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Hot trunk problem solved

Joined
5 April 2004
Messages
3,446
Location
SoCal
My stereo installation with the amp in the spare tire well compounded the fact that the trunk was too hot. The main area of concern was the spare tire tool area which is sitting right above the muffler. After mild driving, if you felt that area you'd notice that it was really hot.

There aren't a whole lot of products available to solve this problem. I knew from owning a Grand National that a company called Thermotec made great products to beat the heat. I gave their tech support line a call to see which of their products would work best. They recommended the Muffler/Cat heat shield. I placed my order with Speedzone 24-7 and 4 business days later, the product arrived. The total came out to be $55.59 shipped.

The kit is a 24"x30" sheet of woven silica with a reflective aluminum side and comes with plastic fasteners which secure themselves into 1/4" holes you drill. Here is a picture of the kit:
9919exhaust_shield-2.JPG


Our cars come with an aluminum heatshield that is mounted right above the muffler. I decided to use the bolts that fasten the heatshield to help secure the Thermotec heatshield. It was a simple process. The heatshield is perfectly sized, no need to cut. I layed it out, reflective side down, and positioned it. I started off removing one bolt at a time, then taking a razor blade and slicing a line through the heatshield to get it through and tighten the bolt (You can kinda push through and feel around where you should make the slice). After about 6 or 7 bolts, heatshield was pretty secure. I wanted to make it tighter at the corners so I found parts in the frame that I could drill a 1/4" hole in and fasten it with the supplied plastic fasteners. Then toward the back of the car, I found that the edges of the factory heat shield made good spots to drill through to put 2 more fasteners in. I put one final plastic fastener in the center of the heat shield but had to cut it down because there wasn't much clearance after drilling through the center of the heatshield. The whole install took about 1.5 hours. Make sure you wear goggles and gloves and you can do the install on your back with the car on jackstands.

I took the car out for a drive today, mixed freeway and street for about half an hour. First thing I did was I checked the spare tire area and it was significantly cooler than before. It was really just a little warm, not hot like before. I wish I could have done a more scientific before and after but I can honestly say it's a huge difference.

Now here are some before and after pictures. More can be found on My Gallery

Before:

9919exhaust-6.JPG


After

9919exhaust_shield-3.JPG

9919exhaust_shield-5.JPG

9919exhaust_shield-8.JPG
 
I did the same job this weekend Malibu.
I also got some of the self-adhesive type, to stick up in front of the main exhaust area, by the cats & the header.
I didn't take temperatures, and although it possibly feels slightly less hot it is still pretty damn hot on the bare trunk floor. Is that a stock muffler? I think it has a heat shield built in too, right? The comptech also is very close to the floor at the rear & I also have headers which may generate some more heat in closer proximity to the floor.

I used a similar technique to you on the blanket, using predominantly the bolts that attach the OEM heat shield to the under-side of the trunk. However I cut the blanket to the shape of the heat-shield & used some additional sheet-metal screws to secure it in place (I cut off the excess thread on the top-side with my Dremel) I also stuck the self adhesive stuff around the front area by the cats/headers & also directly under the tool-pan. I only got 2 sheets of the self-adhesive & if I was doing it again, I would get at least 4 and do more surface area down there in addition to the blanket.
Here's what in ended up like:
 

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D'Ecosse said:
Is that a stock muffler? I think it has a heat shield built in too, right? The comptech also is very close to the floor at the rear & I also have headers which may generate some more heat in closer proximity to the floor.

I have the RSR exhaust and no headers. The RSR exhaust is fairly close to the floor but you could probably be dealing with radiant header heat like you said as well. Did you get the same muffler/cat heat shield? I wonder if we have the same material, it almost looks the same. You did a great job of making it look clean but doesn't the exposed edges on the stock heat shield leave it vulnerable to heat which it will conduct across the entire shield? It is a small surface area but the heat will sneak in through the gaps and onto the metal surface, just theorizing... I kinda wish I had purchased the glue when I was doing the work because I could have covered the bolts which conduct heat to the floor as well. Come to think of it, those exposed bolts defeat the purpose of the heatshield as they are allowed to conduct heat directly through the mat. I think I'll buy some of the heat tape to cover my bolts now.

I'm pretty sure my heat was coming from the muffler and cat because it's a night and day difference now. Funny story, I remember once I was working underneath my muffler giving the car an oil change. It was hot, I was sweaty, and I turned on my side to reach for something and I heard this sizzle sound like a wet sponge being thrown on a hot cast iron frying pan. It was the sweat on my shoulder being fried off and I had a slight burn on my shoulder. But that's how hot the muffler gets...

Now I can probably start putting my groceries in the trunk again. :)
 
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Malibu Rapper said:
I'm pretty sure my heat was coming from the muffler and cat because it's a night and day difference now.
Yes it's the same muffler shield plus the stick-on stuff.

I'm not sure the exposed bolts should make that much difference Malibu - however the problem is we're dealing with Aluminum which obviously a fabulous conductor of heat.

edit: When I think about it more now, I guess my stick-on stuff will carry heat across the surface then directly onto the back-side of the aluminum heat-shield!!!!! (see picture below) I guess I should have folded it around that front section onto the top side. I can use the piece off the muffler shield material I cut off to space between the heat shield & the frame I suppose, which should help to insulate it.

