Anyone have any suggestions for a new clutch? I would like to get feedback on different manufacturer clutchs to figure out which one would be the best.
Exedy Hyper single clutch?
Clutch MAsters Stage 3?
RPS?
OEM?
feedback needed since the car is going in on Friday for work including a new clutch.
Excedy single disk is a nightmare, it chatters and peddle pressure will make one leg bigger than the other in no time. I had this for a few months but had to change it.
RPS - lightened flywheel and is suppose to hold up pretty well but again the peddle pressure is super heavy. Whoever says its ok probably didn't feel it before they put thiers in b/c this is def. a workout.
I have a centerforce clutch w/ jun lightened flywheel and the pedel pressure is almost stock and held up to around 15,000 miles of beating with a supercharger.
I have the Comptech Powergrip II clutch. The peddle pressure is very heavy, but it holds the power like crazy. The bad part is the price. The Powergrip II is one of the most expensive clutches on the market. I bought the car with the clutch in it and when it goes out I plan on putting in a RPS because I have heard good things about it.
how much was the centerforce? And how is it compared to the rps in terms of reliability and performance? Im also in the market for a new clutch. Having my eyes on the rps but it just went up $200 dollars for anodized flywheel which no one can see. I cant seem to justify.
My original factory clutch lasted 130,000 miles. Unless your motor is modified and puts out way more horsepower than stock there is no reason on Earth to go with anything other than the OEM clutch. Be careful, a lot of aftermarket stuff is just crap they sell to the public because they couldn't get an OEM contract.
I have the RPS clutch in my car. I've got over 3000 miles on it and have loved every second of it. There is more pedal pressure than stock, but I love it. No chatter. Once you get the pedal pressure down the launch is extremely smooth. I've driven in stop and go traffic no problem. I weigh about 175 lbs and have an muscular build. The only significant complaint I heard about pedal pressure was from a guy who weighed 145 lbs. So you decide. It doesn't bother me at all. If your not a light weight I would recommend this clutch! The link to my install thread is here. It contains pics and some comments from others who have the same setup. Good luck in your search! Also, if you do a quick search you should find many threads about each of the products you're interested in.
Im surprised no one has wrttien on the clutch masters stage 3.......Gerry at Performance Autoworx swears by it and its seems to be the best for you money so he tells me. Any one have this one istalled that can concur?
My original factory clutch lasted 130,000 miles. Unless your motor is modified and puts out way more horsepower than stock there is no reason on Earth to go with anything other than the OEM clutch. Be careful, a lot of aftermarket stuff is just crap they sell to the public because they couldn't get an OEM contract.
I have a guy locally who is running GruppeM supercharged car and he says he has had alot of problems with the aftermarkets he has tried and has gone back to his stock clutch.No problems so far.
My car needs a clutch as well and have pondered this question of clutches myself but because I have decided to build a High HP motor I am going to sell the Stock Honda clutch for a $900.00 plus shipping.This is BRAND NEW IN THE BOX.If interested PM me.It will be posted in the sale column soon.
Stacy
My OEM clutch sometimes shudders. This is a disappointment; no clutch on any other manual shift car I've owned shuddered as the NSX does.
The word I've gotten from reading clutch threads here is that shudder is not unusual for OEM. If there are aftermarket brands that aren't prone to shudder, I doubt I'll get another OEM clutch when mine wears out.
If you don't mind a 50% increase in pedal pressure which you get used to fairly quickly, RPS is the way to go.
The clutch engagement is smoother tha stock and can handle 400 RWHP all day long. It's about half the weight of the OEM clutch and only about $400 more from SOS.
My OEM clutch sometimes shudders. This is a disappointment...If there are aftermarket brands that aren't prone to shudder, I doubt I'll get another OEM clutch when mine wears out.
Im surprised no one has wrttien on the clutch masters stage 3.......Gerry at Performance Autoworx swears by it and its seems to be the best for you money so he tells me. Any one have this one istalled that can concur?
I have a Clutch Masters modified PGII on my car..
The clutch is either on or off... No in between, and your left calf will be much larger than your right...
As far as the best, you have to look at it from a need perspective..
Someone was listing a brand new OEM clutch at a significant savings in the marketplace...
I agree with Hugh....
i dont know what i got in mine but its a racing clutch. The engagement is off and on......... you have to slip the clutch at higher RPMs to get it going or the whole car chatters, also the clutch is stiff.... if you dont have a good knee... racing clutch is not hte way to go. I would stick iwth stock if your not doing anything crazy. :biggrin:
In my red one the clutch is OEM and is very nice for street driving.
Im surprised no one has wrttien on the clutch masters stage 3.......Gerry at Performance Autoworx swears by it and its seems to be the best for you money so he tells me. Any one have this one istalled that can concur?
I run the CM Stage 3 dual disk. I love it, excellent gripping. Stop and go traffic it shutters a bit 'cause the kevlar is heating up wanting to grip. On the drag strip is is a grippy mother. Very little difference in pedal pressure from stock.
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