Transmission Swap pt9 (Final)
The big one.
Putting back together the engine bay. Control box reconnected, made sure all the transmission sensors were connected up, starter cables, ground cable, air filter boxes, etc. Just following the FSM for the most part.
Everything reinstalled, and more coolant added. I needed a bit more than a full jug since I lost so much by removing the wrong thermostat housing hose. I didn't really bleed the system but will keep an eye on the level and top up as needed, it shouldn't have much air at all.
New steering column retainer. I read Richard @ LOTW had lost his and the steering had a lot of play so I figured I'd get a new one in case mine was missing/broken. Looked fine but replaced it anyways.
About to remove the key lock thingy. It's the yellow metal box next to the ignition cylinder. Two screws and one annoying connector.
Interlock control unit removed. On RHD cars (maybe LHD too?) it's to the left of the A/T control unit. Speaking of, I left it installed because I re-read the FancyCraft blog and it said that you need it for the EPS control, and he has a whole page where he makes his own PCB to fulfill that role so he could remove the control unit entirely. I don't personally care either way so I left it in, much simpler for me.
This is the best pic I have of the steering column re-installed. How I would have loved to have another person around to help me with this. Instead, it was just me bench pressing the heavy column up and then fitting the stupid U-joint and pinion together exactly the same way it came apart (w/ paint marks). Need to have the key inserted to allow the wheel to turn and help you align the yoke together.
After an hour or so of loud cursing I finally got them together and the bolts back on and torqued. There's a few connectors here and there on the column to put back together now, they're all easily identifiable so no problems there.
Out of order but I adjusted the clutch pedal free play before the steering column. Without the switch installed, the clutch pedal sat a bit higher than the brake pedal and there was a lot of free play. I didn't even really understand what that meant until I read this Kaz post which explained it very well (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1163-Eng-Refresh-15&goto=next). Use one finger to push the pedal in until the resistance noticeably increases, that's the free play.
Switch inserted until the free play was 9-15mm as specified. With the Type-R pedal and no clutch damper, the pedal height it effectively the same as the brake pedal. I didn't touch the pushrod lock nut since Kaz also said the factory setting should be good. I ended up with ~12-13mm of free play to be on the safe side, and will recheck in 100 miles per the SoS specified clutch break-in period.
So very close. After the steering column went back in, just the seats left. After placing the seat in, connect the wiring connectors first, then the seat belt bolt, then the 4 anchor bolts. Worst part of those is getting the last anchor bolt to line up with the mount point, the correct way seems to be to leave all the bolts loose and then torque down after threading them all in. I also reinstalled the battery at this point since you need power to move the seats back & forth to get room to put the anchor bolts in.
All the important parts are back on the car. I'm leaving the rest of the interior off until I can verify everything works like it should, no sense in putting it back together if I just have to remove it again. There's a few little interior things I want to do before I put it back together too, so it might be a few weeks until absolutely everything is back on.
I have the '02 Type-R mesh shift boot which should look nice, also need to order another shift knob since I don't like the cheap one I have on now. Looking at the WC Lathe Works stainless (or titanium) teardrop design (https://www.lathewerks.com/nsx-stainless-steel-teardrop-shift-knob.html) with some options on it, should be a nice looking ergonomic knob.
Anyways, I spent some time and ran through all the swap guide points and FSM procedure again to mentally check through everything I had done. Every bolt, nut, connector, blah blah checked off to make sure I hadn't missed anything. All fluids at the correct level, battery installed, all that. Ready for the first start with the wheels off the ground to let the MTF circulate a bit without load on the fresh gears.
Here it is, folks. Forgive my poor camera work and heavy sighing, I felt like I was about to pass out from nervousness, lol. Months of planning, tons of work and money all came down to this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcXt4foje1I&feature=youtu.be
I can't state enough how much of a relief that was. I let the wheels spin a bit to circulate oil, then reversed it off the lift (for the first time with stick!) and drove around the lot a bit to check it out and drove it back in to check for leaks and all that. Then I spent some time sitting there saying I couldn't believe it actually works.
I made it home .
Man, I need a vacation from my vacation.