Did you check the temperature directly on the floor painted surface, or are you just going by the general temperature in the trunk? I guess it's conceivable that the floor insulation could also reduce the heat into the general trunk area. I was thinking of packing the cavity between the heat-shield & the bottom of the floor with some insulating material - I wonder what a good medium might be? I'm not sure what temp regular fiberglass insulation is good for. I'd be concerned about fire of course so would want to be sure it's safe.
 

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D'Ecosse said:
I'm not sure what temp regular fiberglass insulation is good for. I'd be concerned about fire of course so would want to be sure it's safe.

Fiberglass insulation is non-combustible. The paper backing on home insulation can burn but the fiberglass itself does not. It is basically made of sand and glass.
 
interesting.
how hot does the trunk get after long driving?
i have a drive back there that tends to error out after long drives.
maybe the heat is affecting it?
 
I checked the temperature of the bare floor with my hand. I know from experience that it gets hot and often unpleasant after even 15 minutes of driving. I believe it could normally slowly cook an egg. After the installation of the mat, it's just warm where it was normally hot. I know the bolts will definitely get hot since they are exposed. Then you think of it kinda like a rod that has the thread area wherever it touches the body of the car conducting heat along a great heat conductor, aluminum. If you had a soldering iron pressed up against the floor it would get hot.

I'm going to pick up a sheet of the 12x12 stick on stuff so I can cut it up into 3" squares and cover the bolts up just to be more comprehensive.
 
You might want to pick up an extra couple of sheets & line the under-side of the tool-pan with it. I stuck one sheet on there, but it could probably use two.
Malibu Rapper said:
I'm going to pick up a sheet of the 12x12 stick on stuff so I can cut it up into 3" squares and cover the bolts up just to be more comprehensive.
But if you think about it, that will stop the radiated heat from the muffler getting to the bolts, but the conducted heat will still travel across the aluminized surface of the blanket & into the bolt regardless. (Similar problem to my adhesive panels touching back-side of the heat-shield) To truly isolate it I guess it needs an insulation between the bolt heads & the mat surface. Maybe better yet, some plastic bolts!
Where do you stop? LOL!
 
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Quick update:
I installed another piece of left-over of the muffler/cat insulation material sandwiched between the parts previously described & circled in the post # 4 above - I folded it over so the two aluminized sides were together & the two "white" sides were the ones contacting the back of the OEM aluminum heat-shield and the chassis part with the stick-on shield attached (hope that makes sense?) This effectively removes the direct metal/metal contact between those surfaces.

Anyway, that has made a major difference - this is definitely a project worth doing. The plaudits go to Malibu for identifying this plan - even though we both executed at the same time, he came up with the material in an earlier thread. There are some differences in the final application but we both found appreciable benfits. I really wish I had had access to a pyrometer for before & after tests for conclusive data.

I too got mine from Speedzone 24-7

Catalog

I would recommend
4 x sheet of the product # 13575 - the Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier
(this will be good for the underside of the trunk tool-well and the engine firewall by the exhaust manifolds/headers/cats)
1 x sheet of the product # 16500 - Muffler /Cat Heat Shield
This will cover the OEM aluminum Heat shield.
 
Curse you Malibu and curse you D'Ecosse! As a result of you two and your stupid website link, I now have about 10 projects in my head using this stuff. Thanks a lot, you just doubled my NSX 'to do' list:)
 
Ken/Malibu - This sounds like something anyone with an aftermarket exhaust should do. Serious thanks to Malibu and you for all the effort in figuring this out so we can all benefit from your ingenuity. Thanks, Michael
 
Was thinking of you as I wrote this update Michael - when are we doing yours? :D
Get the stuff on order - I think I feel an exhaust installation party coming on ........
 
If Ken helps you you're gonna be riding cool. He and I have both learned a lot through trial and error.

This stuff is addictive though, kinda reminds me of the first time I damped a car with Dynamat... I wanna cover all the metal parts up...
 
Shouldn't you be having fun..hittting the bar and women? GET OUT!!!! forget prime til' you come back..................

Malibu Rapper said:
If Ken helps you you're gonna be riding cool. He and I have both learned a lot through trial and error.

This stuff is addictive though, kinda reminds me of the first time I damped a car with Dynamat... I wanna cover all the metal parts up...
 
PoohBEAR said:
Shouldn't you be having fun..hittting the bar and women? GET OUT!!!! forget prime til' you come back..................

I'd like to think that Malibu's getting "massaged" while posting on Prime. Wait a minute, that thought just grossed me out. :tongue:
 
What you suggest works for insulation that blocks conduction of heat. The insulation that Malibu and D'Ecosse used is not a conductive insulator. It has a reflective coating on it and it is designed to block / reflect radiant energy and the shiny side must be exposed to the hot object; but, the shiny surface must not be in contact with the hot object. The backing on this type of insulating mat is designed to tolerate high temperatures; but, has relatively little insulating value when it comes to blocking the conduction of heat. If you put the reflective material in the trunk with the reflective surface in contact with the hot trunk floor you will effectively eliminate just about all of the insulation value of the mat. Your idea can potentially work; but, you will need something that blocks the conduction of heat. 3M sells a bunch of automotive insulation products that are similar to their thinsulate jacket insulation. You will typically see it in quilt form stuck into the body cavities in modern cars. Unfortunately, 3M sells to OEMs so not really accessible unless you want to buy a couple thousand square foot roll.

The primary issue with the OPs insulation technique is that type of radiant reflector relies on a shiny surface. Once the surface gets contaminated with dirt and oil and loses some of its reflectivity, its effectiveness as an insulator tends to go in the toilet.
 
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