Break In... Good or Bad?

[NVSNSX]

Hey guys, I don't know if this has been posted before, but I was just wondering what your take and view is on this topic. MotoMan's Break In Process... Basically the article states "screw the recommended break in schedule" on newly purchased cars and just run them hard. Brillant or just plain BS?

 

[hlweyl]

I've read that before and I can imagine pulling up to my local service department after thrashing my new engine, conversation would go something like.....

Service writer: "Did you follow the manufacturers guidelines for the correct break-in procedure?"

Me: "Uh no, I read this article...like .....on the internet... and this dude..... uh motoman said to like.... don't follow the break-in procedure... like just flog the hell out of the engine when its new... he really knows his s@#$%"

So I would have to say Honda engineers know slightly more than Motodummy. Different types of valve tranes require different break-in procedures.

There's alot of know-it-alls in the world. Take for example my neighbor, who's house tested high for Radon (over 4 times the gov't recommended level) decided just to let it go. He said some guy from work told him Radon isn't really a problem. He knows my background is in Nuclear Medicine(use of radioactive isotopes for diagnostic or therapeutic purposes) and chose to go his own route. Oh well, can't save the world.

 

[JOPRIMO]

I'm not an expert on this subject. But motoguy says:

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

My question: How many laps to the Honda engineers take around the track when an NSX is rolled off the line? I read somewhere here that they do this. How many miles is that? How hard do they drive it? Things that make you go "hmmm?"

 

[chriswtx]

All I can say is that opionions vary. With todays precise machining processes it does not take long for the rings to break in. The tech. has changed over the years and so has the breakin procedures. I have a 91' Corvette and I ran the snot out of it from day one, no breakin. It was trouble free for 10 years and 134,000 miles, when I spun a rod bearing. Not the cars fault, for some reason TPI smallblocks dont like over 6400rpm and I did it often

I think it has to do more with the type of rings you are using and the finish hone on your cylinders. In the old days you would see #400stone finish, now you see #600 finish.

Same goes for police cars, the engines get no respect, thrashed from day one with no break in, all day in 100deg heat with a/c on full blast and they typically see over 100,000 miles no problems.

I'm not planning on a long breakin on my 600hp 400ci small block for the Corvette. Everything is precisely machined, #600 finish, gapless moly rings and exact bearing clearences. I'm going to start it, let it warm up for 15 min or so, check for leaks, do a test drive to include 4-5 runs at 60% throttle to 70 mph and 5500rpm then letting the engine brake(as in slow) the car down with its compression back to 20 mph or 1500rpm between each run.
Then mabey 200 miles below 6000rpms and 75% throttle, readjust valves and head to the dyno....

Just my 2cents, I have built a few engines over the years and all of them are still runing with no problems. Some of them were small blocks, Porsche 911 3.0 and 944 turbo, Toyota MR2 turbo, big blocks, air plane engines and others...I think its all in the details of the assembly process and matching the machining processes to your parts.

I think that the big car manufactures have such careful breakins is to cover their butts just in case a clearencs is to tight or a cylinder was mis-honed. This would allow for the parts to "clearence themselves" without doing damage right away and would probably show its head if you ran it hard from the getgo. It's probably some bean counters way to save money on warrenty claims.

 

[coolnsx]

I would never follow the "rough is better" idea. After all this isn't sex I just installed a crate motor in my El Camino. Ran 1000 miles with regular 10-30, changed and ran 3000 more. All of those miles were "normal" driving. Will switch to Mobil One at 4000. This was the result of input from many smart grease monkeys and Chevy dealer input.

 

[chriswtx]

The catch words "crate motor" and "Chevy dealer" you never know what you get in a crate motor.

 

[coolnsx]

chriswtc, you generally get a factory built replacement motor less bolt ons with zero miles. BTW the new carb was 1/3 the cost of the entire new engine; something is wrong here.

 

[chriswtx]

yep, I've done 5 factory remans for customers this month. 3 fords and 2 chevys. They are great buys for around $1800 with 3 year 50,000mile warrantys typical. Got to love the hot summer days in Texas, it reeks havoc on cars. The first day it hits 100deg they are dropping like flys, anternators, waterpumps, blown head gaskets(did 4 last month and its only in the 80's), A/C repairs and so on...

 

[coolnsx]

Chriswtz: looking at the weather it will only get better from here.

 

[coolnsx]

chriswtz, I did replace the water pump, starter, alternater, belts, hoses and carb; I hope I'm covered!

 

[chriswtx]

We also always send the radiator to get cleaned and pressure checked when we do an engine...and dont forget fuel filter.

 

[coolnsx]

Chriswtx: check, new radiator and filters changed! Also rebuilt the A/T so I've got a new '83 Elco! Must say this is the best "driver car" anyone could ever have. A little of a truck/little of a car 20 MPG/retro, this car is old enough to drink!