Ignition key replacement

[Chris Yewdall]

Reading through the FAQs it seems as if my ignition key has failed. As a temporary fix I was thinking of squirting Chemtool contact cleaner into it, but I guess replacement is imminent.

Couple of questions:
Is the NSX Ignition Key assembly common to any other Acura/Honda model or are we in for NSX-only pricing? I read in the FAQs that Accords have a similar failure

Looking at the drivers side bolster, are there any hints on how to remove the footwell padding and trim panels in order to get access to the switch for removal?

Finally, I assume once I buy a new ignition assembly that there will then be two keys, one to open the car and a second to start it with as the barrels will no longer match the door locks. Any idea whether matched ignition assembies can be specially ordered?

Thanks
Chris 91 NXS Black on Black auto 90K miles

 

[EIFFEL]

Do you mean ignition switch? or ignition lock cylinder? 2 different parts and ignition lock assembly will come with ignition switch(electrical portion) so you may be replacing more than necessary.

 

[Chris Yewdall]

Re: Ignition barrel vs switch

Thanks
I hadn't realized the assembly comes in two distinct parts (haven't delved into the footwell to take a closer look as yet). Looking at the Troubleshooting section the reference is to the ignition switch, so I guess its that part alone, not the key barrel I need to replace

Thanks

Chris

 

[drew]

The switch is extremely easy to service and clean:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41237



Don't have to remove the bolster. Just the undercover and a 6mm or phillips screwdriver. The whole job is in the 10 minute range.

Drew

 

[Chris Yewdall]

Drew, thanks very much for that. While I was waiting for the switch and other parts (antenna mast) to arrive, I tackled the a/c and cooling systems on my Chevy 1 ton this weekend and now I have ice cold air and a truck that runs at normal whatever hill I'm driving up! While there's a big difference between the work space available around the Chevy and the NSX, the successful results have got me on a roll!

In preparation for the arrival of the switch, I recharged the battery using the on-board battery charger in the spare wheel well and noticed this morning that the various warning lights on the dash only illuminate when the key is engaged in the spring loaded starting position (the key position that engages the starter motor). When I return the key back to the normal 'running' position the lights aren't illuminated, and its the same when I am turning the key towards the starting position. Is this all 'classic' ignition switch stuff?

The next jobs will be rebuilding the antenna mast and sending the Bose amps off to Texas to have them repaired once I have it running again!

Thanks
Chris

 

[drew]

When I return the key back to the normal 'running' position the lights aren't illuminated, and its the same when I am turning the key towards the starting position. Is this all 'classic' ignition switch stuff?

Classic symptoms...

Meanwhile, send your amps to BrianK

Drew
/just consider how easy the NSX is to "hotwire" if you had a spare switch....30-60 seconds and you have a working/driving NSX (at least those without the transponder key).

 

[Chris Yewdall]

Re: Ignition key fixed!

Drew

Your explanation of how to dismantle the switch was on the money. I took the two screws out of the trim panel, unplugged the courtesy light wiring and then used a 6mm socket to unscrew the switch from the back of the ignition key assembly.
Managed to pry the two halves apart using a couple of small electrical screwdrivers and hey presto, grimy contacts inside the switch. Went to Home Depot (it was 9:45pm) and bought some electrical contact degreaser for $6, sprayed it on, wiped it off and put it all back together. Started on the first turn. I'll take it apart again at the weekend and add some dielectric grease to the contacts, but my guess is that many NSX owners have paid a lot of hard earned cash to dealers for replacement ignition switches when all they needed was a quick 15 minute rebuild. All I have to do now is figure out how to return the $65 replacement that I bought late last week that hasn't actually arrived in the mail yet!
I spoke to Daryl Willman at Willman Electronics yesterday and bought three new amps for the car. He no longer offers the rebuild service and instead offers a replacement for $200 per amp. When you return your old amps to him, he refunds a core charge of $50 per amp, leaving the cost of a new amp at $150 including shipping. He was very helpful and is so confident of the performance of these upgraded models that he offered a lifetime warranty.
By the weekend, I should have my stereo working again and the electric radio rebuilt.
Chris
91 NSX Black/black auto

 

[Briank]

Re: Ignition key fixed!

When you return your old amps to him, he refunds a core charge of $50 per amp, leaving the cost of a new amp at $150 including shipping. He was very helpful and is so confident of the performance of these upgraded models that he offered a lifetime warranty.

Willman is selling repairs on Ebay for $80 + $10, but their web site says they don't do repairs, looks like a bait and switch deal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1991-and-newer-...oryZ3292QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[JDMB20TDA]

Anyone have a write up on the ignition switch removal? The link I had is now dead

 

[Old Guy]

Just the actual ignition switch which is mounted on the back of the lock cylinder mechanism? If so, technically easy; but, awkward. All you need to do is remove the dashboard lower panel (driver's side footwell) - 2 screws attach it along the front edge at the knee bolster. Squeeze down in there and look up and you should be able to see the switch. It is attached to the back of the lock cylinder mechanism with 2 screws. Make sure the ignition lock mechanism is turned to the 0 position. Disconnect the 7 pin electrical connector, remove the two screws (easier said than done) and pull the switch off the lock cylinder mechanism.

Removing the actual lock mechanism is a next level in terms of complexity and effort.

 

[JDMB20TDA]

thank you!
It wasn't a bad job, although my back isn't too pleased today. Here's what the hack of a previous owner put together. No solder, no heat shrink, just good quality work.

 

[Honcho]

View attachment 179051thank you!
It wasn't a bad job, although my back isn't too pleased today. Here's what the hack of a previous owner put together. No solder, no heat shrink, just good quality work.

That's one of the worst I've ever seen. Fire risk too.

 

[Old Guy]

You have to love those after market security system installations. With 4 Tee taps in a row and half-ass crimp work I thought mine was the preemo bodge.



However, I think yours is the winner. Clearly somebody thought the value of electrical insulation was way oversold.

 

[NSXdude]

Anyone have a write up on the ignition switch removal? The link I had is now dead

Did you have any issues changing out that ignition switch? I took off that bottom tray under dash but not sure where to find this switch? Is it at the end of the long ignition assembly or by where the key goes in? There’s no room down there to see much of anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Old Guy]

It is on the back end of the lock cylinder / column locking assembly.


Because of the limited space, you will need a very 'stubby' screwdriver to remove the attachment screws. I used a mini ratchet / bit wrench like the following to extract the screws - much lower profile than even a stubby screwdriver.

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca