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Survey: What spark plugs and gap size are you running on your turbo NSX?
- Thread starter stevenlee
- Start date
- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
Ngk Bkr7e plugs. Gap may vary but I'd start at .028" gap closer if needed.
I'm not turbo but instead stock CTSC 1.7L Autorotor on 7lbs of boost.
On the stock CTSC tune (recalibrated for a Walbro 255 which is a POS fuel pump btw..) I ran the BKR7eix with lots of success or the Denso spark plug equivalent. One step colder than stock. Gapped from the factory.
Now on the same blower and same boost i'm on the BKR7E copper but with a HKS F-Con iS and higher fuel pressure on the RDX injectors. Spark is stronger but I know i'll need to swap these ever 10-15k miles or so. Gapped to .030.
On the stock CTSC tune (recalibrated for a Walbro 255 which is a POS fuel pump btw..) I ran the BKR7eix with lots of success or the Denso spark plug equivalent. One step colder than stock. Gapped from the factory.
Now on the same blower and same boost i'm on the BKR7E copper but with a HKS F-Con iS and higher fuel pressure on the RDX injectors. Spark is stronger but I know i'll need to swap these ever 10-15k miles or so. Gapped to .030.
Exact same here ^
Will run my BKR7eix while I break in my fresh N/A engine.
Then switching to the below gapped at 0.028" for 12 psi and meth injection. I have a few more sets for tuning :smile: Install plugs, do a dyno run to redline, immediately cut the engine off, coast down, read plugs. Old school but that is what I like to rely on. These have been gapped already and indexed while the heads are off:
Then switching to the below gapped at 0.028" for 12 psi and meth injection. I have a few more sets for tuning :smile: Install plugs, do a dyno run to redline, immediately cut the engine off, coast down, read plugs. Old school but that is what I like to rely on. These have been gapped already and indexed while the heads are off:
^^^ now that's how to do it!
Bkr7e .028
Thanks everyone for your replies.
My engine builder recommended NGK BKR8EIX at the stock gap of .030. They have worked well for 2 years.
There is only one of those plug on the island (I live on Oahu, Hawaii).
I'm doing an AEM Series 2 EMS update and will be tuning on the dyno tomorrow.
Fortunately, O'Rileys was able to bring in 6 of those plugs with next day delivery so I was able to get the engine builder's recommended plugs after all.
I noticed that most people are using the heat range 7 plugs.
Mac Attack: Why do you change from this plug to the BRK7E plugs after you break in the motor?
I also index my plugs.
My engine builder recommended NGK BKR8EIX at the stock gap of .030. They have worked well for 2 years.
There is only one of those plug on the island (I live on Oahu, Hawaii).
I'm doing an AEM Series 2 EMS update and will be tuning on the dyno tomorrow.
Fortunately, O'Rileys was able to bring in 6 of those plugs with next day delivery so I was able to get the engine builder's recommended plugs after all.
I noticed that most people are using the heat range 7 plugs.
Mac Attack: Why do you change from this plug to the BRK7E plugs after you break in the motor?
I also index my plugs.
- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
Steven what is your turbo setup like? How much power are you planning on making. What turbo, intercooler setup? What fuel? I wouldn't really run 8's unless it was at least 700+whp and most in that category wouldn't be asking what plugs to run.
I think a lot of people jump to cooler plugs way too soon. 7's can go a long way.
I think a lot of people jump to cooler plugs way too soon. 7's can go a long way.
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Coz runs the 8s. He's got roughly ~600whp but he's in Arizona where it's HOT. You might want to PM him also Steven if you need more feedback on the 8s.
I agree with ENL. 7s will go a long way.
I agree with ENL. 7s will go a long way.
I'm breaking it in as N/A with the OEM ECU, injectors, slightly used plugs, etc.
After it goes through the break-in process with multiple oil changes and I make sure there are no short-term problems with my handi-work, then I'll reinstall the AEM S2, twin turbos, injectors, meth, etc and tune with these copper plugs.
Sorry for the confusion.
Dave
After it goes through the break-in process with multiple oil changes and I make sure there are no short-term problems with my handi-work, then I'll reinstall the AEM S2, twin turbos, injectors, meth, etc and tune with these copper plugs.
Sorry for the confusion.
Dave
Coz and I use the same engine builder. Perhaps that's why we are using the same plugs... plus we both live in warm climates.
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I'm running twin HKS 2510's. They are water-cooled ball bearing turbos. I also run water/meth with a custom air to water intercooler. Hawaii fuel is E10 with 92 octane. My engine builder recommended the 8's. I've been making ~525 and recently did some upgrades. I expect to keep it under 600.
I went with the small twins to maximize response vs. maximum power.
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Sounds similar to what I have. I just installed the Series 2 AEM last week and have been working on getting all of the connections correct.
Just got off the dyno today with 470 whp at 13 psi with the water/meth turned off.
We still need to figure out how the control the FJO water/meth injector to duty cycle to increase flow as the boost and RPM increase. The original turner that set up the FHO injection is no longer available and the FJO company got bought out by Holley and they no longer support the water/meth injection system. The water/meth spray used to work flawlessly until it was retuned a couple of years ago and I lost that original file and capability to meter the flow.
