how to get around 300+ rwhp NA?

han0355 · 7 January 2012

Hi folks,

I think this might have been brought up a few times on forum, but I think this would be a bit more specific.

I am looking for bump up a little bit of acceleration without messing my balance for cornering, would love to bump up some slight horses or play some tricks on the gearing. What would you guys do? Any specific brands that you thought is handy? i,e 4.55 Comptech Final Gear or some other mods.

Also, what kind of mods would you guys start with to improve significant lap time besides tires/pads/suspension?

integrals · 8 January 2012

han0355 said:
Hi folks,

I think this might have been brought up a few times on forum, but I think this would be a bit more specific.

I am looking for bump up a little bit of acceleration without messing my balance for cornering, would love to bump up some slight horses or play some tricks on the gearing. What would you guys do? Any specific brands that you thought is handy? i,e 4.55 Comptech Final Gear or some other mods.

Also, what kind of mods would you guys start with to improve significant lap time besides tires/pads/suspension?

300rwhp n/A is my goal too..

My stock 3.0L just put down 257whp on a Dynapack last night after two years of track abuse (242whp two years ago, same stuff).

I/H/E, all comptech.

Next move, SOS ITB's. Should get me damn close to 300whp!

HBui39 · 8 January 2012

integrals said:
300rwhp n/A is my goal too..

My stock 3.0L just put down 257whp on a Dynapack last night after two years of track abuse (242whp two years ago, same stuff).

I/H/E, all comptech.

Next move, SOS ITB's. Should get me damn close to 300whp!

...plus AEM ECU and dyno tune.

tbnsxt · 8 January 2012

I would go with comptech headers, high flow cats or test pipes, a light weight muffler(taitec GT lightweight) or equivalent, sos Individual throttle bodies, and some ecu tuning (stand alone ecu, with dyno tune). That should extract about as much as you can out of the stock motor without doing any internal engine work.

I would also have your fuel injectors cleaned and tested depending on the mileage of your car.

Look in the the os giken 4.44 r&p lsd. That should allow you to use more than 2nd gear on the street, and the excelent lsd will definitly aid in cornering exit acceleration.

A light weight flywheel for the stock clutch or the science of speed sport clutch will also reduce rotating mass and put less load on your motor. (This will be most noticeable in 1st and 2nd gear and upon initial acceleration).

lastly, any weight reduction you can do to your car will definitely make it faster in all aspects of driving. (i.e. dont use 18 and 19 inch wheels.)

han0355 · 8 January 2012

integrals said:
300rwhp n/A is my goal too..

My stock 3.0L just put down 257whp on a Dynapack last night after two years of track abuse (242whp two years ago, same stuff).

I/H/E, all comptech.

Next move, SOS ITB's. Should get me damn close to 300whp!

Your saying your engine output actually gained after two years of tracking?? or am i mistaken lol??

han0355 · 8 January 2012

tbnsxt said:
I would go with comptech headers, high flow cats or test pipes, a light weight muffler(taitec GT lightweight) or equivalent, sos Individual throttle bodies, and some ecu tuning (stand alone ecu, with dyno tune). That should extract about as much as you can out of the stock motor without doing any internal engine work.

I would also have your fuel injectors cleaned and tested depending on the mileage of your car.

Look in the the os giken 4.44 r&p lsd. That should allow you to use more than 2nd gear on the street, and the excelent lsd will definitly aid in cornering exit acceleration.

A light weight flywheel for the stock clutch or the science of speed sport clutch will also reduce rotating mass and put less load on your motor. (This will be most noticeable in 1st and 2nd gear and upon initial acceleration).

lastly, any weight reduction you can do to your car will definitely make it faster in all aspects of driving. (i.e. dont use 18 and 19 inch wheels.)

Yes, yes. pretty close to my target setting. So far I have comptech header/exhaust but it will be swapped with taitec center exit+test pipes.
How many hp do u think I will be gaining just by tuning the stock ECU??
Looking to put comptech 4.55 final gear but prob won't do LSD, too much of money and i'd say stock is not too bad!
I wonder where most of the weight reduction can come out from too...

tbnsxt · 8 January 2012

Well with the individual throttle bodies, a really good tune will get them to their full power increase potential you could see gains of up to 40 hp.

weight reduction: spare tire, bracket, engine cover, tool set/jack/pump, intake maniflod replaced with itb, headers, muffler, test pipes, seats (stock seats are heavy) steering wheel with no airbag.

and you cant go wrong with a lightweight set of wheels and tires.

docjohn · 8 January 2012

my 298 rwh on a dynojet is well documented on prime.96 with the full comptech "powertech" IEM package.Also at the time had shorties and 4.55 rp

tbnsxt · 8 January 2012

I also have the IEM package! It gives the engine an added growl too.

Track Addict · 8 January 2012

Glad to see lots of helpful parts advice here on staying NA. All things I woul recommend to the op as well.

integrals · 8 January 2012

han0355 said:
Your saying your engine output actually gained after two years of tracking?? or am i mistaken lol??

You are correct! it GAINED.

Same dyno, same time of year, same exact components!

