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Guys who are DROPPED - list your Alignment specs here....

Yes toe is what scrubs a tire and causes the MOST amount of improper tire wear, but negative camber can have the same effect just not as fast. Moving the contact patch that much (up to -4*) will DEFINITELY cause improper wear. You are riding on the inside half of the tire, its inevitable over time to half uneven wear.

What I do for these types of applications is have the tires dismounted and remounted side to side around half of the tread life. This gets me the optimal use out of the tires since Im not just wearing away the inside edge until they are useless.
 
Re: Alignment Advice (formerly:Guys who are DROPPED - list your Alignment specs here.

I am taking my lowered (approx 1 ") '99 supercharged in to have left front tie rod replaced, new tires on the front and most importantly an alignment.

I had the car at the track a few weeks ago. The left front inner got quite worn but i suspect the loose tie rod end.

The rears are wearing evenly but very quickly (50 %; 1 track day + 2500 highway miles)

So i see many resulting readings after alignment in this thread but what should i tell the shop as far as settings or direction? They are not very performance oriented but have one of the few machines that i can drive the car onto the machine due to lowering.

I would say that i am an occasional track driver who does some aggressive driving but does want to get more than 4000 miles out of tires.

Based on the bolded section above, you will probably want to be w/in stock spec for both camber and toe alignment. Of course, w/ the lowering, you might not get the rear into spec, but get it as close as you can. I would also suggest putting your front camber a little more negative; near the negative maximum for spec.
 
The factory toe settings are actually pretty aggressive on these cars, most just assume that stock setting wont be enough for the track. To maintain streetability and yet still be able to do some track time without getting an alignment every lapping day Id stick with the stock specs.

Camber is the tough one. I was able to get both my front camber and caster in spec but my rear is close to -4* like others have posted :frown:
 
My alignment specs:

Front Left:
Camber: -0.7
Caster: 7.4
Toe: -0.1

Front Right:
Camber: -0.7
Caster: 7.7
Toe: -0.1

Rear Left:
Camber: -1.5
Toe: 0.16

Rear Right:
Camber: -1.5
Toe: 0.16

Its lowered 1.5" on H&R's, 17/18 Volks with Thoms camber kit.

In regards to toe vs camber wearing out tires, the toe is the primary spec that will cause improper tire wear. With that said, excessive camber will kill tires just as bad as toe. I had -3.5 camber before installing Thoms kit and my rear tires lasted like 3k. The tires looked brand new except the inside inch where it was showing belts.<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
 
is there anyone out there running with H & R lowering springs with an 1.5 inch drop? and if so what is your set up on wheels and tires? and are you rubbing? offset?

thanks cheers!
 
Me, see above post. Wheels are Volk GT-N 17x8 & 18x10, can't remember exact offsets (+30-40 I think) Tires are 215/40R17 & 265/35R18 and absolutly no rubbing front or rear.
 
Are there still camper kits available? I thought I read that the thom kit isn't ?
 
I've seen a few floating around but I have yet to confirm anyone still has the tools to do the job. Plus I don't find it comforting that after spending 400$ on some simple brushing and even more for the labor to install let alone down time of the vehicle that they can potentially fail or wear out. Weak investment in my opinion.

Not sure with such a high demand someone hasn't be able to make a replacement adjustable control arm, every other vehicle has them available seems like.
 
For those lowered with oe springs and bilstein lower perch dampers, were you able to get back into ok numbers without any camper kits?
 
Bilstein Lower Perch
15mm spacer front
25mm back

FL
-.02 Camber
8 Caster
-0.07in Toe

FR
-.04
8
-0.07in

RL
-2.0 Camber
0.07in Toe

RR
-1.7 Camber
0.09in Toe

Just got it done today... what do guys think?
 
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tein s-techs, stock shocks....

LF camber: -.9
toe: -.14

RF
camber: -1.0
toe: -.13

LR
camber: -2.0
toe: -.13

RR
camber: -2.1
toe: -.15
 
Just did my alignment yesterday.

TEIN Flex

Front Caster
L: 9.2°
R: 8.5°


Front Camber

L: -2.7°
R: -2.7°

Front Toe
L: 0.15°
R: 0.15°
Total: 0.30°


Rear Camber

L: -4.4°
R: -4.4°


Rear Toe

L: 0.15°
R: 0.15°
Total: 0.30°

SAI
L: 10.8°
R: 10.7°

Incluuded Angle
L: 8.1°
R: 8.0°


Crazy specs Synth...I hope you plan on flipping your tires every 3k for that neg camber. I'm at 1.5 front and 2.5 rear and notice it.
 
My Specs Done This Weekend:


Front Left:
Camber: -1.0 degrees
Caster: 8.5 degrees
Toe: -0.08 in (out 2mm)

Front Right:
Camber: -1.0 degrees
Caster: 8.5 degrees
Toe: -0.08 in (out 2mm)

Rear Left:
Camber: -2.2 degrees
Toe: 0.04 (in 1mm)

Rear Right:
Camber: -2.2 degrees
Toe: 0.04 (in 1mm)
 
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I recently aligned my car...Since I'm little "specific" in this things, guys from the shop really wanted to shoot me....both of them :biggrin:. They work almost an hour and a half on my car.

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DSC00348.jpg
 
I recently aligned my car...Since I'm little "specific" in this things, guys from the shop really wanted to shoot me....both of them :biggrin:. They work almost an hour and a half on my car.

DSC00347.jpg


DSC00351.jpg


DSC00352.jpg


DSC00348.jpg

Nice Rims you got there!

I wonder if theres a suggested custom alignment with the KW v3 coilovers
 
Darko, next time try sitting in the driver's seat during the alignment. That will get you even more "specific" results and it's a great place to see the results of the adjustments being made by the tech.
 
Darko, next time try sitting in the driver's seat during the alignment. That will get you even more "specific" results and it's a great place to see the results of the adjustments being made by the tech.

I think that numbers "measurements" provided from the alignment machine manufacturer are for loaded free vehicle and they are calculated with tolerance keeping in mind that adding a driver weight will lead you to some zero point, but this only takes in case for stock vehicles. Maybe, for race cars, where the fast cornering is more precise, alignment with added driver weight is needed.
 
I think that numbers "measurements" provided from the alignment machine manufacturer are for loaded free vehicle and they are calculated with tolerance keeping in mind that adding a driver weight will lead you to some zero point, but this only takes in case for stock vehicles. Maybe, for race cars, where the fast cornering is more precise, alignment with added driver weight is needed.


One nice benefit of sitting in the driver's seat during alignment is the great view of the monitor from that position.

For any target alignment spec, such as front camber, only one number is given... i.e. 1.5 degrees for both left and right wheels. Adding weight to one side of the vehicle can change the alignment numbers unevenly from left to right and the alignment machine doesn't know the driver's weight and can't adjust for it.
Whenever I sit in the car for an alignment, the technicians ALWAYS tell me not to move, so the weight must make a difference.

In any case, it's more comfortable than just standing around the shop or worse yet, sitting in a waiting room where I cant see what's being done.
 
I thought I'd bump this thread since it's been awhile. My car has stock coils and bilsteins on the lower perch. Any #'s someone can share? I should be going to the dealer for an alignment sometime soon since I just got new Dunlop SS II's.
 
I thought I'd bump this thread since it's been awhile. My car has stock coils and bilsteins on the lower perch. Any #'s someone can share? I should be going to the dealer for an alignment sometime soon since I just got new Dunlop SS II's.

+1

Any recommended settings for street use. I believe the drop on the lower perch is approx. 0.7 inch
 
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