of clutch material for half a day later. Overall, in my personal experience, the ct clutch was buckets of fun. The Oem clutch, feels like a civic. Just my two cents. It's all a personal preference.
I just wish I knew Shad prior to replacing my ct clutch with Oem at a Acura dealer for 3400 bucks. What a rip off! I remember picking up the car, starting it, and feeling as if my clutch cylinder had failed because the pedal went to the freakin floor with the easiest of effort. A far cry from the ct. I say, if its your D.D. go Oem, if it's your weekend warrior, go ct or comparable replacement all the way!:cool:
 
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Mario, sorry I am late to the thread and your PM... I fully agree with the 0.02 provided by Mr Regan Yu aka @RYU. He is correct in that my SOS sport clutch failed on me after 3,000 miles- within one year of the install. The clutch disc itself failed in that a huge chunk of it literally came off of the disc. Thankfully, no further damage was had from the failure. Chris at SOS sent me a brand new clutch disc and we sort of called it even. I was happy at the end of it because I hated how the SOS would chatter, plus engagement was terrible. This was back in 2011-2012, I am hopeful that these issues have been addressed. I now have a ctpg1 which you can test out if you'd like. Zero chatter, precise engagement and heavy pedal feel (this is a plus for me).
Thats what happened to my SoS 350 but as stated it was because I had abused it at a drag day and subsequent track days so I wouldnt say its the clutchs fault, I have just had it refurbed with a better kevlar compound instead of organic and resurfaced the flywheel and a new pressure plate, just picked the car up today and it feels good to go again my biggest issue now is my WPC treated OS G is whining away so I hope that dies down a bit but damn what a difference in gearing.
 
......I just wish the flywheel was WAY lighter. It's like driving a stickshift Accord. The RPM takes forever to settle down. Super annoying when driving at the track. Like painfully annoying... and i'm not even a great driver.

True on the weight.

I just wished that there was a Centerforce DYAD for the NSX. I have the DYAD for the GTO and just absolutely love it more than the SOS Dual Carbon Carbon Billet clutch for 3 reasons:

1. Allows near OEM smooth engagement (instead of the "bi=polar" on/off engagement that virtually all twin disc clutches exhibits)
2. No noise at all that is typical of twin disc clutches
3. Yes it has a lighter flywheel as well
 
Some folks might ask why all floating disc make noise. The best clutches I know of are floating disc like the OS Giken and Exedy.

I really like the billet pressure plate on the OSG. It's not a stamped steel type. Exedy uses the same on their higher end clutches. Also notice the 18 or so bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel to eliminate flex and keep engagement as consistent feeling as possible. The disc are also bonded thru a proprietary process mentioned below (not riveted like most others). This OSG clutch can hold 500wHP and maybe 400+tq but they'd never publish that and the STR is designed as a Sporty Street Clutch with occassional track use (it's exactly how I use the car). The TR and others have a lighter flywheel etc.. and are more racy.

With all that clamping power you might wonder why isn't the pedal pressure super stiff and leg breaking? It's because they use a special slave cylinder that has a lot of leverage built-in. The leg power needed to push the pressure plate is off-loaded onto a specialy designed slave cylinder. They call it an "Alteration kit". With all this and the reason why it makes "noise" below is just the nature of the beast for having top of the line performance everywhere else.

I'm not a parts fanboi btw. I just like well designed and built parts. Pics on my build thread. Page 8.



Why do all OS Giken clutches make a noise when the clutch is disengaged?


All OS clutch kits utilize a free-floating pressure plate design. Most “traditional” clutch designs secure the pressure plate to the cover through the use of a pressure plate drive strap (aka “granny strap”). The advantage of having the granny strap is that clutch operation remains noiseless whether the clutch is engaged or disengaged. However, in many situations where the clutch is being abused (i.e. “spirited” driving and/or racing), the granny strap can become a weak point in the system and has a tendency to bend or break, potentially causing clutch failure and damage to drivetrain components. With the OS free-floating pressure plate design, pressure applied to the disks is even throughout the clutch lifespan, and the friction material of the metallic disks is bonded through a specialized process (as opposed to the cheaper riveted process used by most other competitors and OEM). This aids in increasing durability and lengthening the useful service life of an OS clutch, as power will continue to be transmitted effectively until the disks are extremely thin (since no rivets are present to create another weak point). Some race teams have gone through multiple seasons on an OS clutch before requiring a rebuild!


In regards to multi-plate clutch designs, all aftermarket manufacturers' multi-plate clutches will inherently emit a noise when the clutch is disengaged. This noise is emitted from the centerplate(s) vibrating against the cover posts. However, many competitors' clutches do not utilize the same strengthening processes during manufacturing as OS Giken, which will lead to increased material degradation over time. Because of this, the clutch noise will often become louder over time, as the centerplate(s) start to wear away and have more free-play within the housing. The OS design, coupled with the use of the most suitable materials and manufacturing processes, will minimize any system degradation and help to keep the clutch performing and sounding the same as when it was first installed. In fact, many OS Giken clutch users are proud to point out the signature noise emitted to anyone who asks, as it is a reminder that the car is equipped with one of the best performing and longest lasting clutches available!
 
I hate getting involved in online debates about parts since we all have opinions on what works and doesn't work and we all think we know whats best.
That being said, I have used EXEDY for 8 years, never had a failure and they wear incredibility well considering I track my car 24+ days a year, 100's of sessions.
I don't mind the plate noise and I find the clutch pedal pressure is no big deal...
But then again, I don't have a girly left leg, LOL.
NA-1's with EXEDY are direct replacements, NA-2's have to have the main shaft changed in the gearbox before the EXEDY can be used.
 
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I hate getting involved in online debates about parts since we all have opinions on what works and doesn't work and we all think we know whats best.
That being said, I have used EXEDY for 8 years, never had a failure and they wear incredibility well considering I track my car 24+ days a year, 100's of sessions.
I don't mind the plate noise and I find the clutch pedal pressure is no big deal...
But then again, I don't have a girly left leg, LOL.
NA-1's with EXEDY are direct replacements, NA-2's have to have the main shaft changed in the gearbox before the EXEDY can be used.

Jim, what model clutch do you use?
 
I hate getting involved in online debates about parts since we all have opinions on what works and doesn't work and we all think we know whats best.
Amen to that. If it wasn't for Mario asking I would have stayed out of this one.

My hope is people understand the pros and cons to pick the right clutch for themselves
 
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OK, the verdict is in. I've decided to go with the OS Giken clutch (street/track model).

Thanks for all of the input provided. I definitely learned a lot about the NSX clutch and the options out there for after market clutches.
 
OK, the verdict is in. I've decided to go with the OS Giken clutch (street/track model).

Thanks for all of the input provided. I definitely learned a lot about the NSX clutch and the options out there for after market clutches.
I'm actually really surprised. The input shaft swap is going to cost a lot. What made you decide on the OS G?
 
I'm actually really surprised. The input shaft swap is going to cost a lot. What made you decide on the OS G?

Regan,

I may be changing my mind. I found out today from Ramon that he cannot install the clutch in that he does not want to open up the transmission, which I understand is required to install the longer input shaft. Ramon suggested that I take the car to SOS in Arizona. I'm not going to SOS, not convenient. Does anyone know who else might have the expertise to install an OS Giken clutch, including the input shaft?

Thanks!
 
OEM or the SOS in my opinion.

You're in CA where there are a ton of NSX's, and a wide variety of clutches! I would go to a meet and try to ride/drive them to see what fits your needs best.
 
Listen to Regan. OSG makes a more streetable clutch called Grand Touring. If you are not boosted, I think it is the best option for the NSX.
 
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