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DF NSX-R under aero parts

Joined
21 January 2005
Messages
1,756
Location
Bay Area, CA
I installed the NSX Type-R replica front bumper and battery undertrays from Downforce. The following are my impressions from my experience.

Ordering: I ordered from SOS and it was quick and painless, as has always been my experience with them.

Delivery: I ordered on a Monday afternoon and was signing for my delivery from UPS on Thursday morning. Pretty good!

Packaging: from the outside, everything seemed to be packed well and most of it was. The battery undertray, however, was not secure within the box in which it was packed. It was just kinda tumbling around in there and the result is that one of the corners was bent a little. It was nothing that would make the part unusable or less effective since I just bent it back but when you pay 350 for a piece of bent aluminum, you kinda want it to only be bent where it should be…

Installation: First off, understand that the front bumper undertray was really designed with the OEM lip in mind without consideration for compatibility with aftermarket lips. This is not a complaint or a design flaw but rather just my observation. The reason I mention it is because I have (had…) a Cantrell lip on my car and it absolutely will not work with the front bumper undertray without serious modification to one or the other. So I had to revert to my OEM. Again, this is just an installation note, not a complaint about the product. I'm actually very satisfied with the front bumper undertray.

As for installation with the OEM lip, it appeared to fit very nicely, just like how I would expect an OEM replica to fit. Of note here, however, is that my OEM bolts that hold on the lip were no longer long enough to accommodate both the OEM lip and the front bumper undertray. Upon close inspection, it appears that the fitment between the OEM lip and the undertray, while appearing to be very good, actually leaves a little gap of 2 or 2.5 mm. This added gap is enough for the bolt to no longer reach the threaded clips. So for now, until I can find a set of bolts long enough, I have a mixed up mish-mash of bolts holding it on. Others may find that they don’t need them, but the bolts I’ll need are 6mm dia, 1mm pitch, 20mm long. I believe they call this bolt out as “M6x20”. I’d like to find a bolt with a head that’s wide enough to not use them, but I’ll probably have to use washers so that the head of the bolt doesn’t damage or go through the hole of the undertray.

The battery undertray is an easy install but what I didn’t’ know and what I didn’t find mentioned when searching for reviews and installation tips for it is that almost none of the attachment points are “factory”. At the front, there are five body clips that attach the battery undertray to the front bumper undertray and 4 locations for bolts, two on each side, but other than those, it appears that you have to drill your own holes for attachment. The screws provided with the battery undertray are of the type that would also indicate that they were for drilled holes, not threaded holes. I drilled two holes that go through the OEM battery tray to hold on the center and it’s solid enough to hold it in place until I figure out what’s behind the rear holes. I want to know what I might hit before I start drilling, but also I have a feeling that drilling there will be a chore, especially while lying on my back.

Overall impressions: my installed parts look just like all the pics that have been posted on Prime so I won’t post any of those, but later, when the install is done, I’ll take a few more pics showing where I had to drill, what the screws that came with the battery undertray look like, and hopefully a picture of a couple of the holes where the longer bolts are needed (on my car, at least). It would have been nice if these bolts were included, or at least mentioned somewhere that they’d be needed. But then again, maybe it was just on my car. It just seems that if the flat area where the holes on the front bumper undertray are was maybe 3-5mm longer that it would line up better and the longer bolts would not have been needed.

My impression of the battery undertray is… well, it’s a bent piece of aluminum. I’m sure it’s an exact OEM replica of the type-R piece, but… well, it’s a bent piece of aluminum. All of the OEM holes are cut into it (not holes that are meant to attach it to anything, just random holes here and there) to give you the feeling like you’re getting something that’s based off the real thing but in my opinion they’re just adding to the cost to punch out those holes without any real benefit other than making it look OEM when really… well, it’s just a bent piece of aluminum. Oh, and affixed at either side of the battery undertray is an added aero piece that is just hoaky beyond all belief. I’m not trying to make a comparison with the following sentences, just trying to describe what I’m talking about. On the Procar battery undertray, the piece “folds down” at 90-degree angles to form a sort of “lip” that supposedly channels the air or whatever… well, DF’s solution isn’t to bend the aluminum down in a similar fashion, but to affix the afore-mentioned hoaky strips of foamy… weather stripping looking kind of stuff. It’s about as firm as… uh, weather stripping. I’m sure this will deteriorate after a while. Perhaps it’s an attempt at keeping them intact vs aluminum which, if struck by something going under the car, would damage it. But I think that if that’s a worry, then you’re way too low and have bigger issues to worry about because the suspension and frame is only about 12 or 15 mm higher. You’d have much bigger worries of something else getting damaged. The battery undertray can be duplicated custom for you for much, much less than what anyone is selling these for. The only reason nobody does is because nobody has a template from which to build.

So, that’s my feedback. Would I do it again? Yes on the front bumper undertray and no on the battery undertray. If I could do it all again I’d use cardboard and tape to mock up a model. Then I’d use very thin gauge aluminum and cutting shears and rivets to “build” one. Then I’d take my prototype to a local fabricator to have it made for me, minus all the little extra oval and square holes that would make it look OEM. Oh, and my version would also have the little bend down aluminum things on the sides.

