After reading here that some were replacing all the amp chips and capacitors, I thought there must be a cheaper, better way to do this repair. For every component you remove, you run a very high risk of lifting the pad & trace connecting that component to the rest of the circuit. Older circuit board revisions have no resist since these are very low-cost amplifiers.
I had removed my passenger door amp over two years ago and it was sitting in a bag. This amp would "pop" then drop to half volume then eventually return to normal volume. So a month ago I pulled it out and to my suprise, it had a "wet" spot in the center ofthe board. The small green Nichicon capacitors had leaked their electrolytic onto the board. The repair was going to be easier than I thought.
Down to the local store to get 4 capacitors and soldered them onto the board. Put the amp and speaker back together. Plugged it in and it works flawlessly now. I turn the volume knob on the radio half a turn and this speaker is loud and clear. I ran it this way for 10 minutes and the problem has not returned.
While replacing all the amp chips and capacitors fixes the problem, it doesn't point to the actual problem. The green Nichicon metal-can capacitors are flawed. Replace all of these with newer, higher grade Nichicon caps or whatever brand you prefer. It is suprising that Nichicon turned out bad caps since the are generally a very good manufacturer.
I spent the day removing the other 2 amps and speakers. The woofer amp is a slightly different amp with one more pin on its connector and populated differently. Having seen the 3 amps at once, I see that the green capacitors show up in different places. The woofer amp has 3 green caps, that have leaked, in the center of the board. The driver-side amp has 7 green caps that have not leaked. The driver-side amp was the last one to die with a squeal.
I am putting a web page together with all the details so anyone with a few tools and a soldering iron can fix their amps.
Stay tuned!
I had removed my passenger door amp over two years ago and it was sitting in a bag. This amp would "pop" then drop to half volume then eventually return to normal volume. So a month ago I pulled it out and to my suprise, it had a "wet" spot in the center ofthe board. The small green Nichicon capacitors had leaked their electrolytic onto the board. The repair was going to be easier than I thought.
Down to the local store to get 4 capacitors and soldered them onto the board. Put the amp and speaker back together. Plugged it in and it works flawlessly now. I turn the volume knob on the radio half a turn and this speaker is loud and clear. I ran it this way for 10 minutes and the problem has not returned.
While replacing all the amp chips and capacitors fixes the problem, it doesn't point to the actual problem. The green Nichicon metal-can capacitors are flawed. Replace all of these with newer, higher grade Nichicon caps or whatever brand you prefer. It is suprising that Nichicon turned out bad caps since the are generally a very good manufacturer.
I spent the day removing the other 2 amps and speakers. The woofer amp is a slightly different amp with one more pin on its connector and populated differently. Having seen the 3 amps at once, I see that the green capacitors show up in different places. The woofer amp has 3 green caps, that have leaked, in the center of the board. The driver-side amp has 7 green caps that have not leaked. The driver-side amp was the last one to die with a squeal.
I am putting a web page together with all the details so anyone with a few tools and a soldering iron can fix their amps.
Stay tuned!