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My first oil change on a '91..Questions...

Joined
12 August 2005
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3,329
Location
Seattle, WA
So I'm about to do my first oil change on my 1991....It just rolled 67k miles.
Now, I'm not really sure what kind of oil the previous owner has been putting in. Can I put in a full synthetic like mobil 1?? Should I worry about the seals leaking?? Should I play it safe and do a blend or just plain old dynosaur juice?
It's 5qrts, right? I think I saw that somewhere.

Thanks in advance for the advice...
 
Eric, it takes 5.4 quarts, and make sure you have a fresh new crush washer and torque it with factory torque recommedation. (refer to FAQ, instrustion from Danoland, or your owner's manual.)

I had used Mobil 1 10w-30 for the last two years/24000 miles. Using same oil on Street / track.

BTW, you are using the long filter, right? I heard the short one would be fine too. FYI
 
Ahhh yes...the crush washer. I remember reading about that as well. Not sure what you mean about long or short filter. I was planning on just going to shucks and picking up whatever filter is supposed to go on the car from the little book.
As for the crush washer...well...I guess I'll just have to find one somewhere.
5.4 quarts...got it.
 
bodypainter said:
Am I the only one who thinks 15 years and 67,000 miles is too long to wait before the first oil change? ;)

Eric just bought his car for couple months. I'm sure the oil is still kind of fresh when he purchased it.

I was planning on just going to shucks and picking up whatever filter is supposed to go on the car from the little book.
As for the crush washer...well...I guess I'll just have to find one somewhere.

No!!!! Don't pick up those Fram filter for your nsx. The nice one: K&N doesn't make one for nsx either. Go to your local Acura Dealership and get the Honda nsx filter and most likely they will give you the washers for free.

the long one is the OEM Honda filter specifically for the nsx. The short ones are those for the lengend (not sure which yr. do a search), that most would not want to use due to its smaller size; but Andrie, our famous veteran racer over here reportedly using them on his race nsx for no issues. I believed he had accusump and also bigger oil pan, so that makes a difference.

On the volume of oil part, if you were going to use the short filter, you might have to guess a little. the 5.4 recommendation is for the long OEM filter and you had completely drained any drop of oil. I usually fill up the oil filter before I screwed it back in, then start emptying the rest of 5 qrt. Then I'll just add to the top mark of the dip stick. Oh and btw, Walmart should be the cheapest place to get Mobil 1 and they have the big 5 qt. bottle, team with a funnel, it will be the fastest and cleanest way. (you may stored the used oil nicely in that empty bottle and bring it back to your local recycle place)
 
DrVolk, I would also recommend stopping by your local acura dealer and picking up a oem oil filter. When I purchased my filters from acura of lynnwood, they would give me the crush washers for free.

Also if i remember correctly, you should torque the oil nut to 32lbs.
 
hehe you should get Griot's Oil Extractor... its the hottness!
 
Ok...I guess I'll be making a trip to the Acura dealership. Why did they decide to use a "crush" washer in this car? Does it somehow seal better than a normal oil pan plug? Seems like just another $$ thing. I hope Acura of Bellevue is cool with their crush washers....

The only reason I'm asking about mobil one is because I've heard stories of older engines leaking oil when changing to synthetic since it's "thinner" and older seals tend to be a little more forgiving if synthetic hasn't be used for the life of the car.
 
I don't know if Bellevue of acura will give you free washers but Lynnwood acura definitely does.

I heard the opposite that once a engine has more mileage, you're supposed to switch to synthetic? :confused:
 
Yeah definitely go to the dealership. I bought several when I was there and also got the crush washer, costs like 25 cents or something. I also always get the long oil filter, just don't like the look of the little short one.

It cracks me up when someone buys a NSX and then makes a comment about the price of a crush washer.....changing demographic strikes again.

I change my oil 2 times oer year even though that means about once every 2500 miles, give or take. Cheapest insurance you can buy for your engine. Oh, I use Mobil 1.
 
Honda uses these crush washers in every car they make. so nsx is not an exception.
and Yeah, it's not expensive.

The Synthetic oil is not thinner, just have better viscousity (spelling), put it that way if the engine is in as shape that the synthetic oil will break it, it's close to worthless.