Then I’d market them on Prime and sell it for a hundred less than my competitors and I’d make millions and retire early and have enough money to mod the crap out of my car and all the girls would want me and all the guys would want to be me and life would be good… but I digress….

Post or PM if you have any questions or for pics of anything I described above.

J
 
Next week... going to L.A. for the weekend. I'll show you this cool bent piece of aluminum I just installed!

J
 
Excellent write up!

Would be very interested in some pictures, especially of the locations where the battery undertray and bumper cover are fixed to the car.

I ordered the bumper undercover as well but have not received it yet.
As for the battery undertray, as indeed it is basically just a piece of bent aluminum as you so eloquently put it, I made my own about two years ago. Since it is just there to reduce the number of eddies and streamline the airflow and nothing else, I decided why not try it myself. I am not sure if it will mix with the DF bumper undercover but if not, I can always try to make another one.
 
Yeah it would be great if there was a price war on these. $350 for a bent piece of aluminum:rolleyes: . Question is it any lighter than the old battery tray?
 
Thanx for the detailed write up. I'm due to have a go at installing mine this weekend. You have given me some concerns and specific areas to focus on. I'm also installing a new OEM lip. Mine is a 98 so hopefully all will align ok. I think I'll make an early start just in case I need a trip to the bolt shop :smile:

The rubber strips you refer to are also replication of the OEM undertray.

regards, Paul
 
If I could do it all again I’d use cardboard and tape to mock up a model. Then I’d use very thin gauge aluminum and cutting shears and rivets to “build” one.

J

That's what I did here. Cost me about $100 in material. Since then I've added channels, which are simply small aluminum "L" stock.

Thanks for the writeup, as I'm considering the front undertray as well.
 
AFAIK, it does NOT replace the original battery tray, it is just added to it to cover up that area under the car.

Really I thought for sure it replaced it:confused:

Here's my standard tray and yes it's connected to to an OEM NSX-R black front under bumper cover ( or whatever it's called )

IMG_2201.jpg


I ask because I could just put "Fins" on the stock one and it should pretty much do the same thing w/o adding weight right?
 
That's what I did here. Cost me about $100 in material. Since then I've added channels, which are simply small aluminum "L" stock.

Thanks for the writeup, as I'm considering the front undertray as well.

Does yours "flex" at the track? I ask because I had a CF downforce under battery tray like yours and it flexed like hell at the track! It was definitely just a street/show piece.
 
Does yours "flex" at the track? I ask because I had a CF downforce under battery tray like yours and it flexed like hell at the track! It was definitely just a street/show piece.

No, I don't think it flexes at all. I have it attached pretty securely with a fastener about every six inches. It's attached directly to the battery tray, front core support, and at the rear at the firewall.

How did you determine yours flexed? Did it drag the ground somehow, like bow out at the bottom?
 
No, I don't think it flexes at all. I have it attached pretty securely with a fastener about every six inches. It's attached directly to the battery tray, front core support, and at the rear at the firewall.

How did you determine yours flexed? Did it drag the ground somehow, like bow out at the bottom?

No it would actually pop loose sometimes on one end after hard laps. There were a lot of screws in it but still one side would almost always pop loose.
 
Hmmm...it almost sound like one of the lower control arms is hitting it or something. Another possibility; I wonder if the chassis is flexing and popping it loose. Although, I find that hard to believe. I have the NSX-R chassis bars, do you have them as well? Or perhaps the fastener head is too small? I haven't seen the DF undertray so I can't speak from experience.
 
Hmmm...it almost sound like one of the lower control arms is hitting it or something. Another possibility; I wonder if the chassis is flexing and popping it loose. Although, I find that hard to believe. I have the NSX-R chassis bars, do you have them as well? Or perhaps the fastener head is too small? I haven't seen the DF undertray so I can't speak from experience.

No the NSX-R chassis brace didn't touch it but the NSX-R front sway did. NSX-R also touches the OEM battery tray though as well.
 
James makes an excellent write-up.

I would add the following. If you are using aftermarket lips (I am using the GTOneUSA) you will definitely need longer bolts to secure the lip and the undercover to the front spoiler. Also, in my view, the battery undertray seems to have been designed for pre 97 (even if its a true copy of the Type R 02) because the cut holes in the undertray do not match or have no use if installed under the 97+ battery tray. The two metal screws that hold the battery undertray to the battery tray are too long. One screw ended under the battery seat and may have gone through it too, the other was to the right of the battery exposed - I covered it with a tire stem cap to avoid accidental cuts.

Lastly, if you have used the Type R brace kit with the spacers to lower the battery tray front bolts, you will need to take those spacers out otherwise the battery undertray will bow at the center. With the Dali track way bars, this was not an issue; in fact we reduced the length of the Type R brace spacers as well and still had more than 0.25" of clearance between the Type R brace and the Dali track bar. However the Type R brace was pretty close to the 97+ battery tray edge - you will need to make that Dremel cut to the battery tray - no escaping. It would be nice if we can get confirmation or a feedback picture from our brethren across the seas if the true Type R 02 comes with a 97+, pre 97 or a totally different battery tray.

