I have a broken wheel stud. What to do?

[Prudeone]

Hello all!

I have had the car for 2 weeks now and wow it really is great. I have been trying to get the car into shape and discovered that at least one wheel stud on the driver right side is broken. I still have to check for any on the pasenger side. Black/Black 1991

I found the part number to replace it. 90113-SD4-902 How much of a job is this? Do I need a special tool to remove the nut from the hub assembly to replace? Will I need to get the car realigned when it is done? Is it just easier to have a dealership do this or is this an afternoon project at home?

Thanks,

Michael

 

[D'Ecosse]

Since you mention removing the nut I assume its the rear.
The biggest problem I found is in "breaking" the nut - the first advice is to do this with the wheel still in place with it still on the ground! You first need to bend out the locking tab. The nut requires a 36mm socket (make sure its a 6-point) & a long breaker bar. After you break it, then you should raise the car & remove wheel, brake caliper (should be possible to just move it out of the way w/o disconnecting the fluid supply)
Should be straight forward after that.
See here for details: http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf
(page 674 & 675) - (rear hub removal).


<A HREF="http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/front_hub.htm" TARGET=_blank> http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/front_hub.htm[/url] (for front hub removal)


http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm (replacing studs)

The other question you need to ask is why it is broken? Do you have after market wheels, spacers, or ???. If so you need to be sure you have adequate stud length protruding & if not, consider replacing ALL the studs with longer ones. Also, if aftermarket wheels, make sure you have the right size centering adapter ring installed in the wheel, that the appropriately shaped lug nuts are used for whatever wheel employed & be sure to use anti-seize on the studs.



[This message has been edited by D'Ecosse (edited 04 December 2002).]

 

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by Prudeone:
I found the part number to replace it. 90113-SD4-902 How much of a job is this?

You should be able to get the studs from any auto part store (I got mine from Monument)I would imagine cheaper than Acura.

Do I need a special tool to remove the nut from the hub assembly to replace?

Tool as per post above (if breaker bar doesn't work, may need pneumatic impact wrench)

Will I need to get the car realigned when it is done?

Car will not require re-alignment.

 

[DanO]

don't forget to re-torque the NUT to 270 lb-ft (i think - check the Service Manual). If it doesn't get that tight, then it may have hub problems down the road.

DanO

 

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by DanO:
don't forget to re-torque the NUT to 270 lb-ft (i think - check the Service Manual). If it doesn't get that tight, then it may have hub problems down the road.

DanO

242lb-ft per the manual
That is why it it so @#%$* hard to break the thing!!!!!!!!

 

[Prudeone]

Thanks for all the help!

The wheels that are currently on the car are OZ racing F1 plus 17 X 8 in front and 18 X 9 in the back. According to the previous owner the centering adapters are on the car already. I have another set of wheels that I belive were bought at the same time.

OZ racing three piece Futuras 17 X 8 in front and 18 X 9 in the back.

The Futura rear wheel has the following markings:

26 01 0 H01
9J X 18 H2E35

The Futura front wheel has the following markings:

11 80 7 H02
8J X 17 H2E48

The studs appear to short with the OZ F1 plus that are currently on the car. From what I can see they could easily be 4 to 5 mm longer to fit all the threads of the nuts that are currently on them. Where do I find longer studs? Also if I put the lighter Futuras on is there a possibility that longer studs would be too long? The previous owner said that the Futuras where machined not to need a centering adapter but a sticker on the rims themselves contadicts this.

When I talked to the previous owner he said that the centering rings for the OZ F1 plus rims are on the car and the Futura rims are machined to fit to hubs exactly. Does this make sense?

Also as far as the lug nuts themselves I would imagine that these depend on the type of seating that the rims themselves have so I may actually need two sets of lugs if they are diffent for each style of wheel.

Thanks so much,

Michael

P.S. I am going to call the OZ customer service line and ask about this now. I also need to order one of the rear rim pieces that is cracked.

