General Modifications

[jrd95nsx]

I am a first time owner of a 95 NSX and I have posted mostly with the Midwest group but I am trying to reach out to a more general audience for feedback. I do put my car on the track and I am currently going through some suspension and breathing upgrades. I bought the car with one previous owner; the guy before me was a straight liner while I prefer the fun of a road course. He had performed many mods to the car which I am in the process of evaluating given he performed them in 1995 and today is 2014. One of his upgrades was a Comptech exhaust from header back while maintaining the original cats. While running this past season at Grattan (a nice little road course outside of Grand Rapids, MI) I experienced separation of the front exhaust header from the pipe into the cat converter. Comptech exhaust then (don't know about now) was a slip fit on the pipe. I have called Comptech easily a dozen times, sent them pictures, emailed but get no answer about a solution-I am not feeling the love. I am thinking that I could simply have the transition welded-any opinions out there? If I knew how I could post some pictures (please feel free to provide a posting tutorial at this point). So, while taking the exhaust apart I decided that I should put in the Science of Speed Oil cooler with reservoir with baffled oil pan. The only problem is that I cannot get the existing pan out without removing the front header. The only problem with that is I cant get at the bolts without removing the front engine support-HELP!!!! If anyone has removed the header I would appreciate some insight cause I don't see how to access all of the bolt points. Another thing I would like to address is the exhaust sound. Like I said I have a Comptech exhaust but I want a bit more sound-suggestions anyone? Finally, I want to put some seats and a harness in my car but there is no seat shop here in town for me to go sit in a seat. Does anyone have some guidance for choosing a seat off of the internet? Any and all comments are appreciated but may be totally ignored if your thought process does not completely follow my own; however your input is appreciated. Thanks, JD

Hey, I forgot to ask: I am having my calipers powder coated and pulled everything apart. I went into the dealer to buy the caliper rebuild kits and they say that the rear kits for boots, etc are no longer available. I thought for sure the caliper would be d=cross referenced with a more current model-does anyone know where the boots might be cross referenced?

 

[Albert86]

Did my 94 calipers last winter (for those that experience seasons )
For the rear caliper rebuild kits I found the same issue of in-availability (domestically)
To start off I bought a "Centric Parts" kit - 143.40021 that looks to include the parts needed.

The kit includes 6 pieces.
Piston dust boot
Piston seal ring
Ebrake inner o-ring
Ebrake special gasket - cup washer
2 more seals - maybe pin seals
(never opened the kits)
...
Seems like the kit is missing the E-brake arm seal - 43242-S02-933 (1 per caliper) - cost now (~$8 ea)
...
I was able to get the the full OEM set (01473-SL0-010) for my 94 from (my dear friend and) user msojdm - with all parts, greases (multiple) and crush washers for
banjo bolts. - ~ ~ $50 - from Japan - misojdm was swell.
...
Centric part kit was ~$8
Centric kit was lower price - available domestically - needed extra e-brake gasket (1 per @ ~ $8) + banjo bolts crush washers (2 per wheel) + specific greases (3).
...
I used the OEM - no reason why.
...
Order the Centric kit - see what it has - then order the balance of parts (or contact misojdm - get the $50 OEM kits - buy him a ... beverage for his trouble)
Read the manual on the different greases and where used.

I have some photos of my brake rebuild if you get stuck.
Mine are like glass - smooth - now (after a season easy running).

(PS - I did Acura/Honda pads and aftermarket cyro rotors too)

 

[sca037]

I need to pull the oil pan from the purple car (thus removing the front header), so I'll let you know what I find out once done.

Removing the front engine support wasn't too bad (on the lift), but there were some very looooong bolts attaching it to the body shell which you have to be careful with your retorquing since they obviously thread into aluminum.

