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In Malaysia doing Auto Manual Conversion !!

Joined
2 August 2007
Messages
763
Location
Queensland Australia
Half way through an epic conversion, arrived in Singapore on Monday, crossed the border and got right to it. I shipped all components and tools in advance. Honestly I have never sweated so much in my life, my god 70% humidity and hot as hell. My friend had to buy a portable A/C unit to stop me from passing out, seriously just about every bolt removal I have to stand in front of the A/C for a minute. Making good progress though and my hosts are wonderful people, despite me whinning about the heat and getting sick a bit :biggrin:

Anyway I'll keep a log of sorts for this, and update on Mods. We hope to have a track day next week after completion .

Like my home made Transmission jack ?? :smile:

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Hi I am from Malaysia. If you need any help, PM me.
 
Having done the same conversion myself, here are some tips I wish someone gave me while I was doing it:
- the intermediate shaft is not the same for the AT gearbox while the driveshafts are the same
- the cams and ECU's are different
- incredibly the most difficult and annoying part for me was to fit the clutch line! You need to remove the fuel tank just to conect 2 sections of that line, remove the seat just to fit it under the carpet and of course fit that small clutch master next to the break booster! Just to bleed all that line took me hours as the clutch master has a very low output volume! Mine was LHD perhaps a RHD car is different
At the end you won't regret all the work, personally I would do it again if I had an auto nsx!
Good luck
 
- incredibly the most difficult and annoying part for me was to fit the clutch line! You need to remove the fuel tank just to conect 2 sections of that line, remove the seat just to fit it under the carpet and of course fit that small clutch master next to the break booster! Just to bleed all that line took me hours as the clutch master has a very low output volume!
Good luck

I just used a teflon braided line through the centre, easy and works just fine !
 
All finished and everything works great, all of the car's functionality is fine except for a missing EPS amp which I sending over and this car will be perfect.

Finished up with a track day (had the whole track to ourselves) :tongue: However we were cut short with a burst water hose. Being replaced with silicon as speak .

Great trip and great outcome all round. And most of all great people, awesome hospitality :smile:

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I'm on long service leave for many months, bored and a great opportunity to convert as many Autos as possible in places that don't have the luxury of just buying a Manual car. The transformation is just night and day, very satisfying job :wink:
 
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I was lucky enough to meet a madman travelled six thousand km to do the conversion for me.
Good job buddy, I am sorry for the scrapes, bruises, cuts and bumps on you arms.
Without changing MT ECU, MT TCS ECU and MT Cruise Control ECU, I don’t really know what you had done on auto ECU, but all functions work perfectly. That would be 100% after I receive from you the EPS amp that missing when I got this car.
Differences between before and after are huge, rev is much faster and all the way to 8,000 rpm, throttle response and power delivery are much better.
I’m curious how much hp difference between stock auto chip and Prospeed stage 3. I will put it on dyno when I’m free. :wink:
 
I was lucky enough to meet a madman travelled six thousand km to do the conversion for me.
Good job buddy, I am sorry for the scrapes, bruises, cuts and bumps on you arms.
Without changing MT ECU, MT TCS ECU and MT Cruise Control ECU, I don’t really know what you had done on auto ECU, but all functions work perfectly. That would be 100% after I receive from you the EPS amp that missing when I got this car.
Differences between before and after are huge, rev is much faster and all the way to 8,000 rpm, throttle response and power delivery are much better.
I’m curious how much hp difference between stock auto chip and Prospeed stage 3. I will put it on dyno when I’m free. :wink:

Ha thanks Tony , The cuts and bruises are just a given as it is a horrible big job to do, I'm glad your happy with it :)

BTW the whole Auto engine exhaust cam profile thing is totally overrated, I think it would make 5 +- Hp difference if any on the dyno, Such a non issue !!
 
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It was a pretty fun track there in Johor despite a rough tarmac. Taking it easy though as the stock brakes faded fast and fault finding problems. Would like to take my car there as the tracks here suck !! Sorry for the phone vision :cool:

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We are the only ones on the track. :rolleyes:

Not as good as Sepang track at KL but cheap for practise and test the car.



It was a pretty fun track there in Johor despite a rough tarmac. Taking it easy though as the stock brakes faded fast and fault finding problems. Would like to take my car there as the tracks here suck !! Sorry for the phone vision :cool:

<IFRAME height=315 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ejWm2zrsZ-4" frameBorder=0 width=420 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>
 
Good job buddy, I am sorry for the scrapes, bruises, cuts and bumps on you arms.

Yeah well next time you get the heavy set Chinese massage girls. I tried to tell you no matter how strong they are, you can't massage bruises out :biggrin:



nice conversion...wish to do the same

Pm sent
 
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I will give you guys one piece of important advice insofar as the ECU is concerned. All 91-94 NSX ECUs have both automatic transmission and manual transmission programming on the the chip from the factory. There is a resistor, labeled R4 that is located in the far upper left quadrant that controls which programming is currently active. It's presence indicates an A/T and absence M/T. Therefore if the car is being converted from automatic all that is needed is to simply clip R4 off of the board. I will try to write up a quick DIY with a picture showing exactly what to clip.

-Matt
 
I will give you guys one piece of important advice insofar as the ECU is concerned. All 91-94 NSX ECUs have both automatic transmission and manual transmission programming on the the chip from the factory. There is a resistor, labeled R4 that is located in the far upper left quadrant that controls which programming is currently active. It's presence indicates an A/T and absence M/T. Therefore if the car is being converted from automatic all that is needed is to simply clip R4 off of the board. I will try to write up a quick DIY with a picture showing exactly what to clip.

-Matt
Awesome info as always Matt!
Does raise a question though, are the ECU's pre tuned for the different camshafts and ignition & fuel maps?

Do the manual ECU have the AT control board?
 
Awesome info as always Matt!
Does raise a question though, are the ECU's pre tuned for the different camshafts and ignition & fuel maps?

Do the manual ECU have the AT control board?

Thats a good question, I know there are multiple maps according to tuner pro, Sr5guy should be able to shed some light .

The Auto ECU's need to be retained and interlocks defeated for power steering, TCS Cruise to work as per norm, otherwise its a full engine and interior harness and MT module change. From what I can gather the Resistor tells the ECU its an MT car changes maps and up's the rev limit ? However I installed a prospeed ECU to my Auto car with no other mod and the Rev limit changed to 8k ??
 
The rev limiter is set in the chip just as the fuel map and timing.
That's what the piggyback chips change.

What i'd like to know is if that ECU has two complete maps and timing charts one AT one MT.

And why has no one else noticed this whilst chipping the ecu map as they'd see duplicate files?
Or is the resistor controlling a redundancy system? reverting it back to MT mode thus eliminating AT CCU and AT related control protocol, thus becoming MT.
But still running AT fuel, timing and V-Tec maps?

Also where are the shift input lines in the ECU? (kick down & lock up)
I've been playing around with the idea of re wiring a Legend trough it's stereo control wires in the clockspring so that you can run a paddle shifter trough the OE wires.
Giving lock up, and kickdown messages to the ECU reverting it in to manual control like on the 94-05 F-Matics
 
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The rev limiter is set in the chip just as the fuel map and timing.
That's what the piggyback chips change

I know this, but this isn't a piggyback. Its a standard OBD1 27C256 90nS EEprom . All maps in this particular tune are referenced to 8k RPM.

And yes I've just confirmed there are multiple tunes for cam profile etc

Who want's some Hex ranges while everyone is giving out info :rolleyes: NSX NA1 OBD-1 will soon be open source , I'm bored enough .
 
interesting, so it's a universal/modular approach by Honda (more economical)
Now the real trick is to harness that power in making the ECU switch between two performance tunes, via a switch on R4

2 tunes but same engine ? or 2 turbo setups . street and track , Only the Standard ECU can't see boost ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, YET
 
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