i went with the schumacher charger mounted on the inside of the front compartment. The schumacher is a good unit, i do use a battery tender jr on the other cars.
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Battery Tender Jr. installation (with pics)
- Thread starter PHOEN$X
- Start date
I just got one myself. Seems to be working great. $23 on Amazon.
Currently $19.99 at Amazon.com right now (11/20/13)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...L7o3_G-P_0_0&ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...L7o3_G-P_0_0&ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Just added my brattery tender jr and extension on the car today. Ran it similar to the op post and went a little zip tie crazy. The only concern I had was the cord running with the car cover on so I kept the front of the cover up a bit.
Thanks for the write up.
Thanks for the write up.
Another version of a float charger connection
I did this installation a number of years ago, never posted it, and got inspired by this post to finally take some pictures and post it.
I used the unused fuse position in the fuse box under the hood. Its full time 12V, and using a low value fuse means both the car's electrical system and the charger are protected from any mishap. I used a 5 amp fuse because that's the smallest size I had on hand. Since the maximum output of my float charger is 600ma, even a 1 or 2 amp fuse would be sufficient.
The charger I used is from Harbor Freight (#42292) and sells for between $6 and $15, depending what sale they have going. Its a true float charger - i.e, when the battery is at its true cell potential, current into the battery is zero. Using this charger, my most recent battery lasted a little over 10 years in the car, with 2 to 3 months of winter storage each year. I like the charger because its small, lightweight, and provides the correct temperature compensated float voltage needed to keep a battery healthy.
Connector for float charger visible (white) by far end of cover
Fuse box cover removed showing wiring to connector. Modified fuse with lead soldered to open end (not the end with the car's 12V) The fuse modification is simple. Grind off a little of the plastic and solder the connector lead to the fuse. I used a pre-wired non-Honda connector (one from Pep Boys for a GM alternator) so there's no possibility of it ever being connected to anything else on the car.
Mounting bolt at corner of fuse box with ground lead lug wired to connector
Cover closed, float charger connected. The charger came with battery "alligator clips". I cut them off and soldered the leads to the connector. (Just make sure you don't reverse the + & - leads when soldering to the connector.)
Hood down, not latched, with charger module visible
I did this installation a number of years ago, never posted it, and got inspired by this post to finally take some pictures and post it.
I used the unused fuse position in the fuse box under the hood. Its full time 12V, and using a low value fuse means both the car's electrical system and the charger are protected from any mishap. I used a 5 amp fuse because that's the smallest size I had on hand. Since the maximum output of my float charger is 600ma, even a 1 or 2 amp fuse would be sufficient.
The charger I used is from Harbor Freight (#42292) and sells for between $6 and $15, depending what sale they have going. Its a true float charger - i.e, when the battery is at its true cell potential, current into the battery is zero. Using this charger, my most recent battery lasted a little over 10 years in the car, with 2 to 3 months of winter storage each year. I like the charger because its small, lightweight, and provides the correct temperature compensated float voltage needed to keep a battery healthy.
Connector for float charger visible (white) by far end of cover
Fuse box cover removed showing wiring to connector. Modified fuse with lead soldered to open end (not the end with the car's 12V) The fuse modification is simple. Grind off a little of the plastic and solder the connector lead to the fuse. I used a pre-wired non-Honda connector (one from Pep Boys for a GM alternator) so there's no possibility of it ever being connected to anything else on the car.
Mounting bolt at corner of fuse box with ground lead lug wired to connector
Cover closed, float charger connected. The charger came with battery "alligator clips". I cut them off and soldered the leads to the connector. (Just make sure you don't reverse the + & - leads when soldering to the connector.)
Hood down, not latched, with charger module visible
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Battery Tender Quick Connect Wiring Install
After several years of always having to drag my battery charger out each time I wanted to drive one of my cars. I finally became a battery tender devotee. All my muscle cars have external hood releases and don't require a prop rod, so I just pop the hood when I get home and connect to the short pigtail mounted on the battery. With the NSX it's a little more difficult, not to mention I wasn't thrilled with having to raise and lower the aluminum front hood any more than necessary. I spent this morning wiring in an externally accessible quick connect lead and I am pretty happy with how it turned out.
The lead is accessible through the opening below the right parking lamp. I used a wire tie to secure it in place and the loose end tucks neatly above the lower bumper cover. Under the hood I routed the wire through a 3/8" convoluted wire sleeve and it blends right in and looks stock. Under the hood only two wire ties were needed to secure everything in place which helps it look clean and blend in with the original wiring. Here's a few pictures.
After several years of always having to drag my battery charger out each time I wanted to drive one of my cars. I finally became a battery tender devotee. All my muscle cars have external hood releases and don't require a prop rod, so I just pop the hood when I get home and connect to the short pigtail mounted on the battery. With the NSX it's a little more difficult, not to mention I wasn't thrilled with having to raise and lower the aluminum front hood any more than necessary. I spent this morning wiring in an externally accessible quick connect lead and I am pretty happy with how it turned out.
The lead is accessible through the opening below the right parking lamp. I used a wire tie to secure it in place and the loose end tucks neatly above the lower bumper cover. Under the hood I routed the wire through a 3/8" convoluted wire sleeve and it blends right in and looks stock. Under the hood only two wire ties were needed to secure everything in place which helps it look clean and blend in with the original wiring. Here's a few pictures.
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Similar to what I did Bentwheel-Bob. Nice job and very clean. I opted to connect above the battery near the ABS unit with the hood open. I figured that if I forgot I had it hooked up for some reason, I wouldn't drive off with the damn things still plugged in. 
So I use the open hood as a reminder to check things first.
You may also want to remind your self that the car is plugged in by using a towel on the windshield or whatever reminds you that you're still connected before you leave. It's also nice to know that the original battery tender came complete with everything you would need to do the job without having to buy anything else. Good product. It's kept my 10+ year old Optima still working like a charm.ositive:
Al
So I use the open hood as a reminder to check things first.You may also want to remind your self that the car is plugged in by using a towel on the windshield or whatever reminds you that you're still connected before you leave. It's also nice to know that the original battery tender came complete with everything you would need to do the job without having to buy anything else. Good product. It's kept my 10+ year old Optima still working like a charm.
ositive:Al
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This just happened to me.
I have the pig tail hooked up to the back engine bay per my previous posts and the clamp pig tail hooked to my jet ski battery. I change back and forth and always unplug when I move.
Flashing rapid green.
There's an after Thanksgiving special buy at Home Depot on this particular model:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Battery-...Charger-022-0185G-DL-WH/204841739?N=5yc1vZda4
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Battery-...Charger-022-0185G-DL-WH/204841739?N=5yc1vZda4
Bumping an old thread. Is the Battery Tender Junior still the preferred battery charger? If so, what amp? 1.25A, 5A, 750mA, or 800mA?
Thanks!
Asif
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Thanks!
Asif
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Used a different point for grounding as the one from the post above was difficult to access.
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Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