Brian

 

[JD Cross]

I installed headers a few years back and I remember replacing the oil pan gasket as a precaution because the pan wasn't coming out again without removing those headers.
I don't know any other way to do your oil pan work without removing the front header.
Yes it is a major job but if you do a search you will find many great threads on installing headers and reversing the procedure will take you through your job.
If you do remove the headers to do the oil pan work, I'd suggest you consider replacing your a/c compressor while you're in there.
The compressors seem to last about 20 years so yours is about due.

 

[Honcho]

I used the Centric kits here:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/184144-91-96-Brake-Overhaul

They worked great.

The only way you are getting the oil pan out is to remove the headers. You have to remove the front beam and engine mount to do that. When installing the new pan gasket, DO NOT follow the torque specs in the manual- they will be too tight and you will have leaks. Also DO NOT use Hondabond anywhere or again, you will have a nice leak in a few months. The gasket should go on dry and each bolt tightened until the gasket "squishes" out to be flush with the pan/block line. It's a real pain.

 

[davidf]

If you remove the header, I strongly suggest getting new manifold studs/nuts. Makes a lot cleaner job if the old ones are rusty {and usually are}.

 

[jrd95nsx]

Thanks Brian, are you guys still meeting on Wednesdays?
Good points by all, I will let you know how things turn out. Thanks for the lead on the Centric parts.
Re: the AC Compressor, my car only has 10,000 miles-do you feel that it is still a liability?

 

[Anopheles]

Thanks Brian, are you guys still meeting on Wednesdays?
Good points by all, I will let you know how things turn out. Thanks for the lead on the Centric parts.
Re: the AC Compressor, my car only has 10,000 miles-do you feel that it is still a liability?

does your AC compressor still work? mines a 92 with 18k miles and original compressor and its cold as ice.

 

[JD Cross]

the AC Compressor, my car only has 10,000 miles-do you feel that it is still a liability?

I would think your compressor is fine.
My comment on 20 year lifespan is based on 75 k miles plus.

 

[sca037]

Thanks Brian, are you guys still meeting on Wednesdays?

Yes sir!

Brian

 

[jrd95nsx]

Holy Crap! I finally got the header off and was able to remove the oil pan. You have to understand that I am laying on my back working on the garage floor with the car raised about 15 inches off the ground. This whole thing started because my CompTech exhaust shifted while running at Grattan track in GR. The rear header exhaust pipe is a slip fit into a 3 way union that then hooks up to the cat converter. Well, there is a wicked sideways bounce coming out of turn nine that must have caused everything to shift. I have called and called CompTech but they have been absolutely no help. anyway, I have headers off, and I am going to weld the slip fit. Does anyone want to recommend a nice sounding exhaust-I am not super thrilled with my CompTech. So now, while I'm here I am going to replace the front motor mount, add the SOS oil cooler, reservoir, and baffled pan. Brakes are out being powder coated and I am going to concentrate on suspension-everything and anything I can do. Are 20 year old Koni coilovers still good or have shocks changed significantly that I would see a diff? I am seeing some signs of wheel rub high in the wheel well rears. As always, any help is appreciated.

- - - Updated - - -

I used the Centric kits here:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/184144-91-96-Brake-Overhaul

They worked great.

The only way you are getting the oil pan out is to remove the headers. You have to remove the front beam and engine mount to do that. When installing the new pan gasket, DO NOT follow the torque specs in the manual- they will be too tight and you will have leaks. Also DO NOT use Hondabond anywhere or again, you will have a nice leak in a few months. The gasket should go on dry and each bolt tightened until the gasket "squishes" out to be flush with the pan/block line. It's a real pain.

So what kind of torque specs are you supposed to use if you don't follow the service manual?

- - - Updated - - -

Yes sir!

Brian

You ready to make a trip on a sat or sun to see what I got going?

 

[Honcho]

So what kind of torque specs are you supposed to use if you don't follow the service manual?

The old Mk 1 eyeball lol. Follow the pattern in the manual and torque until the gasket squishes out to be flush. It's around 5-6 ft lbs.

 

[jrd95nsx]

The old Mk 1 eyeball lol. Follow the pattern in the manual and torque until the gasket squishes out to be flush. It's around 5-6 ft lbs.

