Quick update. The suspension is ready and shipping today. Can't wait!
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Motion Control Suspension (MCS) for NSX
- Thread starter mwagner10702
- Start date
You are going to love it!
Here are some unsolicited ride height numbers as a starting point. Measurements are from the bottom of the wheel lip to the edge of the fender. 17" / 18" wheels.
Front: 22 1/4"
Rear 23 1/2"
This won't win you any stance-boy contests, however on the track I find it nicely balanced. Lots of travel for street use and no fender liner rubbing.
Not the greatest picture, but you get the idea.
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Quick update. The suspension is ready and shipping today. Can't wait!
This setup is looking pretty good! Not a fan of remote reservoirs for my rarely tracked NSX.
Are the MCS 1 way valving digressive or linear ?
I have the Nitron R3 now and the valving is not to my liking, debating if I should order a new set of MCS vs ship it out for a revalving.
MCS will valve the piston any way you want. My valving is custom- basically a copy of [MENTION=32537]mwagner10702[/MENTION]'s with a few small tweaks based on my driving style. AR Motorsports has a lot of track testing time on Mark's suspension and convinced me to go with that valving versus the NSX-R NA2.
The 1WNR is more than track capable, so I wouldn't worry about that. It's a top shelf suspension. It will be much less expensive to re-valve your Nitrons than get the MCS.
The vendor requested that I not publish the curves, since they are proprietary and have a lot of R&D time/money into them. However, I will l say that they are less digressive than the NSX-R NA2 with additional low-speed tuning/adjustments. Overall damping force is softer than the R.
I got my set today. Can wait to get them installed!
I want to try! If you ever make it down to Sta Barbara with your NSX lmk. We can do swapsies!I got my set today. Can wait to get them installed!
Lol sounds good! Same if you’re ever up in Sonoma
mwagner10702 said:
Hit a snag in the install. Front main spring is contacting the upper control arm, preventing me from aligning the lower bolt sleeve. Are your front shock helper springs on the top or bottom?
On the front shock the helper spring is on the bottom. On the rear shock the helper spring is on the top.
Sent you a PM.
Did you sort it out? Spring length issue? Ride height issue?
Just make sure your helper spring is below the main spring on the front damper (see my picture above) and you'll be fine. Has nothing to do with spring length or ride height.
Based on the picture you posted of your new dampers, the fronts are not setup correctly. You will need to disassemble them and install the helper spring below the main spring.
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I'm actually pretty sure they put the front springs on the rear shocks. See below. I've been trying to fit a much longer rear shock into the front control arms! It would also explain why the front control arm has to be nearly all the way down to fit. I'm confirming with AR.
By moving the spring perches all the way to the top of the shock, I did get it to fit into place LOL.
Noted fitting the longer bodies up front, hopefully that is the solution!
It’s really a function of the spring perch position, eh? The perch up front needs to be above the control arm. It shouldn’t matter where the helper spring is, the pair of springs will compress the same amount no matter if the helper is on the bottom or top, so will not affect perch position
It’s really a function of the spring perch position, eh? The perch up front needs to be above the control arm. It shouldn’t matter where the helper spring is, the pair of springs will compress the same amount no matter if the helper is on the bottom or top, so will not affect perch position
You guys just need a shorter front spring. KW, JRZ, Moton, they all have this same issue. With that height of spring, you're NEVER going to need or experience that much droop travel unless you're jumping your shit at the Baja 1000
EDIT: If you want to keep that much spring (looks like an 8") you can probably compress that arm with a jack and get the arm to articulate to clear. However at full drop the UCA will bind on the spring or the perch.
EDIT: If you want to keep that much spring (looks like an 8") you can probably compress that arm with a jack and get the arm to articulate to clear. However at full drop the UCA will bind on the spring or the perch.
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Paul,
What spring length are you using? I am using 6" Swift springs front and 7" springs in the rear. Part numbers are:
Front: Z60-152-080
Rear: Z60-178-060
You will still need the helper spring below the main spring on the front assembly.
Mark
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AR just confirmed that the longer shock tubes are for the fronts. That means how I have it set up is correct. Martin said to flip the helpers if clearance is a problem, but obviously at this perch setting it's not. I may still flip them though. These springs are 178mm or 7" IIRC.
Like RYU said, once the arm is under load it will never articulate this far and, unless I jump the car like Dukes of Hazzard, the perch will never contact the control arm.
Like RYU said, once the arm is under load it will never articulate this far and, unless I jump the car like Dukes of Hazzard, the perch will never contact the control arm.
FWIW, I got mine installed and had the same problem with the perches. The front dampers could be at least 1” shorter and use a 6” spring instead of the 7” spring. with the dimensions of the dampers and springs, the perch needs to be pretty low at ride height. The front dampers are 3/4” longer than my old teins, the teins use a 6” spring. If I were doing this again, I would ask for shorter front dampers and a shorter spring.