In summary, I'd guess I spent about 110 hours give or take a few over 9 days (Sept. 5 to Sept. 13) from start to finish. Not including anything else that wasn't during that week. I am COVERED in scrapes and bruises, haha. I had a helper at a few key parts (clutch bleeding, steering removal, driveshaft install/removal) but most of it was done myself.
Was it worth it? Yeah, only because it works, lol. The ONLY issue I have found so far is that the diff rattles a bit in sharp corners, which I heard might be an issue with some combo of a fresh rebuild and/or the Type-R diff spring. I'll see how it sounds after some breaking in. I also haven't had the chance to test the backup lights or cruise control yet but those would be minor and relatively easy to fix. The car runs great otherwise, no other issues of note (at the moment). (EDIT: Cruise works like it should, haven't tested the lights yet. Some minor gear noise at certain RPM when lugging the engine in high gears which you shouldn't do anyways).
It shifts and sounds great. The clutch pedal action is very smooth and feels great, very communicative. All the new parts (especially the new input shaft collar, fork & throwout bearing) make it a very nice experience, and the damperless hose/Type-R pedal setup feel great too. The shifter is great, very short throws and every gear engages nicely which is to be expected with all the time & money I spent on the parts. I might be doing some minor adjustments here and there to really dial in each shift (1 and 2 are marginally harder to engage), but I'm happy regardless. A nicer shift knob will make a lot of difference.
The power steering works flawlessly I'm happy to say. With the speed sensor from the A/T, the EPS still works even with the 4.23 NSX-R final drive with no other modifications needed besides a spacer on the sensor so it doesn't hit the diff. Works just like it did before, and hopefully the ongoing issue I've had after ~1 hr of driving where the EPS light would come on and the speedo would freak out is now gone with the new-ish VSS1 that came with the new transmission. (EDIT: More driving and the same issue came back. Might be the NC sensor from the auto that was bad, that's all I got...I need to do more diagnosis. EDIT2: Seems like the "new" (old) VSS1 is also going bad)
I have about 100 miles of break-in before I can really go as hard as I want, then I'll changed out the MTF with fresh fluid, check the clutch pedal play, check for leaks, loose bolts, etc. and keep driving. There are quite a few small spin-off projects from this big of a job, including (not in order):
-Testing the cig lighter socket
-Modifying the signal flasher for LEDs
-Nicer shift knob, center console re-install, rest of interior final install
-Testing my wiring work for lights/cruise/etc.
-Helicoil the front mount to trans bolt and one or two other minor ones, plus exhaust tip/flange alignment
-Professional wheel alignment
-Get a USDM M/T ECU or similar, copy over A/T engine data, also will unlock the JDM speed limiter @ 180 KPH
-100 mile clutch break-in, MTF change, free-play adjustment
I will probably be updating these swap posts to add/change info to be more clear since I wrote everything in a rush.
I'd like to thank, in no particular order:
Kaz, for his hundreds of blog posts and replies to my questions explaining all the little details
Honcho/Paul for working with me during planning and providing great info/suggestions
Motormouth/John for his transmission rebuild thread and replies to my posts which saved my ass several times
Drew for providing the swap guide several months ago and for his replies
Wayne for providing most of the hard to find swap parts and answering questions
SoS for providing the clutch kit & slave cyl adapter (and a cool polo)
GoldNSX for his NSXUK gearbox rebuild thread and replies to my question threads
Brian for providing the used 5-speed transmission
Joe @ Cycle Terminal for providing all the factory connectors & terminals
Blake @ Speedhunters for providing the inspiration for this project and for the Project NSX write-ups which are both informative and entertaining to read
Amayama (haha) for providing every single little bolt, gasket, important RHD items like the pedal/shifter/etc. AND all the transmission rebuild parts, which saved me literally $1500-2000 over buying everything in the States which is nuts
e3storage here in GA for providing the work space and lift which made this possible in the first place
Probably some others I'm missing.
I'm serious when I say that without everyone listed, there's 0% chance this would have ever happened. Thanks all above and those following along & commenting here, and I hope I can show you the car and talk shop in person sometime. I'm not even close to being done "improving" the car, so there's plenty more updates to come.
