CV Joints

[E-Nough Logic]

So I blew up the CV Joint Rollers in my drivers side axle, both inner and outer were in pieces, and havent checked the pass side yet. These seem to be my 4 choices, but any others would be appreciated:

1-OEM at $400 a CV Joint or $800 per axle
2-Driving Ambition $200 per knuckle upgraded rollers (Comments from anyone running these please?)
3-Get them rebuilt at a local shop, (Have people gone this route a lot?)
4-I found this axle listed below for an aftermarket replacement, but unfortunately only available for drivers side which i do definitely need. (May need some convincing to at least not give this a try and see how they hold up. If they are even available anymore.)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...k=Search_01424_1000854_750&pt=01424&ppt=C0362

On a side not what a nightmare getting the axle out of the hub. I had to remove the entire knuckle with both upper and lower control arms attached and press out the axle. I basically destroyed the outer axle spline shaft trying to hammer it out. Mushroomed over the and of the axle, I could probably machine it but rather get new.

 

[goldNSX]

...trying to hammer it out.

They use a hammer on cars in Usbekistan. :wink:

I'd get a used one. They hardly ever fail.

 

[nigel]

You can get a boot / grease rebuild kit for cheap from Honda and do it yourself if you caught it before the lack of grease ruined the joints themselves.
Just a good cleaning and follow the manual.

Cheers
nigel

 

[E-Nough Logic]

You can get a boot / grease rebuild kit for cheap from Honda and do it yourself if you caught it before the lack of grease ruined the joints themselves.
Just a good cleaning and follow the manual.

Cheers
nigel

Boots were in good condition with tons of grease. The rollers inside were what failed though so there's no salvaging the joints.

 

[onestepx]

Hey PM me I'm pretty sure I have a near mint condition Drivers side complete assembly cv axel for sale.I haven't posted because I was saving it as a spare.

 

[pgilliam1]

I have installed the axle from O'Reily and it's a quality part. No need to replace the passenger side if it looks OK. Just clean out and repack the joints. The OEM boot clamps are reusable if you take them off carefully and my boots at 120K miles on a 1991 were still pliable and reusable too. Once I took the rear drivers side strut off completely, the axle fell off. Be sure to buy an extra tranny oil seal because they are easy to tear. The holding nut was a PITA. Had to soak it in PB Blaster for 2 days and finally an impact spun it off. Good Luck!

 

[OLDMNSX]

When you install the new axel (or used one) clean the splines on the axel and splines in the hub with a small stainless wire brush. Slide the axel into the hub dry to make sure there are no burrs on any of the splines. If there are get a small triangular file and clean off the burrs. Coat both surfaces with anti-sieze before you reinstall it. If you do this you or the next owner will NEVER have a problem dis-assembling the hub/axel.

Make sure the axel seal bearing surface on the end that goes into the transmission is smooth. Apply some HONDA Urea grease to the transmission seal and axel seal bearing surface too.

Brad

 

[angus]

When the splines are stuck, I use and air hammer to seperate them.

In the past, I have had to drive cars around with the nut loose just to work the rust out.

 

[TANTO]

I wouldn't dare use rebuilt. OEM or driving ambition IMO. Rebuilt joints are notorius for using inferior materials and wearing out quickly(talking in general, not X specific). They CAN lock up and kill you, not to mention taking out the tranny housing and more.

 

[StmpoRaceProducts]

In the past, I have had to drive cars around with the nut loose just to work the rust out.

OMFG - are you serious....I read that like three times.... seriously