I hope we figure out how to use PWM to provide a duty cycle to the water/meth injector. The benefit of using constant high pressure with a variable duty cycle to the injector to spray, is that the spray is atomized better at high pressure as oppose to running variable pump speeds to vary the flow rate from the sprayer.
- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
8's will work but you may foul them out a bit more often than the 7's. We have made well over double the horsepower per liter you are making on 7s without any issues, so I don't think you would have a problem.
I think Nick will eventually build my motor too. He's one of the best and close by!
If you're not heating up the plugs so much that it's causing pre-ignition i'd try the 7's myself. I assumed Coz was running the 8s because it's hot out there in AZ. Let us know your results please!
Also, thanks for the little note on the FJO injection systems. I was not aware of them. I thought it was only Aquamist that sold a pulse type setup where the spray is always at constant pressure. I'm using a Snow unit whereby it's boost dependently only. I've got a short range of boost that a progressive spray may not matter too much. I've got it setup to begin spraying progressively from 1.5lbs to full boost at 4lbs (my max boost is 7.1lbs). I'm only spraying water too. When I eventually try meth I'll setup a 0-5V output on my F-Con that is based on RPM and Boost. Nice to see someone is already proving some ideas i've had circling in my head. Thanks!
I run the 8's like you do, as you know.
But I gap them at .025, easier on the ignition.
But I gap them at .025, easier on the ignition.
FJO was a "state-of-the-art" meth system 8 years ago when I installed the system. Now they've been bought out by Holley and they no longer service the product. I've had bad luck trying to get tuners to be able to program the EMS to control the PWM on the injector/sprayer. After spending too much time and money on tuners and dyno time, I decided to change to the AEM water/meth system with the Failsafe system because tuners know how to work with it. It is pretty sophisticated and does many of the things I managed to do many years ago, but the AEM system uses more modern electronics to accomplish it.
Tonight I began the install. The only problem so far (major problem) is that the AEM system has a simple sprayer instead of an electronic injector. AEM says the sprayer MUST be installed higher than the tank and pump. I have a custom tank and pump assembly that is in the location of the old air box. It's about 8 inches higher than the sprayer port.
I tested the AEM sprayer's check valve and it has a 20 psi cracking pressure. I should think that is enough back pressure to keep water/meth from leaking past the check valve.
Does anyone know if it really is necessary to install the sprayer above the tank and pump like AEM says?
My
I'm planning on trying it with my current sprayer location lower that the tank and pump because I don't have any other good location for the tank and pump. If does leak, I could install a stainless steel solenoid valve in the line. Hope that's not necessary and that AEM is just playing it safe to protect themselves from a check valve if it goes bad.
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What happens when it's "hard" on the ignition?
P.S. I'm shipping my car to San Diego in 3 weeks to drive it to NSXPO. Hope to see you in California, or Arizona, or any of the other states I'll be driving through. I want to show you the new iLIFT system in action.
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We prefer the NGK Iridium No. 7 (up to 425 bhp) or No. 8 (425 bhp +) depending on power level for boosted NSX. The factory plug has a gap of .044". Gap the plug down from .044" by approximately .004" per 50 bhp added from factory power.
The No. 7 plug comes pre-gapped at .044" and the No. 8 plug comes .032". Adjust the gap carefully as to not break the fragile electrode based on the above information.
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/NGK/NGK_Spark_Plug/
The No. 7 plug comes pre-gapped at .044" and the No. 8 plug comes .032". Adjust the gap carefully as to not break the fragile electrode based on the above information.
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/NGK/NGK_Spark_Plug/
If the gap is wider, the spark has a harder time leaping across, particularly under full throttle, and the engine can misfire. Smaller gap, less work for the ignition to make the spark happen.
Right now at Nicks, will probably be back in Arizona when you get here. Call me, your more than welcome to stop by the house and kick back for the night in AZ before continuing on Steven.
Will be good to see you again.
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+1...
Right now at Nicks, will probably be back in Arizona when you get here. Call me, your more than welcome to stop by the house and kick back for the night in AZ before continuing on Steven.
Will be good to see you again.
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+1...
The dyno tuning on my car was completed on my car last night. Using NGK BKR8EIX at stock gap.
Unfortunately one of my wastegate actuators is leaking and the engine couldn't maintain the boost at higher RPM.
In spite of the dropping boost, the engine produced 563WHP on a street tune with meth and 582 on a "drag race tune" with added timing, boost and cooling.
My tuner said it ran OK on the stock gap but he thought that it be happier with a smaller gap of .026.
I'm re-gapping the plugs to .026 and shipping the car to San Diego on Monday for the drive to NSXPO.
Hope to visit some fellow NSXers along the way.
Unfortunately one of my wastegate actuators is leaking and the engine couldn't maintain the boost at higher RPM.
In spite of the dropping boost, the engine produced 563WHP on a street tune with meth and 582 on a "drag race tune" with added timing, boost and cooling.
My tuner said it ran OK on the stock gap but he thought that it be happier with a smaller gap of .026.
I'm re-gapping the plugs to .026 and shipping the car to San Diego on Monday for the drive to NSXPO.
Hope to visit some fellow NSXers along the way.
I also run the bkr7e standard copper. I tried the platinum or maybe it was the iridium but both didn't run nearly as good on my car as the cheap ones lol. I think they are gapped to .030 or so. I hate gaping them, I always feel I'm going to snap the tip off.
