clutch bleed - RSVP

[skyguy]

My clutch needs bleeding. Seems the clutch got a little mushy and ah, er, well the fluid in the resevoir was/is a little, (read lot) low. There are no leaks and I just let it go for a little too long. *No flames please.

Other than locating the clutch slave cylinder,(where is that little bugger?) and attaching a tube immersed in a clean bottle with dot 4 fluid and having a block behind the clutch pedal so the wife dosen't push the pedal to he floor and making sure the resevoir dosen't get too low while bleeding......Is there anything I missed?

*Yeah I could use a speed bleeder, but I wanna do it tommorrow and not wait on shipping.

Thanks in advance!

 

[MJK]

Slave is attached to the backside of the tranny. If memory serves, taking off the shift linkage cover (grey plastic) on the tranny makes the job much easier.

Pardon me for saying so, but the fluid doesn't vaporize - are you sure you don't have a problem with the master or slave? As long as you are bleeding it, I might check or just replace the master & slave (get a speedbleeder too). Its an easy DIY.

 

[Hugh]

Not necessary to remove the linkage cover to bleed. The nipple is easy to get to for a simple bleed operation.

 

[Briank]

Also there is no need to block the clutch petal as it operates through its full range of travel all the time unlike the brakes. Also it may not come back up on its own so just don’t be surprised by that.

 

[Ojas]

I did this a few weeks ago and used these instructions. Notice that on the last pump, you should only go about half-way down.

I also did not have a Speed Bleeder and had no problems. In fact, I was able to bleed just fine by myself using one of those inexpensive one-person kit things available at auto parts stores.

 

[D'Ecosse]

One caution - keep an eye on the level while you'e bleeding - the reservoir is small & it is only too easy to empty & suck more air in.

Oh - the vanishing fluid? You have a leaky cylinder, one or other or both. There is a thread if you search with instructions & pics on how to replace them.

 

[hlweyl]

White 94 and D'Ecosse are correct, if the fluid level is low in the clutch master cylinder, you have a leak. It doesn't burn off like oil. Time to replace the master and slave... sorry.

Best of luck

 

[skyguy]

Thanks for all the replies. It was easy to bleed the clutch, no problem. I checked for any signs of leaks and there is none? looked closely around the master and slave. anyway, it works fine and hopefully it will stay alright. It's a mystery and I'm sure I'll find out soon.

Thanks again for all the responses.

Skyguy

 

[MJK]

If it is losing fluid, and you don't see it under the car it is likely either:

1. The master - you can usually see signs from either footwell (wet shaft, visibly deteriorated seals, etc) or under the hood (black crap in the fluid reservior, etc).
2. The slave - attached to the tranny and tougher to spot. In either case, it is probably leaking from the fluid side through the seal into either the passenger compartment(master) or the rubber boot surrounding the slave.

I am not trying to argue with you, but the change is not hard, the parts are not expensive and IMO you clearly have a problem. PS, removing the linkage cover is useful in replacing the slave not bleeding. Sorry for the poor wording.

FWIW, my master was failing/leaking at 9 years and ~44k.

 

[Hugh]

I thought I had a leaky slave and replaced it. It had over 110k on it so it was good preventative maintenance anyway. However I was still leaking fluid from the flexible hose that feeds the slave. If you're going to replace the slave, change the hose as well.

It took forever to bleed after changing out the hose due to the air that got in the system.

 

[drew]

I checked for any signs of leaks and there is none?

That is unlikely based on your condition.

Did you look underneath the carpet??? It will drip from the inside of the car...you really have to look for it. It will make the rubber boot and push rod wet too.

By time it becomes apparant: you have major damage and a big gooey mess.

Drew

 

[hlweyl]

Frequently when the slave is leaking, it will still stay dry under the car. Very hard to spot. I would plan on making the change soon if I were you, you don't want to be caught clutch-less out there.

good luck

 

[skyguy]

OK, So all of you who said it's leaking please step forward one step..........
Thank you. I award you the medal of knowledge.

I parked the NSX on cardboard overnight and low and behold a very, very small couple of drops of dot 3 evidence the next AM under the slave cylinder.

I ordered the complete new unit from asian auto parts shipped for $89.00. The best price I could muster on the web.

I did order the speedbleeder!

Now, I have the NSX shop manual CD and have reviewed it and will tackle the job as soon as my part arrives. my question is has anyone have any "gotchas"
that you know of? Yes, I made sure the new slave comes with a new "O" ring.


Any feedback is welcome.

Skyguy

 

[drew]

my question is has anyone have any "gotchas"

I recommend that you replace the master as well. Ok, I strongly recommend it.

Recommend Al Terpaks awesome clutch line upgrade.

Get yourself a set of FLARE NUT wrenches. DO NOT attempt this job without them, they are worth their weight in pure [insert extremely valuable substance here]. Repeat: DO NOT attempt this job without flare nut wrenches.

There are exactly SIX pumps before the reservoir goes empty. Do NOT let it or the line go empty....very difficult to build pressure again.

