I have a better driver that fits in the factory sub box, goes lower, is much more articulate, and is just as loud. Needs a decent amp though.... I don't know why he has to keep the HU if he is going to the lengths he is in removing weight. It's probably 8 pounds. I'd just use my phone.
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Midnight_Raven's Build
- Thread starter Midnight_Raven
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The door speaker are MB Quarts and the factory box that are on the doors are gone as well. The reason the stereo system isn't going but the carpet is because I'm trying to remove as much "free" weight but still keep some of my luxury features. Maybe down the road I'll remove them but for now I want to see how it is with the louder road noise. I think the sub is still a bose driver. I'm running off the deck power, no external amp in my current setup.
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The steering wheel change will make quite a difference. I have just changed to a Momo Tuner and the old parts are considerably heavier and look very dated compared to the NSXR wheel and hub.
My personal weight loss programme has shed 7lb so far (no alcohol since 30th December) it's amazing what a difference a dry January can make.
My personal weight loss programme has shed 7lb so far (no alcohol since 30th December) it's amazing what a difference a dry January can make.
laurent1475,
Sorry I don't have any more videos of how my car sounds like with the new exhaust. I'll probably try to get some more audio clips some time in the late spring. I kind of regret not saving the in cabin recordings I had, because it would of been a good way to compare how much louder the inside of the cabin gets without all this sound insulation I removed.
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So update with my progress for the week:
It's been pretty cold lately so I haven't done much work during the week but nevertheless I did put some days in. Instead of painting the driver side black then moving over to the passenger side I decided I'll paint both floors at the same time when it's a little warmer so I started to do work on the passenger side. I removed the passenger side carpet and modified it like I did to the driver side. I removed about 6 lbs from that. I then removed the tar from the floor and removed 4 lbs from that. So far that's 10 lbs from the floor alone. I still need to finish removed as much tar as possible from the floor to give it a cleaner appearance. I was able to successfully complete the mid section as you will see in the picture. The front and rear section still needs work.
On a side note my Type-R chassis reinforcement bars arrived Monday this week as well as my DF air intake duct. I'll probably install those once I'm done with the interior.
Here is the picture of the progress so far.
I did one more thing this week actually I started the car up and let it run for a little to help charge the battery up again. During this I checked out how loud the motor sounds inside the cabin with windows rolled up compared to before. I'll be quite honest as of now it doesn't sound that much louder than stock, maybe that's because it's at idle but so far so good.
So far I've removed 12lbs for the rear firewall mat + 5lbs for the driver side tar + 6lbs from driver side carpet + 6 lbs form passenger side carpet + 4 lbs for passenger side tar + 3lb of miscellaneous items I've removed = total of 36 lbs so far. I still probably have about 1 more lb to go for tar on the driver side and maybe another lb or two if I can find other useless items to remove.
It's been pretty cold lately so I haven't done much work during the week but nevertheless I did put some days in. Instead of painting the driver side black then moving over to the passenger side I decided I'll paint both floors at the same time when it's a little warmer so I started to do work on the passenger side. I removed the passenger side carpet and modified it like I did to the driver side. I removed about 6 lbs from that. I then removed the tar from the floor and removed 4 lbs from that. So far that's 10 lbs from the floor alone. I still need to finish removed as much tar as possible from the floor to give it a cleaner appearance. I was able to successfully complete the mid section as you will see in the picture. The front and rear section still needs work.
On a side note my Type-R chassis reinforcement bars arrived Monday this week as well as my DF air intake duct. I'll probably install those once I'm done with the interior.
Here is the picture of the progress so far.
I did one more thing this week actually I started the car up and let it run for a little to help charge the battery up again. During this I checked out how loud the motor sounds inside the cabin with windows rolled up compared to before. I'll be quite honest as of now it doesn't sound that much louder than stock, maybe that's because it's at idle but so far so good.
So far I've removed 12lbs for the rear firewall mat + 5lbs for the driver side tar + 6lbs from driver side carpet + 6 lbs form passenger side carpet + 4 lbs for passenger side tar + 3lb of miscellaneous items I've removed = total of 36 lbs so far. I still probably have about 1 more lb to go for tar on the driver side and maybe another lb or two if I can find other useless items to remove.
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I was wondering about the effect on acoustics from removing so much sound deadening material. It will be interesting to compare it to a stock car after the project is completed. Everything looks great so far, and you're probably learning a lot about the NSX in the process.