The big one.
Putting back together the engine bay. Control box reconnected, made sure all the transmission sensors were connected up, starter cables, ground cable, air filter boxes, etc. Just following the FSM for the most part.
Everything reinstalled, and more coolant added. I needed a bit more than a full jug since I lost so much by removing the wrong thermostat housing hose. I didn't really bleed the system but will keep an eye on the level and top up as needed, it shouldn't have much air at all.
New steering column retainer. I read Richard @ LOTW had lost his and the steering had a lot of play so I figured I'd get a new one in case mine was missing/broken. Looked fine but replaced it anyways.
About to remove the key lock thingy. It's the yellow metal box next to the ignition cylinder. Two screws and one annoying connector.
Interlock control unit removed. On RHD cars (maybe LHD too?) it's to the left of the A/T control unit. Speaking of, I left it installed because I re-read the FancyCraft blog and it said that you need it for the EPS control, and he has a whole page where he makes his own PCB to fulfill that role so he could remove the control unit entirely. I don't personally care either way so I left it in, much simpler for me.
This is the best pic I have of the steering column re-installed. How I would have loved to have another person around to help me with this. Instead, it was just me bench pressing the heavy column up and then fitting the stupid U-joint and pinion together exactly the same way it came apart (w/ paint marks). Need to have the key inserted to allow the wheel to turn and help you align the yoke together.
After an hour or so of loud cursing I finally got them together and the bolts back on and torqued. There's a few connectors here and there on the column to put back together now, they're all easily identifiable so no problems there.
Out of order but I adjusted the clutch pedal free play before the steering column. Without the switch installed, the clutch pedal sat a bit higher than the brake pedal and there was a lot of free play. I didn't even really understand what that meant until I read this Kaz post which explained it very well (http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1163-Eng-Refresh-15&goto=next). Use one finger to push the pedal in until the resistance noticeably increases, that's the free play.
Switch inserted until the free play was 9-15mm as specified. With the Type-R pedal and no clutch damper, the pedal height it effectively the same as the brake pedal. I didn't touch the pushrod lock nut since Kaz also said the factory setting should be good. I ended up with ~12-13mm of free play to be on the safe side, and will recheck in 100 miles per the SoS specified clutch break-in period.
So very close. After the steering column went back in, just the seats left. After placing the seat in, connect the wiring connectors first, then the seat belt bolt, then the 4 anchor bolts. Worst part of those is getting the last anchor bolt to line up with the mount point, the correct way seems to be to leave all the bolts loose and then torque down after threading them all in. I also reinstalled the battery at this point since you need power to move the seats back & forth to get room to put the anchor bolts in.
All the important parts are back on the car. I'm leaving the rest of the interior off until I can verify everything works like it should, no sense in putting it back together if I just have to remove it again. There's a few little interior things I want to do before I put it back together too, so it might be a few weeks until absolutely everything is back on.
I have the '02 Type-R mesh shift boot which should look nice, also need to order another shift knob since I don't like the cheap one I have on now. Looking at the WC Lathe Works stainless (or titanium) teardrop design (https://www.lathewerks.com/nsx-stainless-steel-teardrop-shift-knob.html) with some options on it, should be a nice looking ergonomic knob.
Anyways, I spent some time and ran through all the swap guide points and FSM procedure again to mentally check through everything I had done. Every bolt, nut, connector, blah blah checked off to make sure I hadn't missed anything. All fluids at the correct level, battery installed, all that. Ready for the first start with the wheels off the ground to let the MTF circulate a bit without load on the fresh gears.
Here it is, folks. Forgive my poor camera work and heavy sighing, I felt like I was about to pass out from nervousness, lol. Months of planning, tons of work and money all came down to this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcXt4foje1I&feature=youtu.be
I can't state enough how much of a relief that was. I let the wheels spin a bit to circulate oil, then reversed it off the lift (for the first time with stick!) and drove around the lot a bit to check it out and drove it back in to check for leaks and all that. Then I spent some time sitting there saying I couldn't believe it actually works.
I made it home .
Man, I need a vacation from my vacation.
