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Garage Floor Treatments: Advice/Suggestions Needed !!!

Joined
5 March 2004
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46
I'm in the process of gutting my garage, installing a two-post lift, and redoing it with quality storage/workbenches made for shop-use and with plenty of space for my tools, decent lighting, and lots of electrical outlets.

I want to treat the floor, as it's unsealed concrete, looks crappy, and isn't terribly comfortable to stand or work on. I'd also like it to look as clean/well done as the rest of the garage once I'm done.

I've thought of doing a two-step epoxy floor sealant, but several folks have recommended I consider a floor tile instead. The argument is that it's a lot less work to install, doesn't create noxious fumes during the installation, isn't vulnerable to failing (and I'd hate to spend a lot of time and money on something only to have to redo it in two years), and it looks great/functions well.

Does anyone want to weigh in on the decision? Has anyone direct experience with either approach -- epoxy treatments or garage-appropriate tiling? Does anyone have direct experience with Race Deck Garage Tiles? I've seen a few references on the web to the product, and it seems to get good reviews.

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

Best,
CB
 
I was in your shoes last summer. I decide to spend the extra money and go with Racedeck. It cost me about $1500 to do the floor of the 22 X 22 garage addition I built. Spendy? Yes.... Worth it? Definately. It looks great and you can do your own design. So far my tiles have stood up to oil, brake fluid and tire marks....just a bucket and mop and it looks as good as new. They've withstood the weight of jack stand with no marks. The plastic is very durable.

Assembly was very easy and it's something I can take with me if I ever move (you can easily add more tiles or change the design)

The epoxys look nice too, but I was worried with cracks and I've heard a few stories about it flaking after a couple years. I didn't want to have to redue it either.

I did seal the concrete before I put down the racedeck....I've heard that's always a good idea.

Anyway good luck.
 

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This is helpful. Thanks! Any thoughts/comments on the merits of solid versus perforated tiles? The more comments/reactions I get on this, the more it seems to me that the choice boils down to (i) epoxy sealing (cheap but perhaps a risk of failure) or (ii) tiles (expensive but easy)...

PS: forgot to add, but I like your shop setup. I just ordered a much of the Craftsman cabinets for my garage... :smile:
 
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whiteNSXs said:
So God created Brooke....... :cool:
Steve

No garage is complete with out her :biggrin: I told my wife I would cover the walls with car pictures but I needed one "hot chick" poster. She said "ok", the next day...Brooke came into our lives.....
 
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I had my garage floor done last yr. by a company that does Firestations floors which is just awesome. My brother is a fireman and sometimes in the winter we take our cars to the station and wash them there and I always admired the floor where you can just squeegie it off. It was a 5 day process where they blast the concrete with a metal shot and rough it up, then 3 coats of epxoy filler, then colored flake, and then the color following by a final shiny coat. No hot tire lifting of this stuff as it is commercial grade stuff. It is simply awesome and really easy to keep clean. :smile:
 
ekin95 said:
I had my garage floor done last yr. by a company that does Firestations floors which is just awesome. My brother is a fireman and sometimes in the winter we take our cars to the station and wash them there and I always admired the floor where you can just squeegie it off. It was a 5 day process where they blast the concrete with a metal shot and rough it up, then 3 coats of epxoy filler, then colored flake, and then the color following by a final shiny coat. No hot tire lifting of this stuff as it is commercial grade stuff. It is simply awesome and really easy to keep clean. :smile:

Do you have any pictures of that? Sounds like it would be a good idea....but what about cost? Did you get a discount being your brother is a fireman?
 
I'm coming to the conclusion that tiles are (i) less expensive than having epoxy professional done but (ii) cheaper if you're willing to live with the risk that the do-it-yourself fails after a year or two as a result of moisture or other installation-related problems. Now, the questions are (i) whether the RaceDeck-clones (like those from CostCo) are truly comparable (might save some bucks by it) and (ii) whether to mix-and-match styles -- for example, installing the free-flow tiles near the door to the back yard (where we always drag in dirt) and, perhaps, under the car (where the tires bring in debris) and the diamond-style in the shop area and walking areas. Then, of course, there's the question of whether I can stomach dropping $1500 for a floor for purely aesthetic reasons. It's not as if my current concrete floor doesn't serve me just fine as, well, a floor....

Any advice/suggestions -- and my apologies for engaging in this discussion on two threads, but I had not stubmled over the thread in the General NSX forum until CDX_NSX pointed it out to me.

Best,
Christopher
 
newby said:
Do you have any pictures of that? Sounds like it would be a good idea....but what about cost? Did you get a discount being your brother is a fireman?

