Been a frustrating month -- and for more than just this damned virus: Had TB/WP et al replaced by Paul Z at Meatas in Peyton, CO (near Colorado Springs) at the end of May. Drove home with no incident – ran very, very well, although with traffic did not push it at all. Two weeks later I drove with a friend to Keansburg, CO and pushed it quite hard, and it severely overheated. Flat bedded it home and discovered the 27 year old radiator had taken a dump and the thermostat had stuck shut.
Ordered an aluminum Toyorad from SOHi Performance and a new thermostat from Tim Poliack and installed. Radiator leaked, spewing 2 gallons of Honda Type II all over the garage. Grrrrrrr. SOHi Performance sent a new radiator, I installed that, had some coolant left over and mostly filled system, drove it gently a mile or two and all was well – thermostat opened and temperature held steady. A week later I got the rest of the coolant, filled the system, lowered the car, got ready to take a full test and ----- it won’t start. The car’s rear end was raised about a foot off the ground that whole time for bleeding purposes, for whatever that information may be worth.
I can hear the fuel pump prime the fuel rail. The car readily cranks (new battery in December, and it lives on a trickle charger). It will fire once or even three or four times and then just crank. I’ve even held it in crank position to ensure the ignition switch is OK and get the same result. If I crack the test port on the fuel filter open immediately after trying to start it, gas comes out. I think that eliminates the dreaded Main Relay issue.
I have removed and double checked the ignition switch and the two separate connections required for position II are good. I’ve checked power to the TPS and MAP sensors. I clearly don’t have the diagnostic connector, so I can’t go further with the WSM trouble shooting steps. I’ve removed the controller box and checked all the vacuum lines and all are clear.
I’m wondering if anyone has a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel rail pressure while cranking to see if it sufficient. I’m leaning toward a fuel issue since it will fire a few times and then nothing – ignition seems ok. I’m chasing a fuel problem and hope it isn’t the fuel pump. I sounds like a miserable job and the car has ¾ of a tank of gas.
If anyone has additional ideas I thirst to hear them. Prime driving season in Colorado is short and it is disappearing rapidly.
Thanks.
Ordered an aluminum Toyorad from SOHi Performance and a new thermostat from Tim Poliack and installed. Radiator leaked, spewing 2 gallons of Honda Type II all over the garage. Grrrrrrr. SOHi Performance sent a new radiator, I installed that, had some coolant left over and mostly filled system, drove it gently a mile or two and all was well – thermostat opened and temperature held steady. A week later I got the rest of the coolant, filled the system, lowered the car, got ready to take a full test and ----- it won’t start. The car’s rear end was raised about a foot off the ground that whole time for bleeding purposes, for whatever that information may be worth.
I can hear the fuel pump prime the fuel rail. The car readily cranks (new battery in December, and it lives on a trickle charger). It will fire once or even three or four times and then just crank. I’ve even held it in crank position to ensure the ignition switch is OK and get the same result. If I crack the test port on the fuel filter open immediately after trying to start it, gas comes out. I think that eliminates the dreaded Main Relay issue.
I have removed and double checked the ignition switch and the two separate connections required for position II are good. I’ve checked power to the TPS and MAP sensors. I clearly don’t have the diagnostic connector, so I can’t go further with the WSM trouble shooting steps. I’ve removed the controller box and checked all the vacuum lines and all are clear.
I’m wondering if anyone has a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel rail pressure while cranking to see if it sufficient. I’m leaning toward a fuel issue since it will fire a few times and then nothing – ignition seems ok. I’m chasing a fuel problem and hope it isn’t the fuel pump. I sounds like a miserable job and the car has ¾ of a tank of gas.
If anyone has additional ideas I thirst to hear them. Prime driving season in Colorado is short and it is disappearing rapidly.
Thanks.