Drew

 

[MJK]

I'd replace the master too, read this if you are going to do it also.
Good call on the speedbleeder.
I'd remove the linkage cover to change the slave.
I'd grease the tip of the slave pushrod plunger prior to installing.
I'd make sure I had PLENTY of fluid.
Brake fluid is bad for paint, have cleanup materials hand.

If you switch color brake fluid (i.e. ATE superblue/gold), it is easier to tell where you are in the bleed process.

 

[drew]

Follow up:

On the master clutch cylinder removal "FAQ"/Post" it says

Alternately you could undue the clutch pipe at the other end and remove it with the MC. I didn't, but if I ever do this again I will try it that way.

Yes, do it THAT way. Leave the hard pipe on at the cylinder and take it off at the manifold.

In addition to ONLY using <i>flare nut wrenches</i> you must hand tighten down each flare nut a few turns before putting the wrench on them. (If you need to borrow flare nut wrenches I am offering to borrow them to you...just pay shipping. I can't say enough about using these wrenches. You will be in a world of hurt if you round off the nut edges or mis-thread them.)

Drew

 

[D'Ecosse]

Pictorial guide here

 

[skyguy]

Replaced slave and everything is oky doky. Thanks for all the helpful replies from the greatest NSX owners here on the Prime.

Skyguy

 

[y11ngdanjr]

I thought I had a leaky slave and replaced it. It had over 110k on it so it was good preventative maintenance anyway. However I was still leaking fluid from the flexible hose that feeds the slave. If you're going to replace the slave, change the hose as well.

It took forever to bleed after changing out the hose due to the air that got in the system.

Where exactly is this hose? What is it called? I just replaced my master and slave and it seems like it is still leaking from a hose connected right under the master by the firewall. Is that the hose that connects to the slave?

Thanks!

 

[TyraNSX]

No, there is a short hardline from clutch master to junction block near firewall & a black braided hose that pushes onto the end of the master. Is it possible one or both of these is loose? Check the little clamp for the black hose. You should hope for this, otherwise you might have cross threaded one of the flare nuts. Be certain to start all flare nuts by hand for several turns before using flare nut wrench. I got a nice set of Gearwrench flex head ones on eBay for $20. Like Drew said, don't even try using regular wrenches.

Where exactly is this hose? What is it called? I just replaced my master and slave and it seems like it is still leaking from a hose connected right under the master by the firewall. Is that the hose that connects to the slave?

Thanks!

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Where exactly is this hose? What is it called? I just replaced my master and slave and it seems like it is still leaking from a hose connected right under the master by the firewall. Is that the hose that connects to the slave?

Thanks!

I assume when you say "I" replaced the slave you had it done, if not you had your hand on the hose during the change. Rubber hose that bolts directly to the slave cylinder. On the master there is only a hose from the reservoir to the master fill, that is not under pressure and I have never seen it leak.

So it is the hose from the firewall to the slave, about 12' long w/2 10mm bolts at the slave end of the hose.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[y11ngdanjr]

I thought I had a leaky slave and replaced it. It had over 110k on it so it was good preventative maintenance anyway. However I was still leaking fluid from the flexible hose that feeds the slave. If you're going to replace the slave, change the hose as well.

It took forever to bleed after changing out the hose due to the air that got in the system.

I assume when you say "I" replaced the slave you had it done, if not you had your hand on the hose during the change. Rubber hose that bolts directly to the slave cylinder. On the master there is only a hose from the reservoir to the master fill, that is not under pressure and I have never seen it leak.

So it is the hose from the firewall to the slave, about 12' long w/2 10mm bolts at the slave end of the hose.

HTH,
LarryB

.

Thanks Larry, to answer your question my friend and I changed both the master and slave. I just got my NSX a few months ago and one day the pedal was on the ground, checked the fluid and it was all gone. I checked the clutch pedal and seemed wet with fluid so I decided to check the forums and everyone said it was either the slave or master so I changed both. It seems like this hose leaks when I press on the clutch. Is it hard to change that hose? What is this part called so I can ask the dealer for it. I bled the system and found this leak, so does that mean the system was not bled properly due to this leak? Thank you for all your help!

 

[Larry Bastanza]

#19 - 46970-SL0-A02 HOSE, CLUTCH

Go Here:

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...omp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

Not hard to change, you had one end off already.

Like changing a brake line at the other end....

Regards,
LarryB

 

[y11ngdanjr]

Thanks Larry for that diagram,

It seems like I see brake fluid around #14

<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR class=alternatecolor1><TD class=modeldisp noWrap align=left nowrap;>46961-SL0-A01</TD><TD class=modeldisp>PIPE B, CLUTCH</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

on the interior under the dash around the pipe, and it seems to be leaking from the firewall onto the ground. Is this all I need to change? Do I need the gromet as well?
<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR class=alternatecolor1><TD class=modeldisp noWrap align=left nowrap;>4. 46908-SL0-000</TD><TD class=modeldisp>GROMMET, CLUTCH PIPE</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Does this sound like something that needs to be changed in most NSX's? I have a 95 with about 83k. Thanks!


<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR class=alternatecolor1><TD class=modeldisp noWrap align=left nowrap;></TD><TD class=modeldisp></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

[Larry Bastanza]

That is all. #4 is a grommet for the pipe coming throught he firewall, not a seal...