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Bbsc install by Payne technologies

prova4re said:
No updates yet. Devin had to put my car on the back burner so he could finish up a WRX, with 550hp with 500ftq. :eek:
It might even give you a run for your money. :D
He should start back on it on monday, I am hoping to get it done around the new year.
Later Brian.

Here are some pics Brian. Should be tuning it right after the New Year.
 

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Holy Fricken Crap that is unreal.....:eek:
 
Is it not possible to use the triangular strut bar with your BBSC setup, or have you just not had a change to put it back on after working on the car?
 
My 91 does not have the triangular strut bar, but it would fit with the BBSC. Its the Comptech SC that you have problems with the fitment.
My bar has not been installed yet.

Your the MAN Devin! :p
 
What are all those wires on the left side of the car comming from the trunk to the cockpit? Wires to the flux capacitor? Some secret HP booster? Or just music stuff?


Armando
 
Armando
[Wires to the flux capacitor?] LOL! :D

That's Top Secret!
You can find out at the shoot out in Vegas. ;)
 
Or after, Its to far a drive just for testosterone sake........ but I will be in New York this comming year. Are you doing the Cold Air Intake?


Armando
 
Those wires are for the dvd, nav, amp, and changer.
It is to far, I think Devin is going to bring his car there so I might tag along with him.
I am going to run the 6lb pully for a few months, then install the 8lb pully and cold air intake.
 
Cool Im looking forward to seeing and reading the outcome of the testosterone levels............ I mean HP/Torque numbers. I am sure there will be a few beasts out there, take a dust pan and broom to clean up after a few . See you in New York.

Armando
 
Brian/Devin, In the pics I don't see either of the valve cover vent tubes. How are these being routed? Did you consider modifying the valve cover baffles?
Also, from the pic it looks like your coolant tank is mounted just a tad more to the passanger side than mine, so I don't know if you will have as bad a time as I do when changing oil (access to fill cap). What I did was modify the tank brackets for quick release. I got really tired of the cap falling down the front bank and getting hung-up on something, where I would have to "fish" at it to get it to fall out the bottom of the car.
 
KGP said:
Brian/Devin, In the pics I don't see either of the valve cover vent tubes. How are these being routed? Did you consider modifying the valve cover baffles?
Also, from the pic it looks like your coolant tank is mounted just a tad more to the passanger side than mine, so I don't know if you will have as bad a time as I do when changing oil (access to fill cap).

Didn't finish the install quite yet, but I plan to plum the vents like we do on other race/street cars into a common breather system.

The coolant tank has the same clearance as the other BBSC installs - you are right...it's a tight fit no matter how you look at it.

Updates coming soon
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PaynNSX said:
I plan to plum the vents like we do on other race/street cars into a common breather system.
What about the baffles? I think it is VERY important that they be modified to allow oil that might accumulate on top the baffles to be able to drain down. The OEM configuration will not allow this. At boost, in conjunction with lateral G loading, oil becomes entrapped, and the only exist point is the ventalation tubes. Running to a central can is good, but the amount my car puked (and others') was more than something like the Greddy catch can could hold. Really was/is a dangerous situation.

The coolant tank has the same clearance as the other BBSC installs - you are right...it's a tight fit no matter how you look at it.
I simply cut slots in the bracket that allow me to loosen the mounting bolt and lift the tank out for easy access.
 
KGP, Onr way you can fix that is re-position the vent rear vent to the top of the cover drill some holes in the baffel inside so the oil can't pool there and add a drain in your catch can so it return back. Mine goes in via a Y on the dip stick tube with a check valve. This brings up another point. WHY is this happening. What is the leakdown # of your engine. Dan
 
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I had the same problem running the bbsc. If you install a 1lb check valve going to the front valve cover you will eliminate the excess pressure being pushed into crankcase and thereby reducing the "oil blowby".
 
Just so I'm clear; I don't think this oil puking issue is only related to the BBSC. I think it could happen to any FI'd NSX. Does leakage or blow-by play a role? It couldn't help. But we have seen too many cars with no blow-by symptoms, as was the case with mine, that have had this puking happen to them.

Dan, I like the dipstick routing from the catch can. ;)
 
KGP said:
Just so I'm clear; I don't think this oil puking issue is only related to the BBSC. I think it could happen to any FI'd NSX. Does leakage or blow-by play a role? It couldn't help. But we have seen too many cars with no blow-by symptoms, as was the case with mine, that have had this puking happen to them.

Dan, I like the dipstick routing from the catch can. ;)

This is the way I understand it. The vacuum line from the intake to the front valve cover becomes pressurised once you enter boost. The boost then passes through the oil drain lines in the head to pressurise the crankcase and then pushes this pressure to its only escape and out the back valve cover. If oil is collected in the valve cover from acceleration it is also pushed out wiith the crankcase venting. And you have a nice little mess in your engine compartment.

By adding the check valve it will not let more then 1 psi of boost pass and the crankcase does not become pressurised. Therefore you will eliminate most of this problem. I am sure I would also have this problem with the turbo and that would be the reason why Gerry installed it on my car.


BTW,This is the same check valve that is used for the brake master cylinder.

I do not believe the comptech would have this problem since this vacuum line would not have any pressure due to blower placement.
 
A modified Moroso can like this one works wonders. You can use a breather filter on top for race cars or a rubber PCV adaptor on top for street cars routed back to the manifold. Both side bungs go to the cam covers and the bottom of the can routed back to the block via the dipstick tube stated before (good idea by the way) or other means.

The system is completely self-contained and will constantly drain the excess oil back to the pan.
 

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If you did not have a check valve on the front vent line you will blow out the valve cover gasket. Some setups use the PVC valve that serves the same purpose. Dan
 
tunapie said:
If you did not have a check valve on the front vent line you will blow out the valve cover gasket. Some setups use the PVC valve that serves the same purpose. Dan


I agree except it seems that the PCV by itself cannot hold that much boost back. I added a check valve and no more problems.
 
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