Update:
So this past weekend and yesterday I worked some more on the NSX. I relocated the yellow harness from the passenger side and removed one of the brackets down there. I also cleaned up more tar specks off the floor and then primed and painted the driver side. After seeing how the paint was looking after one day of drying I was not happy with the results. It looked like s**t because I don't know what I'm doing lol. So today I used some goof off and removed the paint and primer on both sides. I think I'm going to abandon the idea of painting my floor and go with the bare floor look and use floor mats. I'm just going to spend more time removing whatever tar and residue is left off the floor this week and then this weekend put everything in the interior back together. It's not going to look pretty but a good excuse to do so is that the car will probably be 1-2lbs lighter without a painted floor. I'll post some pictures once I'm done with the inside.
So this past weekend and yesterday I worked some more on the NSX. I relocated the yellow harness from the passenger side and removed one of the brackets down there. I also cleaned up more tar specks off the floor and then primed and painted the driver side. After seeing how the paint was looking after one day of drying I was not happy with the results. It looked like s**t because I don't know what I'm doing lol. So today I used some goof off and removed the paint and primer on both sides. I think I'm going to abandon the idea of painting my floor and go with the bare floor look and use floor mats. I'm just going to spend more time removing whatever tar and residue is left off the floor this week and then this weekend put everything in the interior back together. It's not going to look pretty but a good excuse to do so is that the car will probably be 1-2lbs lighter without a painted floor. I'll post some pictures once I'm done with the inside.
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Update:
So today I finished up with the interior of the car. I took some pictures to show you how it looks now. Additionally I also took the car out to charge up the batteries and to put some new gas in the car. I have to say now that I have driven it there are two things I noticed. 1) You can now hear every peppble/sand/dirt/etc that your tires kick up onto the body of the car at low speeds. I don't find this annoying at all because for the most part you don't really notice it once you're really moving. 2) The engine cabin noise from idle-2000rpm sounds the same to me. Not much louder at that range but once I hit give it some gas to 3000rpm+ the engine noise is much more audible than before. I actually love it, imo, it makes the experience more special like it should be because the engine sounds so raw and not muffled. I literally had a big smile on my face when I was driving I think this is one of the best things I've done to my car as of yet. Also a cool thing is when you turn on the car you can really hear the air being sucked into the engine. In regards to the sound system I'm still able to hear it but obviously it needs to be a little louder to overcome the engine noise.
Here are the pictures of the car as it sits now:
Picture of the driver side.
Picture showing what is exposed of the body behind the seats.
Picture showing what is exposed of the body to the side of the seats.
Picture showing the seats and rear firewall from a hunched over height. (You can't see anything has been changed)
Picture showing passenger side.
This picture is taken from right where the seat cushion is. Meaning a passenger wouldn't even see anything at their sitting height.
Picture of the NSX. Just washed it since it was nice and warm out today.
Next project is to remove the engine bay fan and then install my new parts (Type-R upper and lower reinforcement bars + Downforce air scoop)
So today I finished up with the interior of the car. I took some pictures to show you how it looks now. Additionally I also took the car out to charge up the batteries and to put some new gas in the car. I have to say now that I have driven it there are two things I noticed. 1) You can now hear every peppble/sand/dirt/etc that your tires kick up onto the body of the car at low speeds. I don't find this annoying at all because for the most part you don't really notice it once you're really moving. 2) The engine cabin noise from idle-2000rpm sounds the same to me. Not much louder at that range but once I hit give it some gas to 3000rpm+ the engine noise is much more audible than before. I actually love it, imo, it makes the experience more special like it should be because the engine sounds so raw and not muffled. I literally had a big smile on my face when I was driving I think this is one of the best things I've done to my car as of yet. Also a cool thing is when you turn on the car you can really hear the air being sucked into the engine. In regards to the sound system I'm still able to hear it but obviously it needs to be a little louder to overcome the engine noise.
Here are the pictures of the car as it sits now:
Picture of the driver side.
Picture showing what is exposed of the body behind the seats.
Picture showing what is exposed of the body to the side of the seats.
Picture showing the seats and rear firewall from a hunched over height. (You can't see anything has been changed)
Picture showing passenger side.
This picture is taken from right where the seat cushion is. Meaning a passenger wouldn't even see anything at their sitting height.