And yes of course with AEM / Dyno Tune. That was a given

HBui39 · 8 January 2012

if smog isnt an issue, run test pipes too.

but yeah, lose weight and improve the gearing. either short gear or 6 speed. not sure where you intend to source the 4.55 gears... as the only options i can find now are NSX-R 4.23 or OS GIken 4.4. (but you gotta get an LSD with that)

tbnsxt · 9 January 2012

Although weight reduction is a good thing, I would not remove anything fron the car that will jeopardize your safety. The spare tire and bracket actually is a major factor in frontal impact safety. If you remove them you are decreasing your frontal impact strength. Although many people including myself run without it do keep in mind that your safety has been compromised.

whitebois · 9 January 2012

If you are going to change final drive you can shim the oem lsd and that will increase the % lockup as in the nsxr. Once you have it apart it is pretty cheap to do.

EdinKali · 9 January 2012

integrals said:
You are correct! it GAINED.

Same dyno, same time of year, same exact components!

And yes of course with AEM / Dyno Tune. That was a given

I think I recall seeing a Best Motoring video where they dyno tested an NSX with over 156,000 kilometers and it put down more hp than when it was new. NSX's seem to get better/faster with age.

stuntman · 9 January 2012

Id highly recommend the OS Giken 4.40lsd. The lsd will improve handling and lap times and driveability and the 4.4 final drive will benefit acceleration everywhere. I agree with the JDM gear ratio or 6-speed.

Weight reduction is big. Spare tire, carbon nsxr wing and side intakes, seats, etc...

Lightweight clutch will help too. I have a slightly used one of the lightest clutches made for the nsx if your interested. Exedy twin disc carbon clutch.

GhettoRacer · 9 January 2012

the best way to achieve power NA is RPM! stock C30A fuel cut is at 8000 rpm. once good I/H/E are selected, a good valve train that will allow it to go to 8500 or 9000 rpm should greatly enhance the power. there are very limited valve train selection for C30A/C32A though... which is why we (AKMEE) will be looking into producing them.

we already have tons of experience with chill casting Honda cams for B series and D series engines... and the same technology should work just fine for C30A.

han0355 · 10 January 2012

HBui39 said:
if smog isnt an issue, run test pipes too.

but yeah, lose weight and improve the gearing. either short gear or 6 speed. not sure where you intend to source the 4.55 gears... as the only options i can find now are NSX-R 4.23 or OS GIken 4.4. (but you gotta get an LSD with that)

My buddy has a 4.55 almost brand new (only dyno'd then taken off) sitting in his garage so I should be taking over it, sat in a NSX with 4.55 gear and its a completely different car lol

han0355 · 10 January 2012

whitebois said:
If you are going to change final drive you can shim the oem lsd and that will increase the % lockup as in the nsxr. Once you have it apart it is pretty cheap to do.

do you think the OS Giken 4.4 LSD is worth the money? i hear its 2k just the LSD along

han0355 · 10 January 2012

stuntman said:
Id highly recommend the OS Giken 4.40lsd. The lsd will improve handling and lap times and driveability and the 4.4 final drive will benefit acceleration everywhere. I agree with the JDM gear ratio or 6-speed.

Weight reduction is big. Spare tire, carbon nsxr wing and side intakes, seats, etc...

Lightweight clutch will help too. I have a slightly used one of the lightest clutches made for the nsx if your interested. Exedy twin disc carbon clutch.

Billy, would you recommend 4.55 Comptech final drive or the OS Giken 4.4 one with LSD (heard this combo cost alot more) for my local track?
This is my friend with his NSX (Ferrand, a.k.a NSXDreamer) on the track and he has Comptech 4.55 on the car, which one who you go with better c/p?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BERTy8ZcuaA
Thanks
George

GhettoRacer · 10 January 2012

http://fatboyraceworks.com/gears/

plug in your gearbox and FD ratio and you can figure it out if the gearing is right for you... Between 4.4 and 4.55, I'd say get the 4.55.

Better acceleration.

han0355 · 10 January 2012

GhettoRacer said:
http://fatboyraceworks.com/gears/

plug in your gearbox and FD ratio and you can figure it out if the gearing is right for you... Between 4.4 and 4.55, I'd say get the 4.55. Better acceleration.

Pretty handy site! Thanks! also keep me updated with your product, i'm interested :biggrin:, it doesn't have to take the engine apart though right?

AutoVation · 10 January 2012

tbnsxt said:
Although weight reduction is a good thing, I would not remove anything fron the car that will jeopardize your safety. The spare tire and bracket actually is a major factor in frontal impact safety. If you remove them you are decreasing your frontal impact strength. Although many people including myself run without it do keep in mind that your safety has been compromised.

Are you sure? If so, you better not get in an accident when you are driving on a spare! Does NHSTA allow this?

NetViper · 10 January 2012

I had the short gears and 4.55. I HATED it on the highway. it was too high RPM for the 5 speed. If you drive a lot on the highway, I wouldn't bother with the 4.55 or 4.44.

tbnsxt · 10 January 2012

AutoVation said:
Are you sure? If so, you better not get in an accident when you are driving on a spare! Does NHSTA allow this?

Well if you are driving on a spare HOPEFULY it is just back to your house, repair shop, ect. So you would not be driving for long. If you drive with out the spare in the car regularly you are out on the road and have a much grater time period when an accident could occur. (5-30 minutes vs all of the time).

There is a reason the spare is bright orange, just like the other things honda does not want you to remove, like the abs connectors.

how to get around 300+ rwhp NA?

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