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changing clutch, need info for removal

Joined
4 May 2001
Messages
108
Location
Stockholm, Sweden
My cluch gave up today, expected but not so soon. Anyway, I will do the change myself, and started looking in the service manual.
Hoooaaa, you need to disassembly a big chunk of the rear.
Now to the question, is it easier to remove the whole engine/transmission combined, or just the transmisson? from the manual it looks like the same amout of work. Or can the cluch be worked on with the transmission still in the car?
 
Swede,

You do not have to remove the drive train to do the clutch. The trans has to come out. For doing the clutch I think it is less work to just pull the trans. If you pull the drive train out, you will need to remove the interior panels, behind the seats, to get to the wiring harness that comes out with the engine, also you will need to drain the coolant, and disconnect the water hoses (which usually require you to cut them out and replace them), then you will need to bleed the cooling system.

The real problem for us "backyarder's" is that to drop the drive train you will need to raise the car, with the drive train up on stands. The car must come up straight, so you really need a two post lift, to raise the car off the drive train. It is mounted to the body with long studs that require a very "straight" lift to get the car off the drive train cradle. A floor jack will not really do it.

Pull the trans, make sure you understand about the "initialization" process if you install the dual plate OEM clutch as a replacement (or any dual plate aftermarket version).

You will also need a "pilot shaft" to reinstall the clutch assy. I acquired an old mainshaft for my toolbox.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Larry,

In the online manual the initializationprocess is crossed out.

Any reason for this?

(i have to do my tranny, and a flywheel in the process)


Mich
 
Mich,

You do need to do the initialization on the dual plate clutch. It is actually very easy. If your exhaust system is stock it's a piece of cake. If you have headers it is a little harder since you do it from the "front" of the flywheel (engine side).

I recently spend the day with Mark Basch in Phili and got to do this with him first hand. You should do it AFTER the trans has been reinstalled. There are three small threaded holes on the flywheel at about 120 degrees apart (not exactly though). You will need a 5mm bolt as described in the service manaul, or (a trick I learned) is to use one of the small black bolts that hold the plastic covers for the injectors on the engine.

Once the clutch is in and the trans is installed rotate the crank (clockwise) so you can get to one threaded hole. Install the bolt by hand until is makes contact with the guide. You will feel it. Then using a 8mm wrench, continue turning with light pressure until you feel is hit the mid-plate. I turned the wrench with two fingers. Once you feel it get firm, stop, rotate the crank about 120 degrees and do the next one and so on.

What you are doing is positioning the guide against the mid-plate. Once the guide hits the mid-plate you are set. The key here is not to tighten it, like you mean it! Just enough so it stops.

Mark explained this is best done after the trans is in, so nothing will disturb the setting, once the trans is in place.

Also in the service manual there is a whole set of instructions about removing the mid-plate guides, etc. This part is all done already on the new clutch/midplate, (at least on the ACT clutch, but I cannot see it being any different on another OEM style)so for the most part this is a bolt on task.

Another thing we did, which is a really good idea, when installing the pressure plate is to number the bolt holes on the pressure plate(1-9)in a cross pattern, and turn them in 1/4 turn at a time and work your way around the pressure plate accordingly. If not,it can warp.

Make sure you get the clutch disks in the proper positions, we did an ACT clutch and they were marked. Make sure that the pressure plate and mid-plate are aligned with the flywheel properly with the arrows.

One other thing that is very important is the grease type and quantity. You must use the Urea grease from Honda. To grease the clutch splines properly (after the clutch is installed on the flywheel, remove the pilot shaft and apply grease to it, not too much, then insert the pilot shaft into the assembled clutch and move it in and out a few times. That's all the grease you need on the clutch splines. Grease the slot inside the throwout bearing, and LIGHTLY grease the throwout bearing sleeve and clutch fork.

Remember that grease will attract the clutch dust, so more is not better. (clutch shudder)

Let me know if you have any questions.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Thanks for the detailed desrciption Larry,

I just got my gears out of the tranny, since i will be throwing some short gears in as well, and noticed that when turning the diff on it's own in the lower housing, the sound is not what i expected it to be. Don't know how it should sound, butit sure doesn't sound how i like it.

Got my hands on a Dali featherlite flywheel, and a racing clutch, but the aluminium of the flywheel looks sort of burned, and has some very small 'hair' cracks in it. Dunnu to use it, or bin it. Might try to get it repaired ???


Anyway, thankx for the help again.

Mich
 
Mich,
Obviously at this point you know how much work it is! I would think carefully about this flywheel, sounds borderline to me.

I would e-mail Mark Johnson at Dali, and seek his advise on this.

Sorry I cannot say more.

Thanks,
LarryB
 
Good write up Larry. I had a great time disecting my transmission with Mark as well. Watching Mark work on the gears is like watching a surgeon.

-- Chris

------------------
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As a follow-up, and after a few weeks...

I got the flywheel re-finished, and it looked really good. So i decided to use it.
Put the clutch back on, and used the 'old' mainshaft for centering. Worked great! The gearbox went on like nothing i've ever seen.
Followed up Larry's advise on the clutch re-initializing which went great as well. I couldn't understand fully from the manual 'why' this had to be done, but after some time with the clutch-assy in my hands, i think i understand it now. When putting some light torque on the bolts to re-initialize, i could hear a little 'ping' knowing that the thing came free.
It must have gone as it should be, coz me clutch is like never before.
The shortgears are lovely as well, and together with my light flywheel, i have a different car.

And yes, .... i did it all on the garage floor, no lift.

Thankx Larry for the help.


Mich
 
Mich,

You are the MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!! Glad it all worked out. Isn't is great when a plan comes together
smile.gif


Regards,
LarryB
 
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