Picture of the NSX. Just washed it since it was nice and warm out today.
Next project is to remove the engine bay fan and then install my new parts (Type-R upper and lower reinforcement bars + Downforce air scoop)
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Clever man. You would have to look very hard to notice the lack of carpet. There is something to be said for getting more of the raw experience of the engine and road noise. Looking forward to seeing what comes next
Dave, when the weather warms up we should meet up this spring. I can show you and let you hear the difference yourself.
So today I tried to install my downforce air scoop. Should of been at most a 1 hour job.... well nope not the case for me. I'll admit I'm taking my time as to not damage anything but then Im having a hard time getting this bracket to line up. I think to myself maybe I haven't pushed it in far enough since the instructions tell me to push in firmly. I'm going at it for like a hour and then realize something must not be right. I look at the top bracket that doesn't line up and compare it to the instruction manual and it's wrong! It appears that this might be a leftover from a batch that had bad brackets. Now I need to wait for my brackets to arrive....
I guess I'll move on to the reinforcement bars in the meantime.
So today I tried to install my downforce air scoop. Should of been at most a 1 hour job.... well nope not the case for me. I'll admit I'm taking my time as to not damage anything but then Im having a hard time getting this bracket to line up. I think to myself maybe I haven't pushed it in far enough since the instructions tell me to push in firmly. I'm going at it for like a hour and then realize something must not be right. I look at the top bracket that doesn't line up and compare it to the instruction manual and it's wrong! It appears that this might be a leftover from a batch that had bad brackets. Now I need to wait for my brackets to arrive....
I guess I'll move on to the reinforcement bars in the meantime.
Dave I already bought my Type-R reinforcement bars. lol.
Forgot to mention I also removed the fan from the engine bay and some of the random brackets in that area. I was able to remove 3.5 lbs in total. As of yesterday I got near my goal of 40 lbs of removal 38.5lbs. I'm now contemplating removing tar out of wheel wells since that is also a Type-R weight saving feature as well which would put me over 40lbs removed I believe. I know the underbody is also stripped of tar on Type-Rs but not sure I'm motivated enough to do the entire bottom of the car either lol.
Here is how it breaks down:
Stock NSX Stock Weight 3010lbs (Not sure if this is correct I've read it could also be 2985lbs as well)
Trunk tools.......................................15 lbs removed
trunk carpet......................................4 lbs removed
Comptech headers.............................10 lbs removed
Comptech Exhaust...............................6lbs removed (I think I just remember that my Comptech exhaust weighed 38lbs compared to 44lbs from stock)
Spare Tire........................................31.6 lbs removed
Spare Tire Bracket.............................2.4 lbs removed
CD changer + head unit......................4 lbs removed
Engine Cover....................................15.4 lbs removed
Firewall insulation mat.......................12.6 lbs removed
Driver side tar insulation.....................4.2 lbs removed
Passenger side insulation....................4.2 lbs removed
Driver side carpet...............................6 lbs removed
Passenger side carpet.........................6 lbs removed
Center speaker + sub amp + other.......2 lbs removed
KW V3..............................................3 lbs removed (Stock units 10.6lbs-F 12.4lbs-R with no top hats. Looks like KWV3 with top hats are 11.5lbs. I'm guess 3 lbs savings)
Engine fan + brackets........................3.5 lbs removed
Total Weight removed.........................129.9 lbs
Weight added:
Volks RE30s 17x8-F / 18x9.5-R............. 3.6lbs (weight is much lighter in the front but rears are slightly heavier than stock)
Type-R bars..........................................2lbs
Total weight added..............................5.6lbs
New Curb Weight................................2885.7 lbs
Forgot to mention I also removed the fan from the engine bay and some of the random brackets in that area. I was able to remove 3.5 lbs in total. As of yesterday I got near my goal of 40 lbs of removal 38.5lbs. I'm now contemplating removing tar out of wheel wells since that is also a Type-R weight saving feature as well which would put me over 40lbs removed I believe. I know the underbody is also stripped of tar on Type-Rs but not sure I'm motivated enough to do the entire bottom of the car either lol.
