Modulator Reservoir Filter Has Dried Paste Like Substance....

[AcuraNSX]

Hello,

I did a search for our ABS System, Modulator Reservoir Filter and could not find an obvious answer to this. Maybe some owners could chime in and in particular 1991 model year owners. So, I went to replace my ABS fluid and found that the reservoir has a filter in that has a strange pasty coating on the inside bottom of the the filter. It looks like a tan colored thick, sticky paste, that I started to remove thinking, this shouldn't be in the filter....but then I said, what if it was meant to be there to act as some sort of medium for larger debris to stick to. So, I stopped removing it and decided to look on prime. Any thoughts?

 

[Bram]

Well, there should not be any crap in your ABS system, only brake fluid.

Bram

 

[nsxspdfreak]

Should be clear fluid. I've never seen brake fluid, no matter how old, look like that. I recommend that you back-flush the system to remove the old and contaminated fluid.

 

[AcuraNSX]

Thanks Bram and NSXspeedfreak! I thought it was strange to have this in my filter! I started scraping it away, but I was like this is too uniform in coverage over the bottom, so I thought to ask before erroneously removing it all. Leaves me wondering what the hell the previous owner drove through! lol

 

[Honcho]

The reservoir should be clean and only have brake fluid. If it has been a long time since the fluid was changed, dirt particles would have settled on the bottom of the reservoir, creating the sludge you see. I recommend cleaning the reservoir and building the kit to exercise each solenoid annually. It's about 10 bucks worth of wires and switches, but it will extend the life of your ABS system.

 

[AcuraNSX]

The reservoir should be clean and only have brake fluid. If it has been a long time since the fluid was changed, dirt particles would have settled on the bottom of the reservoir, creating the sludge you see. I recommend cleaning the reservoir and building the kit to exercise each solenoid annually. It's about 10 bucks worth of wires and switches, but it will extend the life of your ABS system.

Yes, I built the kit this morning, I will be exercising them tomorrow morning. I shall post what happens. I am hoping it is just the solenoid(s) sticking. I hope my pressure switch or accumulator hasn't gone bad.

 

[AcuraNSX]

So, I cleaned out the modulator reservoir filter and used danoland's solenoid exercising harness. Nothing! I tried it on two different solenoids and no foaming brake fluid, nothing, no clicking of solenoids, just nothing. I checked my harness for continuity on the negative battery cable to termination, and continuity from positive battery cable to termination with switch "on". When switch was turned off, obviously no continuity. Tested the voltage coming through harness, 12.38V with switch in "on" position and 1.3mV when switch was "off", so power is flowing to my termination points when properly hooked up to the red and black wires on the solenoid pins. I would have tested the other two, but I was like why even bother if nothing is happening on the first two solenoids I tested. So, I figure maybe my accumulator doesn't have any built up fluid pressure, so I ran the pump for 30 seconds and then tried the solenoid exercise again, and NOTHING again. Any ideas why I am not getting any foaming brake fluid?

My symptoms were, the common, no ABS light when I turn on car, other than the first second upon turning on ignition. Start driving, hit 6mph, pump activates (clanging sound), doesn't stop until 120 seconds have lapsed, ABS light illuminates. I don't have a T bleeder tool, as no one will sell or let me borrow one, so I am hesitant on bleeding the system with 300psi brake fluid.....I read on some posts, prime members used a hose and a square socket to open and drain pressure. But, it still doesn't answer the question why the solenoids are not doing anything once I activate them with 12V. Any thoughts anyonne?

 

[goldNSX]

Looks like that system wasn't serviced for a long time.

Someone who didn't serviced it for 10+ years described me the condition of the brake fluid like icecream to some extend and some part.

 

[Honcho]

So, I cleaned out the modulator reservoir filter and used danoland's solenoid exercising harness. Nothing! I tried it on two different solenoids and no foaming brake fluid, nothing, no clicking of solenoids, just nothing. I checked my harness for continuity on the negative battery cable to termination, and continuity from positive battery cable to termination with switch "on". When switch was turned off, obviously no continuity. Tested the voltage coming through harness, 12.38V with switch in "on" position and 1.3mV when switch was "off", so power is flowing to my termination points when properly hooked up to the red and black wires on the solenoid pins. I would have tested the other two, but I was like why even bother if nothing is happening on the first two solenoids I tested. So, I figure maybe my accumulator doesn't have any built up fluid pressure, so I ran the pump for 30 seconds and then tried the solenoid exercise again, and NOTHING again. Any ideas why I am not getting any foaming brake fluid?

My symptoms were, the common, no ABS light when I turn on car, other than the first second upon turning on ignition. Start driving, hit 6mph, pump activates (clanging sound), doesn't stop until 120 seconds have lapsed, ABS light illuminates. I don't have a T bleeder tool, as no one will sell or let me borrow one, so I am hesitant on bleeding the system with 300psi brake fluid.....I read on some posts, prime members used a hose and a square socket to open and drain pressure. But, it still doesn't answer the question why the solenoids are not doing anything once I activate them with 12V. Any thoughts anyonne?

I would test the other 2 solenoids. If you can get one loose it will depressurize the system without needing the T-wrench. You might have to disassemble the solenoids to get them unstuck. Warren has a great writeup and O-ring kit for that. I would sell you my working ABS system, but I need it for another year before I upgrade to the 2000+ system.