At the track, could really use help

[TURBO2GO]

I need help from anyone that can answer. I'm at the track now, check engine light has come on. Codes are:

P1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1205, 1206.

One also is P0300.

Can anyone tell me what these are, if I can go back out to the track or not? Car seems to be running ok. I'm also 300 miles from home. Can I drive back on these codes? Any help is much appreciated guys!

 

[C-speed]

I need help from anyone that can answer. I'm at the track now, check engine light has come on. Codes are:

P1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1205, 1206.

One also is P0300.

Can anyone tell me what these are, if I can go back out to the track or not? Car seems to be running ok. I'm also 300 miles from home. Can I drive back on these codes? Any help is much appreciated guys!

P1201
Injector Circuit Open / Shorted - Cylinder #1


P1202
Injector Circuit Open / Shorted - Cylinder #2

P1203
Injector Circuit Open / Shorted - Cylinder #3

P1204
Injector Circuit Open / Shorted - Cylinder #4

P1205
Injector Circuit Open / Shorted - Cylinder #5

P1206
Injector Circuit Open / Shorted - Cylinder #6

P0300
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected


Bad ignitor, bad ground, all 6 plugs are bad (unlikely), or all 6 coils are bad (unlikely). Or you got a really bad tank of fuel?

 

[C-speed]

Actually, just realized your are boosted... it could be due to the spark plug gap. If you're plugs were not gapped correctly for however much boost your running, you'll get those codes as the spark is being blown out.

7-9psi ish - I'd set them to around 0.030-0.032"

If you're plug gap is still stock (yikes) or not gapped correctly, then that is most likely the problem.

 

[Liquid]

His car has had the CT supercharger on it for a couple of years and has been on the track multiple times prior, if that is helpful at all in ruling out some of the options you've given.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Guys thanks for the help. I reset the ECU per larry B's instructions, drove around, was fine. I lined up in the pits and the mother of all thunderstorms rolled in and they closed the track. I drove home. I've had this nagging sputtering, misfire, low idle issue come and go for months. I was looking for a fuel issue but now think it's an ignition issue. Sometimes car is fine for long periods, then it just shows up. Then goes away. It's not there at high revs, but rears it's head between 2-4k usually. Cleaned TB, new plugs. This is the first time I got a check engine light. Almost ruined my track day. next step from my mechanic is 02 sensors but... To spend $600 on a "maybe".... I didn't want to do it. Car has 14k miles. Any ideas?

 

[clr1024]

Cleaned TB, new plugs. This is the first time I got a check engine light. Almost ruined my track day. next step from my mechanic is 02 sensors but... To spend $600 on a "maybe".... I didn't want to do it. Car has 14k miles. Any ideas?

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

Isnt your car still under warranty? I thought you posted about that you were close to bbeing out of warranty?

 

[topgunsnsx]

Guys thanks for the help. I reset the ECU per larry B's instructions, drove around, was fine. I lined up in the pits and the mother of all thunderstorms rolled in and they closed the track. I drove home. I've had this nagging sputtering, misfire, low idle issue come and go for months. I was looking for a fuel issue but now think it's an ignition issue. Sometimes car is fine for long periods, then it just shows up. Then goes away. It's not there at high revs, but rears it's head between 2-4k usually. Cleaned TB, new plugs. This is the first time I got a check engine light. Almost ruined my track day. next step from my mechanic is 02 sensors but... To spend $600 on a "maybe".... I didn't want to do it. Car has 14k miles. Any ideas?

Let us know when you get this fix and how.

 

[Aiken Drum]

For all six to misfire, or be flagged as misfiring, seems more like a problem further upstream than the plugs or the coils themselves. Sure, I could see two or four getting flagged, but all six to go off in a situation they've been in before seems like a pretty strong coincidence.

So... could be the igniter unit. Or, first, maybe just check and see if something's happened to the wire harness on the other side of it. Could just be a bad wire or connector or something, and it rattled/wiggled/shorted/whatever more noticeably when under duress at the track than it usually does when you're just driving or idling.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Can a fuel issue be doing this? Sometimes the idle drops really low then it's like the ECU compensates and raises it right up so it doesn't stall. Like someone just jabbed the throttle. Is the igniter the little box passenger side, engine compartment mounted top of firewall? Has fins on it like a car amp?

 

[TURBO2GO]

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

Isnt your car still under warranty? I thought you posted about that you were close to bbeing out of warranty?

I'm out by 3 weeks now.

 

[WingZ]

Car has 14k miles. Any ideas?

Yeah sell it and get a GTR:biggrin:

 

[RPM217]

I'm out by 3 weeks now.

If you have a good relationship with the dealer/service department, they'd good will it in a second. If you don't, nothing a little "grease" wouldn't solve!!!:wink:

 

[goldNSX]

...fuel issue...

As your car is boosted I bet you have a fuel pressure gauge in it. What psi does it show when the problem occurs?

 

[C-speed]

As your car is boosted I bet you have a fuel pressure gauge in it. What psi does it show when the problem occurs?