Here is how it breaks down:
Stock NSX Stock Weight 3010lbs (Not sure if this is correct I've read it could also be 2985lbs as well)
Trunk tools.......................................15 lbs removed
trunk carpet......................................4 lbs removed
Comptech headers.............................10 lbs removed
Comptech Exhaust...............................6lbs removed (I think I just remember that my Comptech exhaust weighed 38lbs compared to 44lbs from stock)
Spare Tire........................................31.6 lbs removed
Spare Tire Bracket.............................2.4 lbs removed
CD changer + head unit......................4 lbs removed
Engine Cover....................................15.4 lbs removed
Firewall insulation mat.......................12.6 lbs removed
Driver side tar insulation.....................4.2 lbs removed
Passenger side insulation....................4.2 lbs removed
Driver side carpet...............................6 lbs removed
Passenger side carpet.........................6 lbs removed
Center speaker + sub amp + other.......2 lbs removed
KW V3..............................................3 lbs removed (Stock units 10.6lbs-F 12.4lbs-R with no top hats. Looks like KWV3 with top hats are 11.5lbs. I'm guess 3 lbs savings)
Engine fan + brackets........................3.5 lbs removed
Total Weight removed.........................129.9 lbs
Weight added:
Volks RE30s 17x8-F / 18x9.5-R............. 3.6lbs (weight is much lighter in the front but rears are slightly heavier than stock)
Type-R bars..........................................2lbs
Total weight added..............................5.6lbs
New Curb Weight................................2885.7 lbs
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Update: I finally finished installing my Type-R chassis reinforcement bars and the downforce air scoop. I didn't have a vice to bend the bracket but I did have a hammer... so I just hammered the bracket until it was bent in the right direction. Looks beat up now but it was the only way to finish it up. The Type-R bars went in good with no real issues. .As of right now I've lost motivation to keep stripping tar off the car lol. Maybe I'll do it the year I decide to repaint the car and save the work for the guys with sandblasters lol.
I decided to take the NSX out and try to record some audio of the cabin noise without sound insulation. End result kind of sucks because the vibrations of the car was making my phone make some weird ticking noises. Only the 2nd half of my 16min long recording is decent enough to share. If someone who has a Motorola Droid Razr with either a stock exhaust or a Comptech USA exhaust doesn't mind recording cabin noise and sending me their video then I can make a direct comparison video for you guys to hear. Or would you all rather I just upload what I got and not make a comparison video?
So my next project is the windows. My windows are slow and the passenger side has really slowed down as of lately (Probably because of the cold). So I'll have to buy some of that special honda grease, take my door panels off again, clean and regrease the window rails. I'm a little nervous about this one because it sounds like sometime cleaning the rails work and at other times it doesn't.
I decided to take the NSX out and try to record some audio of the cabin noise without sound insulation. End result kind of sucks because the vibrations of the car was making my phone make some weird ticking noises. Only the 2nd half of my 16min long recording is decent enough to share. If someone who has a Motorola Droid Razr with either a stock exhaust or a Comptech USA exhaust doesn't mind recording cabin noise and sending me their video then I can make a direct comparison video for you guys to hear. Or would you all rather I just upload what I got and not make a comparison video?
So my next project is the windows. My windows are slow and the passenger side has really slowed down as of lately (Probably because of the cold). So I'll have to buy some of that special honda grease, take my door panels off again, clean and regrease the window rails. I'm a little nervous about this one because it sounds like sometime cleaning the rails work and at other times it doesn't.
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I got around to working on the windows this week. I attempted to fix my slow/binding window issue by cleaning the guides and re-lubricating them with Honda's special green grease while still inside the door. I spent about 2-3 hours on the passenger side window and luckily that window doesn't bind anymore. It takes about 4 seconds to go down and 5-6 seconds to go up with the engine not running. Success!
I then went over to the driver side and attempted the same thing. No success. Even after cleaning it thoroughly and re-lubricating with the grease, the window still binds in the 2 exact same spot. I'm suspecting it's my window regulator which is causing the problem. I doubt there is anymore gunked up grease in the guide rails. I guess tomorrow or next week I'll try to take the regulator out and test it to see if it's functioning properly or binding in the same spot.
I then went over to the driver side and attempted the same thing. No success
. Even after cleaning it thoroughly and re-lubricating with the grease, the window still binds in the 2 exact same spot. I'm suspecting it's my window regulator which is causing the problem. I doubt there is anymore gunked up grease in the guide rails. I guess tomorrow or next week I'll try to take the regulator out and test it to see if it's functioning properly or binding in the same spot.
