Unfortunately, the time is here for a R+R of my engine. #5 has lost compression and the reason is not yet known. This has come at a bad time and to save money I am looking into pulling the engine myself. GJ will take it from there. Anyone who has done this I would appreciate info. Thanks, Dan
-
Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.
Engine pull (how to)
- Thread starter tunapie
- Start date
The service manual procedure is not hard to follow the main problem for the DIY person is the amount of equipment needed. The engine comes out the bottom so you need a boom type engine hoist to hold up the engine while the last bolts are removed, a rolling platform to drop the engine on and a hoist for the car so it can be raised so the engine on the platform can be rolled out.
The head can be removed w/o dropping the engine, which may be an option if you think the damage is limited to the front head only. Follow the head removal procedure in the Service manual. The disadvantage with removing the head(s) from the top is that working space is limited which makes for more difficult work.
.02
DanO
.02
DanO
DanO said:
Actually, I've done the rear head in the car as well. But in this case it is likely a bad piston and I think Dan's intention is to replace the set with forged ones to avoid a repeat, so the engine needs to come out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2472389197&category=33620
This may or may not help you but I figured it may be helpful if you are pulling the engine??
This may or may not help you but I figured it may be helpful if you are pulling the engine??
sjs said:
Yes, i've done the rear too.
I wonder if his intention is still DIY engine removal, if it would be easier to remove both heads from the top and then drop the engine. What would be the min car height?
DanO
Ive got one in the garage I'll measure again. Last time this came up I think I estimated that you would need ~18" of lift from stock height plus the height of whatever it sets on to be slid out from under. As I recall, someone later confirmed that during an actual removal.
You would need to raise the car 2 and 1/2 feet.
Another words, don't do it. I have pulled my motor 2 times,
and each time it was on a lift. I would never even consider doing it on the ground. You will be getting yourself into more trouble than you are ready for. Also, I don't even know if it is possible without taking the motor apart on the ground in the engine space after you drop it.
Please save yourself now and go pay for it at a trusted shop.
Another words, don't do it. I have pulled my motor 2 times,
and each time it was on a lift. I would never even consider doing it on the ground. You will be getting yourself into more trouble than you are ready for. Also, I don't even know if it is possible without taking the motor apart on the ground in the engine space after you drop it.
Please save yourself now and go pay for it at a trusted shop.
Let us know how much it costs to fix the car after it falls off the jack stands. Hopefully it won't fall on you. Your nuts trying to pick up the body without a lift.
Turbo NSX said:
Damn skippy Turbo NSX
C'mon guys, it's not as crazy as all that.
I'm confident that it takes less than 2 1/2 feet. The top of the alternator to the bottom of the pan is about that but since it starts well off the ground to begin with you certainly don't need to raise it that much. Pulling the alternator and pan first drops the vertical height to about 20 inches, which means that if your car as even 4 inches of ground clearance you could get it out on a slim skid by jacking it up less than two feet. Since it comes out the side you may not really need to pull the alternator because it should pass through wheel arch. You may even be able to drop it, then rotate it 90 degrees to face longitudinally and pass the valve covers through the wheel arch, requiring even less left. (sill need to clear the frame of course.)
Yes it would be tricky and I'm not necessarily advocating it, but I'm sure it can be done with good jack stands and solid blocks under them.
I'm confident that it takes less than 2 1/2 feet. The top of the alternator to the bottom of the pan is about that but since it starts well off the ground to begin with you certainly don't need to raise it that much. Pulling the alternator and pan first drops the vertical height to about 20 inches, which means that if your car as even 4 inches of ground clearance you could get it out on a slim skid by jacking it up less than two feet. Since it comes out the side you may not really need to pull the alternator because it should pass through wheel arch. You may even be able to drop it, then rotate it 90 degrees to face longitudinally and pass the valve covers through the wheel arch, requiring even less left. (sill need to clear the frame of course.)
Yes it would be tricky and I'm not necessarily advocating it, but I'm sure it can be done with good jack stands and solid blocks under them.
Thanks SJS for bringing this back to the real world.
One option not mentioned here, and could be very dangerous if safety measures not taken, is to use an appropriately sized electric winch attached to something above with the capability of holding the weight, i.e. a steel cross member as many open basement homes have, or the span across a garage door.
By removing the hatch, rear wheels, or even the rear suspension, and not having the engine in the car, then you are "probably" only lifting 1200+/- lbs, and only for a short period of time. So a doubled line winch that can handle a true pull of 1000 to 1500 lbs should lift the car the extra foot and a half you would need over jack and jackstands. Just a thought. (I have seen the setup, but do not know the particulars)
One option not mentioned here, and could be very dangerous if safety measures not taken, is to use an appropriately sized electric winch attached to something above with the capability of holding the weight, i.e. a steel cross member as many open basement homes have, or the span across a garage door.
By removing the hatch, rear wheels, or even the rear suspension, and not having the engine in the car, then you are "probably" only lifting 1200+/- lbs, and only for a short period of time. So a doubled line winch that can handle a true pull of 1000 to 1500 lbs should lift the car the extra foot and a half you would need over jack and jackstands. Just a thought. (I have seen the setup, but do not know the particulars)
As far as jack stands go, you could go get a set of stands that are made for heavy duty trucks/ semi's etc. I would think you could find these at any diesel shop/truck parts store.
If you plan on taking off the oil pan for more clearance, you will need to take the oil pick up as well(I'm sure you know this... but better safe than sorry).
Rotating the motor when under the car is going to be tough.
Assuming you are doing this in your garage... how do you plan on lowering the motor out? I do not think the standard boom type engine hoist will work. The body heght may be too high. When lowering, the boom may hit the fender. Depending on your rafters, you may be abel to use a chain/pulley hoist.
Over all its probably doable... just going to take a little $ and imagination to do it safe. Good luck
If you plan on taking off the oil pan for more clearance, you will need to take the oil pick up as well(I'm sure you know this... but better safe than sorry).
Rotating the motor when under the car is going to be tough.
Assuming you are doing this in your garage... how do you plan on lowering the motor out? I do not think the standard boom type engine hoist will work. The body heght may be too high. When lowering, the boom may hit the fender. Depending on your rafters, you may be abel to use a chain/pulley hoist.
Over all its probably doable... just going to take a little $ and imagination to do it safe. Good luck
What state are you in?
I am sure if you search around, you may be able to find someone local that will allow you to use a lift for a little cash/beer etc.
You could always flatbed your car home after the lift use, and repeat the process when ready for the install. It may cost you a few cases of beer, but It will make the job so much easier.
There are many private lift owners out there....more than you think, and a lot of them are gearheads, and will offer help for free.
I am sure if you search around, you may be able to find someone local that will allow you to use a lift for a little cash/beer etc.
You could always flatbed your car home after the lift use, and repeat the process when ready for the install. It may cost you a few cases of beer, but It will make the job so much easier.
There are many private lift owners out there....more than you think, and a lot of them are gearheads, and will offer help for free.
Dan, is it really worth the trouble to save $550.00 on R&R-ing the motor?
I'm interested to see how this will get done. I know realtime did engine swap at the track. And those guys don't bring lift/rack around.
How long is it taking people to drop motors here? Assuming you have the right equipment of course. A few hours?
You could feasibly drop a motor with one person and a lift in about 3 hours if you know what you are doing. If not then like four or five. And that is if you are working, not lolly gaggin around.
Similar threads