 

[D'Ecosse]

The centering rings won't necessarily be "installed" on the car.
The NSX front hubs have 70mm diamter center ring, while the rears have a 64mm center ring - this means you need a differnt size adapter for the fronts vs rears (the wheels will almost certainly have the same size bore for front & rear, therefor would doubt if "they are on the car already")
For example, if you have a 73mm center bore on the wheels, you need 73/70 adapters for front wheels & 73/64's for the rears. These typically install on the wheels, not the hubs. You can get these at America's Tire incidentally, they're only a few $$$/set of 4. You just need to find out the specific center bore size for your Oz wheels (I tried to find from Oz site, but couldn't see it)
I think this is good indication of why your stud is broken & you should resolve by going to longer length. I would be surprised if 5mm longer stud would be too long for the second set of wheels - as long as they don't interfere with any center cap, it should be fine.

[This message has been edited by D'Ecosse (edited 04 December 2002).]

 

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by Prudeone:
Where do I find longer studs? Also if I put the lighter Futuras on is there a possibility that longer studs would be too long?

http://www.ecstuning.com/HR/appguides /app_search.cgi?make=Acura&qt=spacers&model=Integra%2C+Typ+R%2C+NSX+%28rear+axle%29&submit=Search%21

This might solve your dilemma on how to resolve for both wheels: if you buy the 5 mmm spacer kit, it comes with a set of longer studs. After you install those, use the spacers with the Futura's or not with the F1's. I doubt the 5mm will make much difference to your fender clearance. The only drawback with the 5 mm spacer is it will leave minimal center ring available on the hub for the wheel to center on. (I think you can probably live with the longer studs & the Futuras w/o the spacer- its not like you need the spacer for caliper clearance or whatever)
Also, I would anticpate the lugs being the same for both sets of wheels from same manufacturer - note, most aftermarket wheels have tapered conical lugs, vs round shaped for stock wheels.

[This message has been edited by D'Ecosse (edited 04 December 2002).]

 

[Lud]

Comptech also carries longer studs.

 

[NSEXTASY]

Send the car right to the dealer ...if you are asking for information on how to change the broken lug than you have little or no mechanical experiance and may be putting yourself and the lives of others in danger.This is not a job for the weekend warrior!

 

[ncdogdoc]

Dali Racing has two different sizes of longer studs, and also sells the H&R spacers with the longer studs included. Mark has great prices on this sort of thing. http://www.daliracing.com/

------------------
Gary Yates
1995 Red/Tan
1992 White/Black
2002 Red and White Cooper S

 

[DanO]

Originally posted by D'Ecosse:
242lb-ft per the manual
That is why it it so @#%$* hard to break the thing!!!!!!!!

Oh, yea I forgot...the manual also says to replace the nut (the BIG nut) as well as the four nuts that hold the hub on with new nuts.

I would plan on replacing the BIG nut, the four hub nuts are up to you. My guess is the dealer wouldn’t replace any of the nuts but if you do it DIY then you can be anal and do EXACTLY what the Service Manual says.

Good Luck,
DanO

 

[DanO]

Originally posted by NSEXTASY:
Send the car right to the dealer ...if you are asking for information on how to change the broken lug than you have little or no mechanical experiance and may be putting yourself and the lives of others in danger.This is not a job for the weekend warrior!

This is good advice, especially for the rear hub. The front hub is a piece of cake but the rear is a different story. Getting the rear axle nut off is a real pain in the arss and you can end up doing trouble to yourself or your car (I’ve totally screwed up an axel doing it…long story) without the proper tools. These tools will end up costing real cash (like a ¾” breaker bar and socket ¾” 36mm socket or a real ¾” impact wrench and impact socket—my ¾” 36mm impact socket cost $60). Anyway, if you take it to a dealer, make sure they replace the nut with a new one and torque it to the value in the manual and stake it down.

.02
DanO