In any case, to install the fronts, I raised the perches way up, then had to droop the crap out of the suspension to get the bottom bolt in. Then to adjust height, I had to compress the suspension so the helper was 90% compressed, then lower the perches.
I had to do it in several passes cause if the helper is too compressed, I couldn’t spin the perches, and I could only go a couple turns before the perch hit the control arm.
Note that the rears were perfect length. They went in in 30 min and I had no issue with them. The extra length on the front made them take at least an extra half a day between the install and the process of jacking the wheel up a little at a time to adjust.
The height difference. They are aligned-ish on the bottom bolt. I ended up 18 turns lower this on the MCS dampers to be at the same ride height as the teins.
In yay
Crazy droop, ready for dakar. I did end up adjusting so there was less droop… less droop cause the perch interferes with the control arm, lol
Adjusting the fronts was a total pain, perch was against the control arm the whole time. Compress the suspension, go a couple turns down, compress again, a couple turns down, etc...
Here's the perch at roughly ride height. I ended up like 8-9 turns lower than this, which would move the perches down, but damper body up in relation to the control arm. No issues when driving tho
In any case, to install the fronts, I raised the perches way up, then had to droop the crap out of the suspension to get the bottom bolt in. Then to adjust height, I had to compress the suspension so the helper was 90% compressed, then lower the perches.
I had to do it in several passes cause if the helper is too compressed, I couldn’t spin the perches, and I could only go a couple turns before the perch hit the control arm.
Note that the rears were perfect length. They went in in 30 min and I had no issue with them. The extra length on the front made them take at least an extra half a day between the install and the process of jacking the wheel up a little at a time to adjust.
The height difference. They are aligned-ish on the bottom bolt. I ended up 18 turns lower this on the MCS dampers to be at the same ride height as the teins.
In yay
Crazy droop, ready for dakar. I did end up adjusting so there was less droop… less droop cause the perch interferes with the control arm, lol
Adjusting the fronts was a total pain, perch was against the control arm the whole time. Compress the suspension, go a couple turns down, compress again, a couple turns down, etc...
Here's the perch at roughly ride height. I ended up like 8-9 turns lower than this, which would move the perches down, but damper body up in relation to the control arm. No issues when driving tho
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I'm going to order 6" fronts. You just did what I was contemplating doing for the front install and yeah...I'd rather not. lol 
If I can get to front NSX-R factory height with 6" springs, then I'm calling it good.
If I can get to front NSX-R factory height with 6" springs, then I'm calling it good.
I thought about giving up and ordering 6" springs, but I was in too deep and wanted to drive it. I'll probably end up with a cup kit eventually, so will need shorter springs then anyway. Man I really wish the front dampers were a little shorter. With the shorter springs, you'll be near the top of the bodies and will still have unnecessarily crazy droop. At full droop with the perches set to ride height, the perches still may be near the control arms, making them hard to install.
The dampers are so long that on install you either need to push the suspension down extra far or compress the damper. I was unable to compress the damper while dealing with the bottom bolt. I had to lay on the rotors with my chest while positioning the shock body and getting the bottom bolt in with my hands, I literally have bruises on my chest from the rotors. If they were a little shorter, they would have been a 30 min install, easy.
The dampers are so long that on install you either need to push the suspension down extra far or compress the damper. I was unable to compress the damper while dealing with the bottom bolt. I had to lay on the rotors with my chest while positioning the shock body and getting the bottom bolt in with my hands, I literally have bruises on my chest from the rotors. If they were a little shorter, they would have been a 30 min install, easy.
I was about to mention the cups. If you plan on running them you ought to provision for them now. I'm running a 6" on my JRZs which are measured to take up full droop (like I have to pry the lower control arm down to bolt in the lower eye). If it was me, i'd take the longest damper I could get. It's nice to have the extra fluid volume. It's easy to replace the collars. Look how chewed up my two fronts mine are! haha
I didn’t even think about the extra fluid volume. Would 1/2” of less body make a significant difference? I did basically need to pry the lower control arm down to get the bottom bolt in. So maybe these are a similar length.
Good to know on the cups. Your cups are like 20-25mm compressed? with a 25mm cup and 6” springs it’d be in the same perch position as my 7” spring. Though I wonder if I could have the spring directly up against the cups instead of the spring hats that are on there now adding 1/2” of height
The curse, already thinking about changing stuff and I have 20 miles on them lol. They do feel good!
Good to know on the cups. Your cups are like 20-25mm compressed? with a 25mm cup and 6” springs it’d be in the same perch position as my 7” spring. Though I wonder if I could have the spring directly up against the cups instead of the spring hats that are on there now adding 1/2” of height
The curse, already thinking about changing stuff and I have 20 miles on them lol. They do feel good!
I ordered 6" springs. I'll document the fitment once they're installed.
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