I have a Pro-car rear spoiler and RWG in carbon fiber, that both seem to be fading. I don't think they were clear coated from Procar. Any recommendations into getting it like new again?
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faded carbon
- Thread starter RAVN NSX
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Just spray a fresh clear coating over it. Let me know if you need a bodyshop.
Ken
Ken
For the amount of money you spend on Pro Car parts, they should have alaready been sprayed I would think.
Yeah a buddy's S2000 of mine hood was fading. After shooting a nice clean clear coat on, it looked good as new:wink:
Yeah a buddy's S2000 of mine hood was fading. After shooting a nice clean clear coat on, it looked good as new:wink:
Epoxy resin doesn't have the UV resistance that a good automative clear coat does. Have a body shop shoot it with a high UV protected clear coat. I had mine sprayed with the "glamour clear" from Dupont. It looks amazing.
sugoi said:
Ken,
any idea how much for clear coating a CF hood? i want to get mine done.
sugoi said:
Really, that's it?
My winter maintenaince routine for CFRP or dry carbon is to simply lightly sand the parts down with 1000 grit, wipe it down with spirits, then spray it with a good automotive clear top coat which offers better UV protection anyway. It gives it more depth and looks like new.
If you have air tools, simply stop off at a local auto body supply store and they will have everything you need.
If you have air tools, simply stop off at a local auto body supply store and they will have everything you need.
Randomharmony:
I will find out tomorrow and PM you. Any bodyshop can do it but just how much............
Ken
I will find out tomorrow and PM you. Any bodyshop can do it but just how much............
Ken
RAVN NSX said:Really, that's it?
Ask for another car while you're at it!:biggrin:
I am a bit suprised that there isn't a UV resistant gel coat on the parts already.
I agree with the rest of the suggestions: apply a coat of UV resistant clear coat and it should be fine. Not sure if you have to do it every year though...
Going to clearcoat any carbon parts before I install them on my car....
--
George
I agree with the rest of the suggestions: apply a coat of UV resistant clear coat and it should be fine. Not sure if you have to do it every year though...
Going to clearcoat any carbon parts before I install them on my car....
--
George
John@Microsoft said:
when you use spray can, is it the result come out pretty good? i have my R wing clear coated by the body shop, and it look pretty nice. once done, do i need to do it again in the future?
randomharmony said:
I definitely wouldn't reccomend using clear coat out of a spray can on a CFRP or dry carbon piece you care about- you'll never get an even coat out of a nozzle on a can. The result would be very visible ripples under direct sunlight... and frankly I'd reccomend using a better quality product anyway. I use a gravity feed myself.
You probably won't need to tell the painter this, but when sanding gelcoat or clear gelcoat (in the case of carbon fiber parts) you will need to scuff the part with 400 grit and then work your way up to 800 grit. Gelcoats have a higher hardness in the material in which 1000 grit would not do enough cutting. If you are scuffing clearcoat paint existing on the carbon fiber part then 1000 grit would work great. Clearcoating is cheaper then to painting it, so make sure the bodyshop doesn't try to milk more money out of you.
Out of complete coincidence, I was actually fixing some CFRP today, thought of this thread and
took some pics (attached) to help other DIY'rs. The only requirement of course is that you have a
half decent air compressor, and the part your touching up is carbon fiber reinforced plastic (not
pre-peg dry carbon or the like).
CFRP Hood faded from that intense California heat? Diffuser looking a little shoddy due to faster
drivers nudging it at speed? Canards seen one too many parking curbs at starbucks? Well, read
on...
Ok, first step if you want to have that hood or CFRP part looking like new, you'll need to warm up
the wallet some morning and pick up some quick NSX fix-it supplies around town.
As you can see below, in my instance today I splurged a little more than most for the good stuff,
but if you were just doing a hood, you could of course do it for a lot less... in my instance I just
have a little more on my plate at the moment so ya know drop a few c notes, you can never be
too prepared, and it is an NSX after all.
