EPS solution ?

Joined
9 June 2012
Messages
25
Location
Newfoundland
This may help other owners that are having EPS problems.
My 1996 started to give trouble a few months ago. I found that when taking it out of my garage the EPS would quit and the dash light would come on. I could get it back by removing the clock fuse and restarting the car.

I realized that since I had to make a couple of sharp turns to and fro to get out of the garage, the revs would drop low while doing this and began to wonder if my battery was putting out enough power when the alternator wasn't supplying the juice. I had the battery checked and sure enough it wasn't real good.

I replaced the battery and haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps anyone else with EPS problems.
 
I'll keep an eye on my revs on right turns like that. I've been resetting my EPS light my the fuse, actually just the second time today. Made it a couple hundred miles and lost it again, light pops on and zero power steering.

Is any damage done by driving these cars with no EPS working ? I'd think it's ok based on what I've read, but unsure.
 
no damage
 
I may of spoke too soon.
The last couple of times that I used the car the problem seems to have returned.
When I take the car out of the garage ( which involves a couple of sharp 90 deg turns ) the EPS light comes on again.
If I take out the clock fuse and replace it the EPS is re-activated.
I still think its related to low revs and therefor low voltage during these turns.
Anyone have a fix?
 
My eps light went on last year for the first time in my 96......I needed a new module.
 
I had this happen in the past and because the unit is voltage regulated, i install an additional thick ground wire from the battery to the firewall...

No EPS problem since (been 3 years).. let us know if this works for you.

 
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EPS is PWM control and the amount of power assist is controlled by the target current value.
Inside the EPS controller, there is a current sensing circuit and if the amount of measured current doesn't stay within the specified window from the targeted current figure, it will trigger the EPS warning light.
Therefore, if you have poor charging system (ACG), bad battery health, poor battery terminal connection, burnt relay contacts inside the EPS controller, etc, you will get the EPS warning light.

From time to time, I saw rust at the connectors on the EPS controller (from the condensation, I guess) so you may want to check the condition of terminals inside both the controller and the chassis loom.

For example, this famous failed terminal caused by the moisture corrosion can be seen at the big 20pin grey connector inside the boot/trunk that could trigger ABS/TCS lights (RR wheel speed sensor), 'BARKE LAMP' warning indicator, different brightness of the tail ight bulbs, etc. Same thing happens at the 3pin connector of the lock/unlock switch at the door.
All could have been prevented if only Honda used water proof connector but you can apply dielectric silicone grease as a prevention.
Standard procedure for me whenever I open the door card or boot carpet for the owners.



I always recommend reading the error code before pulling the fuse to reset the EPS controller.



If you have EPS controller ver.-023, -033, -305 or even -043, you could trigger the EPS warning light depending on how often and how long you were using the EPS assist.
It is caused by the lack of relay capacity and thus, the more you use the EPS, the more you are likely to trigger the EPS warning light.
Ver.-023 that were used on 95-96 models are very likely to trigger the EPS light sooner or later as it was using the old spec control software with old circuit design + both internal relays at standard capacity and not the high current capacity one.
It just burns out the relay contact causing increase of resistance and reducing the current passing through the system.
Under this condition, it will trigger EPS error code #22.

Examples here; http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=47


The other failure mode that can trigger the EPS warning light quite often is the failed torque sensor. Another reason why you should read the error code first before resetting it.
Also, if your EPS rack boot has teared, please fix it immediately. There were many EPS rack failures due to water getting inside the rack through the splitted boot resulting in rusty commutator.


Kaz
 
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Per Kaz's comment about the 22 code, Once the EPS light returns get the code. that will help tell the story.
 
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