• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Floor Jack and Jack Stands...

Ella'sDaddy

Ella'sDaddy

Contributing Member
Joined
11 March 2009
Messages
175
Location
San Diego
Hey everyone,

I have been searching on Prime for the past week on recommendations for floor jack and jack stand. However, the earliest thread I found on this subject was 2007. Does everyone have any NEW recommendations or is there a product that has came out recently that someone recommend...

I am looking for a floor jack and some jack stands...

Warmest regards,

p.s. Please...no flames, I honestly did my best to search on Prime already...
 
Any jack stands will do, I ordered the 3 ton one from harborfreight.com last week for less than $12 i think. As for a jack just get any low profile jack, you can find those for cheap on harbor freight too.
 
I would not recommend the 3 ton Aluminum Blue Racing floor jack. In my opinion it does not raise up high enough. Other than that, any other low clearance jack from Harbor Freight Tools should work fine. As for jackstands, the $12 jack stand Special going on now for Harbor Freight is a fantastic deal. I have 2 sets so far and they do me fine.
 
I am on year 8 with my 2 ton low profile jack from griots no issues.The only downside is it is heavy.
 
Costco offers a nice low-pro floor jack in their stores for $99.
I'm lowered so I have the additional step of driving up onto 2X4's to get the side up high enough for the low-pro to fit under. Then all good.
They have some stands too, stands are stands to me.
 
Last edited:
I have a related question. LarryB has some nice black rubber blocks he had made for use on his lift. What is great about them is that the protect the sills and jack point tabs from the metal lift. I'd like to get a set for use on my jack stands, but can't find them anywhere. The closest I found was a post on a 350Z forum where somebody used hockey pucks and a table saw to make rubber blocks with a groove cut in the middle to take up the jack point tab on the frame. Has anyone tried this? I think it would work...
 
Just don't go too cheap on the stands. I had steel ones that would bend the ears if the car rested on them. I went to cast stands and they work much better.
 
Honcho said:
I have a related question. LarryB has some nice black rubber blocks he had made for use on his lift. What is great about them is that the protect the sills and jack point tabs from the metal lift. I'd like to get a set for use on my jack stands, but can't find them anywhere. The closest I found was a post on a 350Z forum where somebody used hockey pucks and a table saw to make rubber blocks with a groove cut in the middle to take up the jack point tab on the frame. Has anyone tried this? I think it would work...
Click to expand...

Instead of rubber blocks, I made some from scraps of 2x4 lumber. I cut groves down the middle and cut the corners so they are semi round to fit in the jack's lift point since it is slightly concave. I have a Sears AL low profile jack.
Tom
 
Some of this is basic math. Measure the distance from the jacking tabs to the floor, and you'll need that (or less) as the minimum lifting height for your jack. If you're going to use blocks on the jack, take their width into account. You'll also need a jack whose maximum lifting height is enough to put the car on your jacking stands.

If you plan to use your jack ONLY in one place (like your garage), its weight is not a consideration. If you plan to move it (such as taking it to the track), get a lightweight jack. A larger jack (wider/longer) gives the jack more stability (which may be especially useful if you ever need to use it on irregular surfaces such as gravel) but makes it heavier.

If you work on your car a lot, you may want to get a higher-quality, more expensive jack; otherwise, a less expensive jack may be sufficient.

For rubber blocks, I've used rubber sanding blocks that I've bought in the paint department of my local hardware store. But I often just use a shop rag to prevent scratching of the jacking tabs.

HTH
 
The material is a little tough to find, but the old gym mats that were 1/2 thick and very hard are what i use. I just cut a bunch of squares about 5" by 5" and put them atop the stands. I'm using that method for other cars now as it gives you an excellent "weld" between the jack and the cars members. Like Doc i also have the big heavy Griots stands and an early version of their jack. If you are one that still prefers steel, it's probably the best jack i've ever used. The let down method is superior and it has a roller on the bottom to help you move it sideways. It is heavy though. Call me a worry wart if you like, but i'm not putting the X up on harbor freight anything. You can just tell by looking at some of these alum jacks that the bars that raise the pad are not that beefy. Just bought a MaxJax though and don't have much of a need for a jack now. Check out the MaxJax.
 