But for those on the up-most DIY budget, if you really wanted to cheap it out like the civic guys,
hell you could even go for that nice Central Pneumatic gravity feed on sale at Harbor freight for
$13.95, $10 in sand paper, and some super cheap auto clear for about $75 for the reducer, clear,
and hardner at your local autobody store and be out the door for $100 even. Their are no
replacement parts for them, but for as cheap as they are you can always just throw it out and it
would serve the purpose if that's all you'll ever do.
Next step, remove the parts- and wipe them down with alcohol, turpentine or whatever solvent is
your preference. Feel the surface for imperfections, and make a practical decision where to start
on the surface. If it's mostly a nice finished piece and simply has some minor surface scratches
then 1000 grit wet is usually where I start. On the other hand, I've caught significant scrapes in
canards and had to start as low as 220 grit or below dry (example below).
Start sanding, since that's what body work is all about. Using your palm, make sure your sanding
smooth, and working all the way up the contour in the case of a part like an NSX hood. If the
sand paper requires too much effort, add a little warm water. What will appear to be a mild milky
substance will begin to form which is the clear coat or resin of course coming off. Make sure to be
even, smooth, and as uniform as possible you do not want to groove the surface by being to
aggressive in manner or grit (see below).
Wet sanding a Kawagen Hood:
Dry sanding a very abused canard that has seen the very inaccessible gas station near portland a
little too often:
Tommorow... I am shooting some parts so the exciting conclusion of 'Fixing Faded CFRP parts Part II' :wink:
took some pics (attached) to help other DIY'rs. The only requirement of course is that you have a
half decent air compressor, and the part your touching up is carbon fiber reinforced plastic (not
pre-peg dry carbon or the like).
CFRP Hood faded from that intense California heat? Diffuser looking a little shoddy due to faster
drivers nudging it at speed? Canards seen one too many parking curbs at starbucks? Well, read
on...
Ok, first step if you want to have that hood or CFRP part looking like new, you'll need to warm up
the wallet some morning and pick up some quick NSX fix-it supplies around town.
As you can see below, in my instance today I splurged a little more than most for the good stuff,
but if you were just doing a hood, you could of course do it for a lot less... in my instance I just
have a little more on my plate at the moment so ya know drop a few c notes, you can never be
too prepared, and it is an NSX after all.
But for those on the up-most DIY budget, if you really wanted to cheap it out like the civic guys,
hell you could even go for that nice Central Pneumatic gravity feed on sale at Harbor freight for
$13.95, $10 in sand paper, and some super cheap auto clear for about $75 for the reducer, clear,
and hardner at your local autobody store and be out the door for $100 even. Their are no
replacement parts for them, but for as cheap as they are you can always just throw it out and it
would serve the purpose if that's all you'll ever do.
Next step, remove the parts- and wipe them down with alcohol, turpentine or whatever solvent is
your preference. Feel the surface for imperfections, and make a practical decision where to start
on the surface. If it's mostly a nice finished piece and simply has some minor surface scratches
then 1000 grit wet is usually where I start. On the other hand, I've caught significant scrapes in
canards and had to start as low as 220 grit or below dry (example below).
Start sanding, since that's what body work is all about. Using your palm, make sure your sanding
smooth, and working all the way up the contour in the case of a part like an NSX hood. If the
sand paper requires too much effort, add a little warm water. What will appear to be a mild milky
substance will begin to form which is the clear coat or resin of course coming off. Make sure to be
even, smooth, and as uniform as possible you do not want to groove the surface by being to
aggressive in manner or grit (see below).
Wet sanding a Kawagen Hood:
Dry sanding a very abused canard that has seen the very inaccessible gas station near portland a
little too often:
Tommorow... I am shooting some parts so the exciting conclusion of 'Fixing Faded CFRP parts Part II' :wink:
Last edited:
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