In summary, I'd guess I spent about 110 hours give or take a few over 9 days (Sept. 5 to Sept. 13) from start to finish. Not including anything else that wasn't during that week. I am COVERED in scrapes and bruises, haha. I had a helper at a few key parts (clutch bleeding, steering removal, driveshaft install/removal) but most of it was done myself.
Was it worth it? Yeah, only because it works, lol. The ONLY issue I have found so far is that the diff rattles a bit in sharp corners, which I heard might be an issue with some combo of a fresh rebuild and/or the Type-R diff spring. I'll see how it sounds after some breaking in. I also haven't had the chance to test the backup lights or cruise control yet but those would be minor and relatively easy to fix. The car runs great otherwise, no other issues of note (at the moment). (EDIT: Cruise works like it should, haven't tested the lights yet. Some minor gear noise at certain RPM when lugging the engine in high gears which you shouldn't do anyways).
It shifts and sounds great. The clutch pedal action is very smooth and feels great, very communicative. All the new parts (especially the new input shaft collar, fork & throwout bearing) make it a very nice experience, and the damperless hose/Type-R pedal setup feel great too. The shifter is great, very short throws and every gear engages nicely which is to be expected with all the time & money I spent on the parts. I might be doing some minor adjustments here and there to really dial in each shift (1 and 2 are marginally harder to engage), but I'm happy regardless. A nicer shift knob will make a lot of difference.
The power steering works flawlessly I'm happy to say. With the speed sensor from the A/T, the EPS still works even with the 4.23 NSX-R final drive with no other modifications needed besides a spacer on the sensor so it doesn't hit the diff. Works just like it did before, and hopefully the ongoing issue I've had after ~1 hr of driving where the EPS light would come on and the speedo would freak out is now gone with the new-ish VSS1 that came with the new transmission. (EDIT: More driving and the same issue came back. Might be the NC sensor from the auto that was bad, that's all I got...I need to do more diagnosis. EDIT2: Seems like the "new" (old) VSS1 is also going bad)
I have about 100 miles of break-in before I can really go as hard as I want, then I'll changed out the MTF with fresh fluid, check the clutch pedal play, check for leaks, loose bolts, etc. and keep driving. There are quite a few small spin-off projects from this big of a job, including (not in order):
-Testing the cig lighter socket
-Modifying the signal flasher for LEDs
-Nicer shift knob, center console re-install, rest of interior final install
-Testing my wiring work for lights/cruise/etc.
-Helicoil the front mount to trans bolt and one or two other minor ones, plus exhaust tip/flange alignment
-Professional wheel alignment
-Get a USDM M/T ECU or similar, copy over A/T engine data, also will unlock the JDM speed limiter @ 180 KPH
-100 mile clutch break-in, MTF change, free-play adjustment
I will probably be updating these swap posts to add/change info to be more clear since I wrote everything in a rush.
I'd like to thank, in no particular order:
Kaz, for his hundreds of blog posts and replies to my questions explaining all the little details
Honcho/Paul for working with me during planning and providing great info/suggestions
Motormouth/John for his transmission rebuild thread and replies to my posts which saved my ass several times
Drew for providing the swap guide several months ago and for his replies
Wayne for providing most of the hard to find swap parts and answering questions
SoS for providing the clutch kit & slave cyl adapter (and a cool polo)
GoldNSX for his NSXUK gearbox rebuild thread and replies to my question threads
Brian for providing the used 5-speed transmission
Joe @ Cycle Terminal for providing all the factory connectors & terminals
Blake @ Speedhunters for providing the inspiration for this project and for the Project NSX write-ups which are both informative and entertaining to read
Amayama (haha) for providing every single little bolt, gasket, important RHD items like the pedal/shifter/etc. AND all the transmission rebuild parts, which saved me literally $1500-2000 over buying everything in the States which is nuts
e3storage here in GA for providing the work space and lift which made this possible in the first place
Probably some others I'm missing.
I'm serious when I say that without everyone listed, there's 0% chance this would have ever happened. Thanks all above and those following along & commenting here, and I hope I can show you the car and talk shop in person sometime. I'm not even close to being done "improving" the car, so there's plenty more updates to come.
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