OK, now to the testing. I finally had a chance to test the undercover and battery undertray at the track yesterday. For the most part, with ambient temps in the high 80s with some wind, and OEM stock hood (not vented), I did not observe particularly higher temps though I did reach my usually highest temps in oil (260F) and water (208F) when the ambient temp are higher. As noted elsewhere, I do have an oil cooler and the OEM radiator is 50/50; no Dali Radiator shield. In the second session - before noon, I also removed the weather strip form the AC/cowl to let air escape from under the hood but not sure how much that would have helped.

On street driving/cruising, the car feels a bit lighter in the front than before - but I suspect that this is perhaps due to the lack of a vented hood (for downforce) and to the fact that I had to raise the car by 0.25" to make sure the GTOneUSA lip still cleared my driveway, and I would hopefully eliminate the fender rub at the track with the 235/40/17 Toyo RA1. Compromises ...... It sure cleared the driveway, but an additional 1/8" would have perhaps resolved the occasional rub at Infineon climbing to turn 2 or taking the carousel (turn 6). I hear Hoosiers have a slightly lower profile with their 225/40/17 though we are talking about 1 mm or less!!

Edit: The entire front seems to have less flex now, and I hear occasional minor clunking metal noise but not sure if it is still the Type R hitting the battery tray on rough road or load or something else. Next time it is on a lift, I will check for marks if any. But, I also noticed that the toe hook cover that didn't use to budge before, now can come off more easily. Make sure you glue a zip tie or something so it doesn't fall off unexpected.

YMMV.
 
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The heads up for the longer bolts was most appreciated as I bought these in advance. MOst of the front bolts lined up ok, but a couple needed a little help from the dremmel.

The alloy under tray fitted very well to the back of the front aero tray. The most diffucult was to install the side fixing points. These require drilling of the floorplan to screw into. The rears also require the floor to be drilled.

Just an idea, but for the few $$ it might cost, it would be nice to supply this front part with extended bolts as part of the kit.

Overall I'm very pleased with the install/product and the impact on stability with some recent high speed runs to 170mph on the autobarns:biggrin:

Any dissapointments .... just one .... I had agreed a deal with DF that would supply the CF version. Being a trusting person it wasn't until several weeks after delivery, and with the NSX up on ramps for the install, that I found that I had been sent the standard FRP black version. Not an easy issue to resolve given the cost of shipping (which DF had already helped with), so I'm ok with this as it does look like the 02+ OEM part. Hope this doesn't happen to anyone else.

regards,
 
Good write-up.

Since you're coming down to L.A., would you be interested in seeing the real JDM NSX-R pieces?

Man, I'd forgotten all about this thread! After a few months and several hundred miles of use, I can say that I'm pretty happy with it all. I wouldn't call it buyer's remorse, exactly, but I still think the $350 aluminum piece is a bit overpriced for what it is. I can't believe nobody's copying it yet! :wink: Time to get out my cutting shears and rivet gun :biggrin:

I would really like to see the real OEM pieces, if the offer is still good. I've been going up frequently lately (8 out of the last 11 weekends to L.A. area and another weekend in there in S.D!):eek: but I won't be down again until the first week of Aug. I'll PM you when I'm in town and see if we can't hook up. I'm already going to meet a Prime member down there and he's going to introduce me to a few members that are well known members of Prime on Aug 2 for a late lunch so maybe we can hook up then?

J
 
Curious, do you have a vented hood or OEM hood?
I'm now running with full NSX-R aero package including vented hood, rad duct, under-trays, rear spoiler and diffusor. Temp guage is constant in all conditions. Steering feel is more pronounced at high speed than before, suggesting that the whole package is working well to reduce lift. Given the GPS verified mph it doesn't seem to have created much drag either :smile:

regards, Paul
 
The heads up for the longer bolts was most appreciated as I bought these in advance. MOst of the front bolts lined up ok, but a couple needed a little help from the dremmel.

The alloy under tray fitted very well to the back of the front aero tray. The most diffucult was to install the side fixing points. These require drilling of the floorplan to screw into. The rears also require the floor to be drilled.

Just an idea, but for the few $$ it might cost, it would be nice to supply this front part with extended bolts as part of the kit.

Overall I'm very pleased with the install/product and the impact on stability with some recent high speed runs to 170mph on the autobarns:biggrin:

Any dissapointments .... just one .... I had agreed a deal with DF that would supply the CF version. Being a trusting person it wasn't until several weeks after delivery, and with the NSX up on ramps for the install, that I found that I had been sent the standard FRP black version. Not an easy issue to resolve given the cost of shipping (which DF had already helped with), so I'm ok with this as it does look like the 02+ OEM part. Hope this doesn't happen to anyone else.

regards,
Hello ,
I was wondering did we charge you for a carbon and gave you FRP ??
I want to make things right please contact me. :biggrin:
 
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