already? 2 years? OEM?
Thanks for the quick response & advice, I really appreciate it. I'll order said parts now.Since the M/S going bad does seem premature for the age, and the pic really does look like it is the hose, I would agree that is the issue. The challenge will be getting the hose loose at its top mount(short wrench will help, but USE A LINE WRENCH ONLY), probably best working from the top to loosen it, once loose pretty easy swap. Make sure you get the o-ring for the slave end. 46970-SL0-A02 HOSE, CLUTCH this P/N does include the o-ring.
HTH,
LarryB
I recall it being a 10mm, exactly like the brake lines........
Since the M/S going bad does seem premature for the age, and the pic really does look like it is the hose, I would agree that is the issue. The challenge will be getting the hose loose at its top mount(short wrench will help, but USE A LINE WRENCH ONLY), probably best working from the top to loosen it, once loose pretty easy swap. Make sure you get the o-ring for the slave end. 46970-SL0-A02 HOSE, CLUTCH this P/N does include the o-ring.
HTH,
LarryB
also - everyone saying that the slave is impossible to access from above on a 2000+ cars - not sure I agree with you. I was having a hell of a time lining the slave up with it's mounting holes from below. I tried from above after removing the airbox and had it lined up in 30 seconds. Being able to see the holes really helps.
Edit: Thought I'd finish this up monday night but I guess my new slave (oem) was defective. Just as the system started to get some pressure I heard a leak from the rear - fluid was leaking past the seal inside the slave and into the rubber boot around the piston. After I unbolted the slave to see what was going on, the inner cup pushed out past the slave cylinder body. Pretty sure it's not supposed to look like this! I don't want to wait a week to get another one at the dealer or at an online acura dealer (this one was ordered from delray acura), so I ordered the centric slave from rockauto with next day shipping. The centric master I ordered from them was 100% identical to the OEM one, we'll see if the slave is perhaps the same as well.
The reason you are having this issue is because the piston was not set into the cup in the shift fork when installed. Again due to the tight space because of the air pump system, it is very hard to get the slave placed properly from above. I am not talking about the mounting bolts, but the piston/fork alignment(inside the boot). Frankly you got the bolts to align easily from the top because the piston was not aligned properly. When the piston is set into the fork correctly, you need to apply pressure to the slave to get it into the proper position, and at the same time put the bolts into place. I just did this last evening and I will stick to my comments, bottom is way easier! BTW, did you remove BOTH of the plastic lower covers(top and bottom) of the shift linkage, then remove the shift cable mount (3 -12mm bolts)?
LMK
Regards,
LarryB
Any tips on filling a clutch system that has pretty much no fluid in it? Thanks for your help, as always.
Fill and pump, checking the reservoir every 5 pumps. It will be fine
Regards,
LarryB
Interesting to read different recommendation depending on one's background and country. I always recommend replacing the CL master/slave/hose as a set. While the hose tends to survive longer than the master/slave, it will start leaking from the edge of metal crimped fitting where the rubber hose starts.
It's probably too late for you but when installing the new slave cyl, remove the clear plastic dust seal cap that came with the cyl, push in the spigot as far as possible and then place back the clear cap in place.
It will hold the spigot in compressed position that you can install the slave cyl without fighting against the pressure from the release fork.
If you have spare cap, place it on the mating end of the CL hose. It will stop the CL fluid from leaking while you are dealing with the slave cyl.
Kaz
I am reviving this old thread because, as stated here, "my clutch pedal went to the floor." So I can see that I need to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave. And since my 1991 is now 26 years old, I suppose it would also be smart to replace both hoses in the system as well. But i would like to tap into the knowlege base here to make sure I don't miss something.
My 1991 Sebring silver is the quintessential garage queen. I drive it 4-6 times per year about 50-125 miles each time I take it out. In the past 10 years I have only accumulated 3500 miles and the current odometer reading is 53,400 miles. Original clutch and I haven't changed the clutch fluid in 10 years.
The last time I drove it was 3 weeks ago and everything felt great. When I went to start it yesterday, the clutch pedal went to the floor. Looking under the engine, there is a small fluid stain that would be consistent with a leaking slave. Feeling under the carpet and up to the master cylinder, there does not seem to be any evidence of leaked fluid. Clutch fluid was low in the reservoir, but not empty. I added dot3 and pumped the clutch pedal, but no luck. I losened the bleeder on the slave, no fluid at all came out. I removed the bleed valve and it was dry as a bone. I have tied to gravity bleed, but no fluid at all comes out the bleeder. Therefore, I expect that I will have to call and have it towed from my garage to the shop, unless there is sonething else I can try. All input welcome.
I also see from this thread that the clutch master cylinder and slave sold at Rock auto appear to be identical to oem. If this is true, it would save me $150 to order from rock auto instead of from 247hondaparts. Any reason to not buy from rock auto? Any other advice? TIA