HIGHLY unlikely it is a fuel issue.

 

[C-speed]

Can a fuel issue be doing this? Sometimes the idle drops really low then it's like the ECU compensates and raises it right up so it doesn't stall. Like someone just jabbed the throttle. Is the igniter the little box passenger side, engine compartment mounted top of firewall? Has fins on it like a car amp?

Bad/fouled plugs can cause poor start up and idle issues. I can almost guarantee you it's not a fuel issue.

 

[TURBO2GO]

I replaced all 6 plugs before tracking it. Today I was going down a side street around 30. I was downhill, and let it coast. I pushed in the clutch and watched the RPM's... 1000, 800, 500, 200... back up to 1000... then 800, 500, 200, back up to 1000 (as if someone is adding throttle)... then back down again and eventual stall. Let an hour go by, tried the same thing. Idle was steady at 1000 (or whatever it normally idles at).

Sometimes, the car is just fine. Revs high, smooth, no problems. Its really an intermittent issue.

I may have to shell out some cash and replace the 02 sensors anyway and see if this solves it. where is a good place to get these? I guess if that wasn't the issue I can post them on prime for sale and recover some amount of money. I really want to get this resolved before my next track event in a month.

 

[TURBO2GO]

As your car is boosted I bet you have a fuel pressure gauge in it. What psi does it show when the problem occurs?

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. Or an A/F gauge, or even a boost gauge. I am gaugeless. I hate adding things in the car, but perhaps I need to get some instrumentation.

 

[socalx]

don't replace the o2 sensors. take the car to a dealer or qualiied acura service rep and let them look at the car. i think you have a single source of the problem and the misfire codes were not caused by your o2 sensors.

 

[pgilliam1]

NSX has a 2 stage fuel pump. Low RPM/idle problems below 4K and if all is well above 4K, as you mentioned, signal to me a fuel pump issue. You can strap out the fuel pump connector in the engine bay above the fuel filter to run at stage 2 all the time to see if that's your problem.

 

[Wick]

I replaced all 6 plugs before tracking it. Today I was going down a side street around 30. I was downhill, and let it coast. I pushed in the clutch and watched the RPM's... 1000, 800, 500, 200... back up to 1000... then 800, 500, 200, back up to 1000 (as if someone is adding throttle)... then back down again and eventual stall. Let an hour go by, tried the same thing. Idle was steady at 1000 (or whatever it normally idles at).

Sometimes, the car is just fine. Revs high, smooth, no problems. Its really an intermittent issue.

I may have to shell out some cash and replace the 02 sensors anyway and see if this solves it. where is a good place to get these? I guess if that wasn't the issue I can post them on prime for sale and recover some amount of money. I really want to get this resolved before my next track event in a month.

I'm pretty sure Mitch could figure it out, given all the data and circumstances you have. Schedule her up at MD, open that wallet up and get her fixed... can't have this happen again at your next track day (that would really ruin your day...plus those track days cost to much to end up on the sidelines for the day!!!)

-Wick

 

[BioBanker]

When did you replace the plugs Dave?

 

[ftuhy]

Unless I'm missing something, with only 14k mi, as far as the O2 sensors go, that's still a federal 7 year emissions warranty. And, as long as the problem causes a MIL (aka CEL) light and affects emissions, it should also be covered under the 7 yr emissions warranty, not the basic 4 yr warranty.

Now back to figuring out what's broken!

I know zero about the CTSC, but I did see a recent post where someone had a problem with the connections to the igniter. So, try removing and then re-seating the igniter connector. Its simple and couldn't hurt. :biggrin:

 

[TURBO2GO]

When did you replace the plugs Dave?

Right before the track event. But it was misfiring before and after. I just don't want to keep replacing parts.

Roy, Mitch replaced my plugs and wanted to replace the 02's and I told him to hold off. I mean it's like $600 and we don't even know if that will help. I am certainly not getting any sort of 02 sensor code. "random misfire", code 0300, sounds like an ignition issue to me. I will go ahead and replace these myself, and if that didn't solve it, then I will have him move forward with other things. My gut says it is not the 02. I have had it misfire when engine is cold, under cold conditions the ECU is running in open loop and is ignoring the 02. My coolant temps are not warm enough for closed loop and the engine is misfiring. That combined with the fact that I am not getting an 02 sensor code and 14K miles on the car is telling me it is not the 02.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Unless I'm missing something, with only 14k mi, as far as the O2 sensors go, that's still a federal 7 year emissions warranty. And, as long as the problem causes a MIL (aka CEL) light and affects emissions, it should also be covered under the 7 yr emissions warranty, not the basic 4 yr warranty.

Now back to figuring out what's broken!

I know zero about the CTSC, but I did see a recent post where someone had a problem with the connections to the igniter. So, try removing and then re-seating the igniter connector. Its simple and couldn't hurt. :biggrin:

Thanks for that input. I am not getting an 02 CEL. So I am not sure if Acura will warranty it. Someone please tell me is this the igniter?

 

[RPM217]

Dave, that's the "flux capacitator" that get you back to the future!:biggrin: