Just installed my exhaust...CAR WONT START!

Joined
15 January 2007
Messages
188
Location
Boston, MA
Yesterday, i installed my Taitec GT102. After finishing up, I went to start the car to hear what it sounds like while still on the lift. Sounds great, ok. Left it running while I lowered the lift. I didnt notice it had stalled out by the time it was on the ground.

I then went to restart the car and it took a few minutes. Hard cranking, but did not turn over. I finally got it to start but the idle was very low and stalled out again. Restarted the car again and got it to run, pressed the accelerator to make sure it didnt stall and it ran great.

I moved the car and parked it for about an hour and a half, then I pulled it out of the shop. No problems. I parked the car out front of work while I cleaned up and punched out, by the time I came back out, it had stalled again. It restarted fine so I dismissed anything being wrong. Perhaps the ECU was getting readjust from the reduce backpressure (longshot)?

I went on with my day, car started and drove flawlessly. Went out this morning and found it started just fine, further establishing to me that it was a temporary failure or some type of relearning curve for the car.

After I came back from breakfast, the car just kept cranking. I checked all the fuses and everything was fine. I tried a jump start just to make sure I was getting enough juice. Still nothing.

I am now stuck at home with no real tools to even pull a spark plug.

Is there anything underneath the car where an installation of an exhaust can cause a problme like this? Pinched hoses? Sensors underneath the car that I could have damaged? Harnesses there I could have disrupted?

I'm stuck at home and the car is too low to be towed. Suggestions?

thanks

- j
 
I can't think of anything that should have been touched and that could cause a no-start. I guess it's possible they damaged an O2 harness while working under there, but even a broken O2 harness wouldn't cause a car to not start AFAIK. It may be a fluke, entirely unrelated. Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key to "ON"?
 
I am not sure if this is advice, but I know when I have done things to my Lex (Yes, I know it is not the NSX.) I usually take off the positive for the battery and let it stand for about 10-15 min then it will re-set the ECU.

Just a thought, but I am sure that someone might have a better idea what is happening.

Good luck.... :smile:
 
I had a simliar situation about 6 months ago, most searches pointed at a bad ground connection, or a bad main relay - I spent several hours checking my ground lines (they were fine), I replaced the main relay, and still nothing. Finally I went ahead and replaced the starter with a rebuilt unit from science of speed - the car has been flawless since.

The car drove fine until one day it would not start. It took some cranking, and finally after a few attempts it would start, this happened on and off for about 2 weeks before it finally gave out, and wouldn't start after several minutes. I left the car for a few hours, came back, and was able to get it started to drive to Niguel Motors, to replace the starter.
 
Ive already tried reestting the car by 1. removing the clock fuse and 2. disconnecting the battery - nothing.

I dont believe its a starter because it cranks really hard and fast. just wont turn over.

I was very careful not to even touch the o2 sensors or the harness. i dont think that would cause the car not to start at all either.

I tried to take a look at the main relay. looked in the repair manual (for a 91) and found nothing back there that looks like the picture.

Can someone tell me which is the main relay? it looks like there might be 2 seperate ones. theres one right behind the driver seat clicks when the ignition is on the on position. there is also one right behind the passenger side. that one does not click when on the on position. i looked at the part numbers on both relays and they were the same. so i tried swapping them and still the same condition.

Are the main relays the ones i circled in the pics? the repair manual says there is a main relay, but there are actually two in them. is it possible that a 1998 had the main relays seperated?

:confused:
 

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Its not either one circled, Its the first to the left of the one thats circled

ok, yeah i was just browsing through the repair manual and found the one behind the drivers seat was the fuel pump relay.

so i did swap the two and still got nothing. they both had the exact numbers on them so i thought it would be okay.

again, the fuel pump relay clicks whith the ignition on. the other relay does not. when i swapped them, it did the same.

any more suggestions?
 
I just briefly read through that link and all the other links from those posts.

i definately dont have a main relay that looks like that in the location.

the only thing that is there is a relay that is exactly like the fuel pump relay.
 
It seems the relay isnt in the same location as a 91, Still looks as though its the first relay to the left of your circled right relay, this is starting to sound confusing...
 
tell me about it!!!

ill try to take a better pic tonight of the passenger side. hopefully that will clear things up.
 
I just briefly read through that link and all the other links from those posts.

i definately dont have a main relay that looks like that in the location.

the only thing that is there is a relay that is exactly like the fuel pump relay.

I think on the later cars it may be on the left side of the ECU instead of the right.

Link
 
When you turn the key to the "on" position you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds along with the "click".

I seem to remember that the later cars had the main relay in another spot, not behind the drivers shoulder. I can't remember exactly where, but I think it's further to the right side and lower.
 
I actually hear two clicks when turning the key. One from the Fuel pump relay and another from the ECU side. The other relay that looks like the fuel pump relay makes no noise.

I will take another look tonight. The Main relay has got to be somewhere.
 
I just checked my 91, the box with the cable looped over it is your main relay.


The label on that one says retractor unit. Im thinking its on the other side of the ECU since the second clicking noise is coming from that area. Ill have to check when I get home.
 
On another note, I still have my back panel off because I replaced the main relay "just in case" and if your 98 is the same as my 91 then it actually says: "Relay assy. Main" and under it big bold numbers 0101. Hope this helps identify it. :smile:
 
FIXED - temporarily....

I located the Main relay. On my 1998, it is on the passenger side next to the ECU.

After locating it, I went through the service repair manual diag with one of my techs at work. Tested the resistor, relay, and fuel pump. We were finding that the fuel pump was not getting any juice with the ignition on. Nothing at the resistor and full power and ground at the relay.

After about an hour, I decided to plug the relay back in and viola!, it started. I think by tinkering with the relay itself, something must have popped back into place and it works. I will go ahead now and order a new one.

For the time being, i will drive with no rear panels.

Thanks everyone for chiming in!

- J
 
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