I have been through that, Eric, I know how you felt. Do a search and you will find more than you needed to know.
 
lol I know that the crush washers are super cheap, the thing that cracks me up was I stopped by acura of seattle once because I had a couple air bubbles form in my 3m and they tried charging me a $1 for a crush washer
 
I got my NSX with approx. 60K miles and had no idea what oil the previous owners used. I've changed oil twice since then with Mobil-1 full synthetic 10W/30. Works great.
 
On my next Oil change. (which is due soon). I'm going to use Lubro Moly Antifriction MS-02 oil.. It did wonders for my 93 BMW M50 motor.. Took out all the valve sound and it practically refreshed the engine to like new smoothness.

It is no regular oil.. it is a dull dark grey oil.. not translucent at all. I believe it is half synthenic.

http://www.lubromoly.com/web/lmhomeus.nsf/pages/index_produkte

Click Catalogue >> oils >> Engine Oils >> Part sythnetic.
 
Cairo94507 said:
It cracks me up when someone buys a NSX and then makes a comment about the price of a crush washer.....changing demographic strikes again.

Price has nothing to do with it, I just don't like spending money on something that doesn't need to be bought. Just not sure why Acura uses a "crush washer" when every other car I've ever owned doesn't. Is there some magic with this thing? I had a Integra GSR back in the day and I don't remember a crush washer at all....maybe I was having the dealership change the oil or something.

Just news to me...glad I have this board here or I'd never even know about the damn thing.
:smile:
 
DrVolkl, a crush washer is just a soft metal washer which is used to form a seal between the drain plug and the threaded opening in the oil pan. Almost all cars have such a washer. By crushing, it forms a perfect seal between what could be uneven surfaces of the drain plug and the drain hole.

It's just a washer man :biggrin:

Hope this helps you.

Warren
 
whwnsx said:
Almost all cars have such a washer. By crushing, it forms a perfect seal between what could be uneven surfaces of the drain plug and the drain hole.

It's just a washer man :biggrin:

Hope this helps you.

Warren

Again, I understand the principle of the washer...but these statements about "almost all cars have these".... that just blows me away. I've been changing my own oil for about 15 years and I have yet to come across one. So when did everything change? Or have I simply been working on the "minority" of cars that don't have one?
 
I don't remember changing the oil on any car I've owned that didn't have a crush washer. Now I may not have always replaced them with new ones (or at all), but they were always there to begin with.
 
meh! the crush washer is nonsense! :eek:

just another scam to extort another 2$ from you pockets.

You dont need a new crush washer to form the perfect seal. The drain bolt alone will do it and if you already have the old crush washer, that will seal time after time till the end of time. Dont be a slave to "hear say" :rolleyes: try it out for yourself and end this "need" new crusher non sense.


10 cars so far, never changed the crush washer on one of them including my 2 NSX. Just turn it tight. The oil usually stops after the plug goes in for the first turn, the tread design is made to hold off the oil.

Same applies for trannys, never had one leak on me yet.

Short filter work. Just dont put it on too tight. I hate machanics that tighten the filter too much. When the seals match to the seat, turn it 1 rotation and that's all you need.

make sure the prvious seal is on the old filter when you take it off or you got the new seal sitting on the old seal and you get an instant oil leak and loss of oil pressure and end of engine.

other then that, pretty easy job. If you dont have a lift you can do it by jacking up the passenger rear jack point, work lose the bolt, put a low profile pan under the car, drop the jack so that the car is almost sitting on the oil pan so you can drain out as much oil as you can. Jack up the car again, put back the plug, and get the filter.

You dont need to take off the wheels that also rubish. Should take less then 10 minutes unless you come up against a tight filter.

If the filter is really stuck on and you cant get a oil filter clamp to work around it, you can also tap a screw driver right though the filter then use that extra leverage to twist it off.

good luck.
 
All imports comes from the factory with crush washers on the oil drain plug. It is recommended to be replaced every service. If you choose to reuse it, that is your choice. I love to replace oil pans anyway! :biggrin:
 
I've been reusing the washer on my Integra for several years with no problem. I just can't bring myself to pay the $1 that my local dealership charges! If they were $.25... ok, I could live with that. But $1 is just a crime. Anyway, as I understand it, the purpose of the washer isn't to seal to prevent leaks, it's to keep pressure on the drain bolt to keep it from backing out. Or am I totally off?

Jeff
 
I payed the $.45 and got the washer...what was funny is that the long filter costs $18. Now...just have to get me some mobil 1 tomorrow and I'll be set.
 
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