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Damaged front tie-down & mounting point, possible fix?

Joined
9 January 2012
Messages
78
Location
Bay Area, CA
First and foremost I apologize if this is the incorrect forum to post this & the fact that i used cell pictures.

The other day i noticed that one of my front lower tie-downs was bent. So i removed the front bumper to get a better look and figure out how to remove/replace it. To my surprise the mounting points on the frame are bent.

9DABD102-79FA-4EE0-AB28-877286E41619-822-00000116A6D6B2C3_zpsf97f7eac.jpg


Passenger (left) Drivers (right)

90CBF342-C9F9-448C-B252-FB6A5AC1130C-822-0000011680829AAF_zpsdd6b7060.jpg


Driver side mounting points

28CB2DA3-0DDF-4F60-8075-FDAE8A0FA4ED-822-00000116934F9AB7_zpsff19485c.jpg


compared to the passenger side

FC6D2AC5-2639-433D-B6C8-BAE0B4712929-822-0000011683E0CA39_zps7b9338df.jpg


Top view of passenger side (nice and straight)

728C97B6-6430-47EA-94DD-EBE5DF97D4B6-822-00000116869D7F97_zpsdcf6f2ac.jpg


top view of drivers side. Notice around the lower Two mounting points that area got pulled out a bit

BDAF3936-3E79-493C-A5BE-6F430F69DF62-822-0000011689301154_zpscc9650f6.jpg


notice how flat the passenger side is

4EE85F4A-CD0F-4DED-B36C-256B4DE04D4A-822-000001169D24AC5D_zpsca7f5952.jpg


and the driver side

FA4F550A-C891-4C0A-AD6A-EC09F3EC74B5-822-00000116A0657B52_zps484a5144.jpg


What i noticed while attempting to remove the driver side was that the tie-down moved a bit while the removal. It looks like the bracket that holds the threaded nuts inside the frame is loose, allowing it to move a bit.

Does this look repairable? without major work? Granted i am not a metal worker/fabricator it would seem that all you have to do is remove the plate at the end of the frame rail, push back in the area around the tie-down mounting points that got pulled out a bit. Straighten out the bracket inside the frame rail and re-weld it & weld the end cap on the rail back on...hopefully that makes sense.

Frame rail end that i was speaking of (has the 3 clips that hold the bumper on)

28CB2DA3-0DDF-4F60-8075-FDAE8A0FA4ED-822-00000116934F9AB7_zpsff19485c.jpg


If you look through the holes in the frame rail end you can see the bracket inside that the tie-down bolts onto.

72CB8029-4000-4C6E-9A32-3BCBD06618AD-822-00000116A9FD9EF0_zps8faa7fc5.jpg


28F3E7B9-7B68-484C-9F55-CD0F57A83E5C-822-00000116AD2C397F_zpse467aed5.jpg


I planned on getting a new driver side tie-down (or used if anyone has one for sale :wink: ) & maybe a NSX-R front lower chassis bar like this at SOS http://scienceofspeed.com/products/...Honda/NSX-R_chassis_reinforcement/default.asp so if a shop attempts to fix it they can get it as straight as possible, if that makes sense. Sorry for all the pictures, but i figured being thorough would be better.

I guess all I am looking for is reassurance that this isn't really bad or something that will be a really expensive fix.

Thanks in Advanced

-J



 
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Joe or Shawn are the resident experts, they can give you their opinion.


Bram

Thanks

If try hammering it flat and remount

I thought of that also, downside is the threaded nuts behind the rail will still be loose (some of the welds broke loose). I could just get rid off the
tie-downs completely but i hate knowing the fact that something is wrong with the car.

- - - Updated - - -

Ohh opps. I see what the issue is now...

I think i know what you were referring to originally. The reason I mentioned me purchasing the chassis brace is so the gap between both frame rails is fixed within oem specs. If i hand the shop the stmpo bar (isn't adjustable and the length is to oem specs) they can fix correctly. let say they don't "hammer" in that area all the way in then the stmpo bar wont fit because the area is to small, so they can use the bar to reference the fix.

Hopefully that makes sense, I swear in my head everything sounds logical & makes sense but once it comes out my mouth its all over the pace lol.

I appreciate the link you posted earlier, ill contact the member and see if its still up for sale.
 
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I would use a hammer and flaten it out, but then you may pop the bolt/nuts out from their spot weld.

I have seen this before in my own personal NSX and a few clients NSX. now you can still use the original tie down by bashing the shit outta it till its straight but..... I have done this and it takes some pounding but it will be straight again.

now for the frame put the bolts back into the holes screw them down about half way, then take a hammer and bash the buldge till its flat again only bash around the bolts dont bash the bolts that would be bad.

then remount the tie down and you should be good. its not going to be perfect but it will be straight again.

as for how this happens probably if the car was ever towed they cross the tie downs. so passenger side gets pulled and strapped to the drivesider on the tow truck, and the driverside gets pulled and strapped to the passengerside of the tow truck then they torque it down, then the tow truck moves and turns down the road and the weight of the car pulls and shifts etc,
thats the only thing I can think of that would cause this. as its only one side on a few NSX's I have fixed.

but hell Im a computer consultant turned NSX mech LOL so what do I really know...?
 
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