Update:
So today I spent around 6 hours fixing the issue with the driver side window regulator. I pulled the regulator out and tested it on it's own. I noticed it was slowing down/binding in multiple locations of the regulator rail therefore telling me the issue isn't with the other rails. I marked where it was binding, disassembled the assembly, and cleaned everything. I then started sanding and grinding the rail down between the marked area. I probably spent 3 hours just grinding/sanding. I got it to the point that with some grease the guide would slide down from top to bottom on it's own weight. I reinstalled everything back into the car and tested it out. With the car running both my windows now take 4 seconds to go down and about 5 seconds to go up. The driver side is probably .15 sec slower since I notice there is still a very slight slow down half way up but it's not bad enough to warrant taking everything apart.
So now I'm done with this winter project. I can't wait for the weather to get better but probably not any time soon consider we got another snow storm coming tonight.... :\
So today I spent around 6 hours fixing the issue with the driver side window regulator. I pulled the regulator out and tested it on it's own. I noticed it was slowing down/binding in multiple locations of the regulator rail therefore telling me the issue isn't with the other rails. I marked where it was binding, disassembled the assembly, and cleaned everything. I then started sanding and grinding the rail down between the marked area. I probably spent 3 hours just grinding/sanding. I got it to the point that with some grease the guide would slide down from top to bottom on it's own weight. I reinstalled everything back into the car and tested it out. With the car running both my windows now take 4 seconds to go down and about 5 seconds to go up. The driver side is probably .15 sec slower since I notice there is still a very slight slow down half way up but it's not bad enough to warrant taking everything apart.
So now I'm done with this winter project.
I can't wait for the weather to get better but probably not any time soon consider we got another snow storm coming tonight.... :\
I was actually thinking about this last night. 91-92 NSX come with no passenger side air bags. If someone wanted to change to airbagless wheel couldnt they change to seatbelts that were designed to work without the air bags as well. What im implying is i think you could buy a 91 passenger side seatbelt unit and install it on the driver side if you want a little more safety by changing out the wheel. Do you guys disagree with that assumption?
I would think that seat belts designed with airbags in mind would pull you back into the seat so your face is in the correct range for the bag to hit you. The seatbelts without airbags would have some give so as to reduce the force on your chest over the short period of time during impact. It seems like an obvious design choice for a seatbelt with no bag but maybe I'm wrong.. Now I see I was wrong about my assumption with the NSX. The belts are the same, look below.
Looking at this diagram I thought there was actually a difference between passenger and driver side. After looking deeper into it, it appears the model on the left is for 93+ NSXs and the other model is for 91-92. When I first saw this I thought one was driver side and the other was passenger. My mistake guys.
Looking at this diagram I thought there was actually a difference between passenger and driver side. After looking deeper into it, it appears the model on the left is for 93+ NSXs and the other model is for 91-92. When I first saw this I thought one was driver side and the other was passenger. My mistake guys.
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There are so many variables, you can't just make assumptions that the engineers can do this or do that with the belt to hold you back or let you move further forward. Imagine what a variance there is in the way people sit. Some sit with the steering wheel practically in their stomach. Some sit waaaaay back.
I honestly feel that people think there is more science in this than there actually is.
I honestly feel that people think there is more science in this than there actually is.
Dave in response to your last post I would say the difference could be tiny for example having a belt with a little more elasticity wouldn't change much but probably reduce force on the occupant by a good amount. Either way as we can see they are the same so no point in looking into that anymore.
So I've came up with a plan that would get me near NA1 Type-R weight. It'll probably cost me an arm and a leg down the road but this will take time so I'm okay with that.
If you guys see anything that I might of incorrectly stated please let me know so I can update. I tried to get my figures from all the information posted here on prime. 2700lbs with a slightly modded engine will be nice. This still has audio and A/C and nearly full interior too.
So I've came up with a plan that would get me near NA1 Type-R weight. It'll probably cost me an arm and a leg down the road but this will take time so I'm okay with that.
If you guys see anything that I might of incorrectly stated please let me know so I can update. I tried to get my figures from all the information posted here on prime. 2700lbs with a slightly modded engine will be nice. This still has audio and A/C and nearly full interior too
.
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Sneak preview of what is going on in a couple of hours . Sound comparison video will be up some time tonight.
. Sound comparison video will be up some time tonight.
:eagerness:
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