Here is a pic of how shiny and clean it is. Too dirty right now b/c of winter but just pur some soapy water on it and hose it down. I think it was $1700. No discount here but it was worth every penny.

nsxingarage.jpg
 
EKIN95..... I like that...looks really sharp.

My only worry with that set up is here in MN the odds of concrete not cracking during winter frost heaving, is about the same odds that Michael Jackson will serve prison time (slim to none)...

$1700 is a pretty good price for commerical grade floor covering....

CBENDER.....

Come on my friend.... if you'll spend $1500 for new carpeting in the living room, why not the garage :smile: :smile:
 
I hear you, Newby, but the same logic's led me already to spend a couple grand to have a two-post lift installed, $1200 to raise the track of the garage door, a couple more grand on cabinetry, workbenches, new toolboxes, and some new tools, and I've yet to get buying lighting. At some point -- like with mods to the track toy -- it goes from an indulgence to nutso!
 
Cbender said:
I hear you, Newby, but the same logic's led me already to spend a couple grand to have a two-post lift installed, $1200 to raise the track of the garage door, a couple more grand on cabinetry, workbenches, new toolboxes, and some new tools, and I've yet to get buying lighting. At some point -- like with mods to the track toy -- it goes from an indulgence to nutso!

I think I'd take a lift over the flooring.....I was planning on putting a lift in there also but (like you) it got to the point of too much money on a garage. Maybe I'll get one in a year or two..... What kind of lift did you go with? I've looked at everythign from the 2 post lifts to the sissor lifts.... Not sure what the best option is for me right now...
 
Anytime, thanks for the offer, but I'm already set up.

Newby, I wound up buying a used two-post assymetrical Benwell lift that once sat in a Honda dealership! Benwell is no longer in business, I'm told, but a buddy of mine who spends a lot of time around machine shops and does a lot of work with structural metal issues took a look at it and concluded that it's overbuilt, solid, and -- given my uses -- unlikely to ever require much in the way of repairs or maintenance. Plus, the dealer is the Rotary representative for Oregon, has been around forever, and seems trust-worthy. So, I feel comfortable with the decision, and they'll handle the install as soon as I get the rafters raised to accommodate the new tracking of the garage door.

I decided to get a two-post lift over a four-poster because it's easier to get cars in/out of the garage when a car's on the lift (the posts are deeper in the garage and there are only two of them, rather than four). I liked the idea of never having to use a jack again (including one that sits on the rails of a four-post lift). And I wanted something that would push one car to the ceiling to make room for another car underneath. I'm sure there are lots of other viable choices, but it all made sense to me.

CB
 
I went with a different flooring for my shop. I used horse stall mats laid in a "brick" pattern, from the local Tractor Supply store in my 40 x 110 shop. Each 4x6 mat weighs about 100lbs and is approx 3/4 inch thick rubber. The color is black with a few white/gray specs of color. They are easy on the feet and they have been very durable. The have the added advantage of absorbing sound, the stereo sounds much better with them in place. Plus they can be cut to fit odd shapes. Price runs about 29 to 42 bucks, about 1.70 a sq foot.

Here are a couple of old pictures that show the mats in place.

The first one shows the flooring needs to be cleaned. I use a damp sponge mop or a vacuum set on the lowest level to remove the dirt/dust. Clean up is fast and easy. The creature is my wife's dog, Roxie. My other dogs like the floor so much that I lined the dog houses with the mats.

The second shows a clean floor and the brick pattern.

2004 NSX Black / Camel
———————————————————————————————————————————————–
Our other cars: 2005 SL65 Pewter / 2005 G55 Graphite / 2005 SRT-10 Viper Yellow / 2005 SSR Silver / 2004 Gallardo Yellow / 2004 Z06 Machine Silver / 2004 H2 White / 2002 Candy Red Prowler + 2001 Orange Prowler + 2001 Silver Prowler / 2002 35th Anniversary Camaro SS Convertible / 1970 Black Chevy SWB Pick up / 1969 Garnet Red Camaro SS 350 / 1969 Chevelle SS 396 / 1969 Impala SS 427 / 1968 Chevy Step Side Truck L98/700r4 / 1967 Hugger Orange Camaro 400 / 1966 GTO / 1955 Yellow Chevrolet Truck / 1934 Ford Sedan / 1930 Ford Hiboy Coupe 302 5spd
 

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CBENDER....sounds like you have a sweet setup. You'll have to take pictures when you get it installed. I might have to hold out for a little awhile on the lift. It would definately come in handy for storing the car up high so I could park my motorcycles underneith in the winter.... :smile:

Anytime...I checked out that link but could not find any prices for the lifts. What is the discount you offer for NSXCA members?

SteveT - I like that flooring.... simple and fairly inexpensive...
 