TANTO said:
Call me a worry wart if you like, but i'm not putting the X up on harbor freight anything. You can just tell by looking at some of these alum jacks that the bars that raise the pad are not that beefy. Just bought a MaxJax though and don't have much of a need for a jack now. Check out the MaxJax.
Click to expand...

I agree the least expensive HF aluminum jacks are a little flimsy and can want to tilt sideways. Also, the front roller seems to get stuck so you end up dragging the front rather than rolling. The more expensive aluminum versions are fine.

I was in the HF store today checking out their low profile steel 2-ton jack. It's got the lowest saddle height and the highest lifting range. I think even the lowered guys could get it under their car without the wood planks. It has the quick lift foot pedal and is plenty wide so it's very stable. Only downside is that it weighs a lot at 102 lbs.
 
I've used a lightweight Harbor Freight jack for years, taking them to and from the racetrack, so I could swap to the track tires that I bring along with me in the car, and for the occasional brake pad swap. It's great! And the light weight and compact size makes it easy to pick up, and to pack inside the passenger footwell of the NSX. It's not what I would choose for more extensive work at home in the garage, but for bringing to the track to lift up a side of the NSX to swap tires, it's perfect.

Get the jack that's best for how you plan to use it.
 
I just bought a new jack at Harbor Freight. It is a 2 ton low jack with a 2" clearance all the way back to the neck, AND it has rapid pump. Verdict? It is Fing awesaome. It is not aluminum, but it doesn't need to be. I can get it all the way to the front cross beam on my S2000 without blockint the car - that is impossible with any other jack I have seen in my life.

Honestly, I was laughing hysterically while jacking up my S2000 as I never thought it could be so simple! It is simply that superb.
 
NSX-Files said:
I agree the least expensive HF aluminum jacks are a little flimsy and can want to tilt sideways. Also, the front roller seems to get stuck so you end up dragging the front rather than rolling. The more expensive aluminum versions are fine.

I was in the HF store today checking out their low profile steel 2-ton jack. It's got the lowest saddle height and the highest lifting range. I think even the lowered guys could get it under their car without the wood planks. It has the quick lift foot pedal and is plenty wide so it's very stable. Only downside is that it weighs a lot at 102 lbs.
Click to expand...

And you didn't get it for me????
 
I think floor jacks have been fairly well covered. The only thing I'd like to add would to be cautious of the jack stands with round bases. From experience, they can be unstable and tip over should anyone bump into the car while on stands and I'd hate to have that happen.
 
I have the HF steel low profile jack and it has at least 1" of clearance fitting under my car. I don't know why everyone is obsessed with the aluminum ones.. are you guys carrying them around with you? :wink: The steel one is heavy, but it is solid as hell and works great.
 
For home use, I went with a AC Hydraulic jack and Esco jackstands: they're a nice bit of kit.

If I was going to the track, I'd find some aluminum jack mentioned previously in this thread.
 
got my 3 tons stands at PepBoys for 9.99 for 2 but if I paid another 5 dollars I got 2 more so total 4 3-ton jack stands for 15 bucks.

that was years ago.

the floor jack I have had the same one for about 6 years and its still going strong I paid 79 bucks at Discount Auto Parts also known now as Autozone.

but since I lowered my car my trusty floorjack needs help from my OEM jack to raise it 1 inch to clear then she is good.

my car is like 2 inch off the ground let me tell you about how many front lip spoilers I have had to buy since this cool upgrade. LOL thinking about leaving the lower lip OFF
 

Similar threads

M
Up on Jackstands this week - things to inspect while she's in the air?
Replies
3
Views
396
MikeNSX92
M
M
Optimal size tires for 17X8 and 18x10 wheels?
Replies
20
Views
4K
Nogiboi
Nogiboi
Lude_2_NSX
Engine Mount Install with Pictures
Replies
24
Views
7K
BBVNSX
BBVNSX
VANSXTC
  • Sticky
Thoughts from a 20+ year NSX Owner to new NSX Owners (and maybe some not so new)
2
Replies
43
Views
22K
C2 Turbo
C2 Turbo
stuntman
  • Sticky
How to size and select tires for PERFORMANCE - MotoIQ
Replies
2
Views
6K
Honcho
Honcho
Back
Top