Just purchased an automatic '91 with 57K miles on it. While I've driven it little (maybe 25x), it has experienced a problem twice. On these two occasions, after going through a normal warm-up cycle and driving great... all of a sudden... very little power (like it barely goes 20 mph; seems like it starved for gas -- but not neccessarily). After pulling over and driving through a nieghborhood in about 2 or 3 minutes BINGO it's back to its old self with no reappearance (for that drive). No check engine lights. What gives? It quite sporadic (obviously) and then it is fine for subsequent drives. Any ideas? Similar problems? Questions? NOW THAT I'VE BOUGHT ONE OF THESE CARS I'M COUNTING ON ALL OF YOU GURU'S OUT THERE!!! (lol)
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Driveability/Hesitation/"No Power" Problem
- Thread starter Spencer
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Those symptoms are very similar to what would happen if traction control stepped in. My assumption would be that is waht is happening. Next time, reach up and turn the TCS switch off and the symptoms should immediately go away. Are your tire sizes stock? If not, tell us what you have. Incompatable front/back tire sizes is one of the most common causes of the TCS kicking in prematurely.
Interesting idea. Here's a few clues and clarification. It was completely dry at the time (don't know if that's an issue). Yes, the tires are completely stock specification. The 'drivability' problem did manifest itself while underway...and then continued after a complete start and stop (a few times) then after 2 or 3 minutes (including the complete stops)...'fixed' itself. Would this behavior be consistent with the TCS? (I'll obviously switch the thing off immediately if it does it again as an experiement.) Further ideas on this?
Well, I just bought the car, and to tell you the truth I don't know when these were done. I'm thinking now that I want to do the plugs air cleaner, and a fuel filter, in any case. Does it sound like the way it's acting that could be consistent with needing these done? The fuel filter maybe I could understand..as it is so sporadic (and thne get "OK")...the local dealership seems to indicate that fuel filters do usually cause a problem(?) Further comments or ideas?
IMO I doubt that is is a fuel related problem. If you were running that lean you should have tripped a check engine light. I am also pretty sure that if you were having any kind of injector failure that you would have also tripped a check engine light.
It does sound like a TCS problem to me. Maybe a short in the wire harness or loose conection.
I know this is a long shot but... since you just bought the car you might want to see if you have any check engine codes stored in your computer. Does your check engine light turn on when you first turn the key to let you know that it is working???
Either way, it is very easy to check the engine codes and you have nothing to lose.
Here is the link:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/trouble_codes.htm
It does sound like a TCS problem to me. Maybe a short in the wire harness or loose conection.
I know this is a long shot but... since you just bought the car you might want to see if you have any check engine codes stored in your computer. Does your check engine light turn on when you first turn the key to let you know that it is working???
Either way, it is very easy to check the engine codes and you have nothing to lose.
Here is the link:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/trouble_codes.htm
Well, the TCS is something that as a novice owner I guess I wouldn't have thought about. So if it kicks in (for no apparent reason..relatively smooth surface) it would manifest itself as like the car having no power? Would it typically stay "on" for a minute or two through several cycles of bringing the car to a stop...and then starting out again?
in this part of the world, we drive under heavy or lite rain most of the year. TCS would hardly activate unless, say , you are coming up the car park and run over the metal crating where there is moisture, the lite would come on and lose power for a few seconds, then, all is normal. if you drive on wet road, unless you drive over the white markings and accelerate hard, nothing happen..
IMO, a fuel problem, clog injectors could be one. do you use hi-octane gas..or premium where-ever you are.
IMO, a fuel problem, clog injectors could be one. do you use hi-octane gas..or premium where-ever you are.
No, TCS would not normally have the characteristics you describe. (The power reduction is only momentary - to eliminate wheelspin, etc.) However, we are clearly dealing with some kind of malfunction so that's why I'm trying to eliminate the TCS as the culprit.