Hey Honcho, somewhere I think i saw that you pulled your calipers apart and painted them so I am curious as to what paint you used. Can you redirect me to that post so that i can see it? I pulled my calipers off and took them in to have them powder coated and the guy told me i needed to completely disassemble the rears; I cannot get the rears completely apart with that deep O-ring and i dont want a mismatch front to rear. Even the Acura mechanic recommended that I not take apart the rears. Your thoughts and comments?

 

[stuntman]

Big fan of the KW V3 coilovers and recaro pole position seats (Recaro SPGs if you're not a big fellow.

 

[Blackhorse06]

JRD,

I don't know if you have seen this: http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?8732-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index but this is an excellent reference page. While I have never spoken to KAZ I have followed his advice via his blog on several issues, and have found them to be very helpful. As far as I can tell he is also very responsive to questions. just my .02

 

[jrd95nsx]

Big fan of the KW V3 coilovers and recaro pole position seats (Recaro SPGs if you're not a big fellow.

Where did you get the seats? did you put a harness in as well?

- - - Updated - - -

JRD,

I don't know if you have seen this: http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?8732-NSX-Technical-and-Service-Information-Index but this is an excellent reference page. While I have never spoken to KAZ I have followed his advice via his blog on several issues, and have found them to be very helpful. As far as I can tell he is also very responsive to questions. just my .02

Thanks, I will take a look.

 

[jorligan]

PM me. I have Sparco EVO and Cobra Misano if you want a test fit. Concur regarding KW3. I can possibly help with install except for corner weight. Good luck with harness bar. I helped with the last group but with titanium Dave. He was making the harness bar for Science of Speed

 

[stuntman]

Lots of places to get the seats. There is a lot of controversy over having a racing seat without a harness or roll bar, but many OEM manufacturers use racing seats with no harness or roll bar and that's what i'm doing for my car.

 

[Honcho]

Hey Honcho, somewhere I think i saw that you pulled your calipers apart and painted them so I am curious as to what paint you used. Can you redirect me to that post so that i can see it? I pulled my calipers off and took them in to have them powder coated and the guy told me i needed to completely disassemble the rears; I cannot get the rears completely apart with that deep O-ring and i dont want a mismatch front to rear. Even the Acura mechanic recommended that I not take apart the rears. Your thoughts and comments?

I used VHT caliper paint (red) and VHT flameproof primer. I talked to Brembo about paint and they said the key is in the prep. The metal should be surgically clean before painting. If you read my link here, you'll see I spent 75% of my time on prep and 25% on paint. The results are fabulous, but TBD as far as track duty.

If you take apart the rears, you NEED the special tools, which are shown in my thread above. I cannot see how you can get that snap ring out without the spring compressor and pliers. According to Kaz, in Japan they require a full brake rebuild every 2 years as part of their MOT and he recommends at least every 5 or so, so the tools were a good investment for me. That said, even I got stuck on the rears and had to ask Kaz for help. He was kind enough to explain that to get the last bits out (the cup), you need to actuate the parking break lever and it should just pop out. Keep in mind that the needle bearing cavity that holds the parking brake cam is NOT removable. You just clean it out with brake cleaner while spinning the needles with your finger. Then, re-lube it.

After talking to Brembo, I am leery of powder-coating brake calipers if your car will see any track duty. Powder coat will act like an insulator and trap heat in the calipers. That means all sorts of bad things at the track, where you want to shed as much heat as possible. You fluid boils faster, the seals wear faster, etc. For a street driven NSX, I think it's fine (many OEM's powder coat their calipers) and you will have some nice blingy brakes! The powder coat process introduces only about as much heat into the caliper as driving around town, so I don't think you have to take them down to bare. That said, if it were my brakes I still would tear them down because I have the tools and I am paranoid lol. I think your powder coat guy doesn't want to gum up the caliper and would rather make sure all the moving parts are removed.

HTH