Steve T said:
I went with a different flooring for my shop. I used horse stall mats laid in a "brick" pattern, from the local Tractor Supply store in my 40 x 110 shop. Each 4x6 mat weighs about 100lbs and is approx 3/4 inch thick rubber. The color is black with a few white/gray specs of color. They are easy on the feet and they have been very durable. The have the added advantage of absorbing sound, the stereo sounds much better with them in place. Plus they can be cut to fit odd shapes. Price runs about 29 to 42 bucks, about 1.70 a sq foot.

Here are a couple of old pictures that show the mats in place.

2004 NSX Black / Camel
———————————————————————————————————————————————–
Our other cars: 2005 SL65 Pewter / 2005 G55 Graphite / 2005 SRT-10 Viper Yellow / 2005 SSR Silver / 2004 Gallardo Yellow / 2004 Z06 Machine Silver / 2004 H2 White / 2002 Candy Red Prowler + 2001 Orange Prowler + 2001 Silver Prowler / 2002 35th Anniversary Camaro SS Convertible / 1970 Black Chevy SWB Pick up / 1969 Garnet Red Camaro SS 350 / 1969 Chevelle SS 396 / 1969 Impala SS 427 / 1968 Chevy Step Side Truck L98/700r4 / 1967 Hugger Orange Camaro 400 / 1966 GTO / 1955 Yellow Chevrolet Truck / 1934 Ford Sedan / 1930 Ford Hiboy Coupe 302 5spd

Steve, other than the obvious comments about loving your garage and it's contents, just wanted to compliment you on your choice of colors, always nice to see beautiful "yellow" cars!!! :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
 
Steve T said:
I went with a different flooring for my shop. I used horse stall mats laid in a "brick" pattern, from the local Tractor Supply store in my 40 x 110 shop. Each 4x6 mat weighs about 100lbs and is approx 3/4 inch thick rubber. The color is black with a few white/gray specs of color. They are easy on the feet and they have been very durable. The have the added advantage of absorbing sound, the stereo sounds much better with them in place. Plus they can be cut to fit odd shapes. Price runs about 29 to 42 bucks, about 1.70 a sq foot.

Wow, that looks like a cool option. A few questions, though.......

Have you used any equipment on it, like jacks and jack stands? Have you rolled around on it with a creeper? I'm wondering how durable the mats are dealing with this sort of treatment. I would need to jack my car up on a regular basis.

Also, is there any issue with these and moisture? I wash my car in my garage to keep it out of the sun, and these tiles would have to stay in place/not be slippery when wet.

Thanks! :)

Chuck
 
I use jack stands on it all the time, no problems. Drop a tool and it just barely bounces. Creepers roll on them just like concrete. The mats are very dense. I have a four post lift that sits on top of the mats and it barely leaves an impression in them when it has a car on it.

As far as washing the car on them, I don't see any problem with it, they wash horses on them. Mine have been wet before and I don't recall them being slippery or moving around. They might take a while to dry out but that is the only problem I can think of.

Some of the local schools use them as flooring in the weight training rooms and have never had any problems.
 
Steve T said:
I went with a different flooring for my shop. I used horse stall mats laid in a "brick" pattern, from the local Tractor Supply store in my 40 x 110 shop. Each 4x6 mat weighs about 100lbs and is approx 3/4 inch thick rubber.

I'm coming to the conclusion that this may be a more attractive approach than the RaceDeck tiles for me, given that I was thinking about black/gray colors anyway, and my (two-car) garage is going to be so full of cars (one track car on a lift, one Rotax max kart on a trailer pulled to the ceiling on a winch, and two daily drivers) that it's not as if I'm going to get to actually see the floor except in small sections. Thanks for turning me onto this, Steve.
 
Hrant - I have found that the weight (100lbs) seems to keep them in place pretty well. I have to occasionally adjust one put for the most part they stay where you put them.

The edges are cut square and look good. You could probably cut a 45% bevel in them without to much trouble.

I drilled a couple of holes into a 6 foot piece of angle iron to use as a trimming guide. Just run a couple of screws through the angle iron into the mat and place the utility knife against the edge and in 3 to 5 passes it is cut nice and straight. You can use a circular saw but it makes a hell of mess and you have to be really careful to keep the blade from binding.

The local Tractor Supply only stocks the 4x6 size but I think they make a few other sizes. Here is a link to the manufactures site - http://www.rbrubber.com/ I used the "Tenderfoor Stall Mats".

Pricing is around $40 per mat but the local Tractor Supply store manager made me a deal on a volume buy, I needed about 180 of them for my shop, gave me about 20% off if I remember correctly. They have gone up in price thanks to the rising price of oil...

Some of you city dwellers may have to take a drive out to a smaller town to find these but it is worth it :biggrin: .
 
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