How difficult to change clutch?

[jwmelvin]

how did you like the 350? I'm thinking of going with it after the ct PGII is gone

I like the clutch but it only lasted 13-14k miles. My CTSC makes around 400 whp and 260 ft-lb torque. Pedal effort was higher than I would prefer but not terrible at all and I am fine with that if necessary to hold the required torque. It had about 6k miles of stop-and-go daily commuting and ~100 autocross launches.

I'm going to try having it rebuilt and if it doesn't last this time I will install the NA2 NSX-R input shaft and use a dual-disc clutch.

 

[Estoril_NSX]

This was good, thank you

 

[SWFL_NSX]

I just got my transmission and clutch out. Thanks for all the tips on this forum and personal consulting by Ben of Daisy Import Auto. I followed LarryB's advice and pulled the front beam off, which helped with clearance for a variety of things. The downside is requiring more support for the engine, which is left with just one mount. I used a jack and wood support under the oil pan, and a beam above with a ratchet strap around the area between the throttle body and CTSC snout (the beam sits on folded moving blankets).

I'm doing this process now and need to support the engine b/c I've removed the front beam. I don't have a CTSC so not clear on where to place the strap...

If I put the ratchet strap under the mouth of the throttle body will it support the weight of the engine while I remove the transmission?

 

[jwmelvin]

I'm doing this process now and need to support the engine b/c I've removed the front beam. I don't have a CTSC so not clear on where to place the strap...

If I put the ratchet strap under the mouth of the throttle body will it support the weight of the engine while I remove the transmission?

I felt better not putting all the weight on the throttle body connection, but also putting a piece of wood and a jack under the oil pan.

 

[drew]

I use a measured 1" x 2"-4" board to hold up the rim of the oil pan or edge of the engine block. Once the car is on jack stands cut the wood to the height, plus a finger width, from the floor to the bottom of the block. This will hold the engine up well and stay out of the way.

 

[Superhatch]

Bringing this back from the dead as I'm looking at replacing my clutch soon. The disks are sold out from Acura, but I did find an OEM set (BNIB) on Ebay so I might go that route instead of an SOS 275. Two questions though:

1. Should I also replace the pressure plate? 180k, unknown last change.
2. If I keep the OEM flywheel should I resurface it as I normally would during a clutch change.

TIA
-Jacob

 

[Honcho]

Bringing this back from the dead as I'm looking at replacing my clutch soon. The disks are sold out from Acura, but I did find an OEM set (BNIB) on Ebay so I might go that route instead of an SOS 275. Two questions though:

1. Should I also replace the pressure plate? 180k, unknown last change.
2. If I keep the OEM flywheel should I resurface it as I normally would during a clutch change.

TIA
-Jacob

Twin disc? You can buy the friction discs separately from Amayama. For resurfacing, it's usually dependent on condition. If the flywheel is really glazed and bumpy, then you should do it (same with the midplate). If it's relatively clean, then you can skip it. Similarly, on the pressure plate, the key is to look for wear at the tip of the spring fingers where they contact the release bearing . This is where they fail. If it is just light marking, you're ok.

TBH, at 180k, I'd look at replacing the entire clutch set. That's a lot of flexing on the pressure plate. Again you can get the whole thing from Amayama way less than US Acura.

 

[drew]

I'm 99.7% with Honcho. If the clutch grabs just fine now, probably just throw in some new discs and a new throw-out bearing. If you can't tell if the clutch is used 180,000 miles, then it is probably good.

Though you should almost never skimp on a new throw out bearing.

One can also reline your old disks, indeed one can get the whole clutch set rebuilt too. FT Wayne Clutch is my goto.

Do not throw away your old disks, stuff like this is going to get valuable.

FYI, the entire clutch set fits into a Large Flate Rate USPS box, just wire it all together so it doesn't fall apart in transit...the box will be heavy.

 

[SWFL_NSX]

One can also reline your old disks, indeed one can get the whole clutch set rebuilt too. FT Wayne Clutch is my goto.

Do not throw away your old disks, stuff like this is going to get valuable.

I still have the OE flywheel/disks/midplate that I pulled off my 92-if anybody wants them shoot me an offer.

They were removed when the car had 104k. I just replaced everything when I had the transmission out to eliminate a squeak in the fork/throwout bearing area. No slipping or chatter but would recommend rebuilding before installing.

 

[Superhatch]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll have to dig in and see what it looks like. It looks like the Amayama clutch kit is about $1400 which is about on par with the SOS275. It seems you cant order the pressure plate separately, just as part of the kit, and since I don't really know the maintenance of this car I'd just like to replace everything for piece of mind, especially if I'll have everything apart.

Guess I'll just have to decide on OEM or the SOS kit with the light flywheel and single disk. I do love a good light flywheel.