TheSwishh is making a very good suggestion. Check for any stored error codes... and let us know if any are found.
Based on the fact the problem persists through a stop/start sequence, I'm thinking there's more of a chance it could be an O2 sensor. Most (but NOT all) malfunctioning O2 sensors will trigger a fault code (check engine light) right away.
Just to be thorough, test that your "Check Engine" light briefly illuminates at the ignition on sequence just before starting. (Let's just make sure your don't have a burned out or tampered with bulb. Highly unlikely, but let's be safe.)
TheSwishh is making a very good suggestion. Check for any stored error codes... and let us know if any are found.
Based on the fact the problem persists through a stop/start sequence, I'm thinking there's more of a chance it could be an O2 sensor. Most (but NOT all) malfunctioning O2 sensors will trigger a fault code (check engine light) right away.
Just to be thorough, test that your "Check Engine" light briefly illuminates at the ignition on sequence just before starting. (Let's just make sure your don't have a burned out or tampered with bulb. Highly unlikely, but let's be safe.)
Okay. So I've done the code retrieval process: 1) check engine light does work; 2)When I jump the service check connector, the check engine light DOES blink. It blinks 1 long blink followed by 2 short blinks. So what does this mean? (And where do I find the error code cross references? I've look in the 1000+ manual...and I don't see it...)
The diagnostic procedures for the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, also known as the check engine light) are in the service manual in the Fuel section. Don't ask me why it's in the Fuel section, but that's where it is. If you're using the '91 service manual (which is the one in the FAQ here), it tells how to read the codes on page 11-18 (page 194 of 1379 of the pdf file), and two pages later it tells what each code is and what to do next.
Okay...so in looking at the diagnosis codes, it appears that the sequence of lights (#12) indicates an 'EGR Control System' malfunction. Further, under that problem it indicates that it's in the '3rd place' position as potentially causing: 1) misfire or rough running, 2) frequent stalling after warming up and/or 3)rough idle. SoundS like this could be the culprit. ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH A BAD EGR ON AN NSX (OR OTHERCAR) WHO CAN SPECULATE ON THIS?
A malfuntioning EGR valve would be consistent with all of the symptoms you've described. If it opens too much at low rpms, you could have more recirculated gases in the combustion chamber than desired - resulting in a loss of power. The EGR is instructed to open by the ECU and there is also a position feedback sensor so that the ECU can validate the opening is where it wants it to be. Out of tolerance, and it trips a fault code.
The EGR is relatively easy to remove and clean if you are so inclined, otherwise you may want to take it somewhere you trust to do a removal/inspection for you.
The EGR is relatively easy to remove and clean if you are so inclined, otherwise you may want to take it somewhere you trust to do a removal/inspection for you.
Thanks for the recommendations. I guess that I'll be starting with the EGR valve. It sounds like it's the most logical. THANKS AGAIN to all who wrote. I will keep you all posted. Any other ideas...please feel free to let me know.
my check engine came on several times today but I feel no loss in power or hesitation..i stopped and restarted thrice and the lite came on when i pushed the rev. up , no limp home mode came on. Any clues?? I don't think it is the ERG, mine X is under 30k and also a 91.
I'm not the guy to ask, pacacu. I'm too much of a novice, but have you checked to see if any engine codes are evident? That probably the best place to start. I would make your own post and see what everyone's ideas are.
Update: Problem Solved!
The dealer replaced the coil packs (all 6)and the car drives fine. I'm getting the impression that this problem is a little more common than we might think. Anyone with a sputtering/hesitation (particularly as the car warms up) would do well to look into this. Here is another citation of the same driveability issue caused by the coils:
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001796.html
The dealer replaced the coil packs (all 6)and the car drives fine. I'm getting the impression that this problem is a little more common than we might think. Anyone with a sputtering/hesitation (particularly as the car warms up) would do well to look into this. Here is another citation of the same driveability issue caused by the coils:
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001796.html
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